“Many books have been written about Burgundy over the years, but none currently is as useful and comprehensive a reference as the new second edition of “Inside Burgundy” (Berry Bros. & Rudd Press, $90), by Jasper Morris.
The book includes all one might expect in a guide: detailed characterizations of Burgundy’s appellations, leading vineyards and producers, all enhanced by clear, detailed maps, along with examinations of the region’s history, weather and geology, grapes, viticulture and production and a look at how its wine trade is organized. Mr. Morris also addresses issues of terroir and style, which are particularly appropriate to Burgundy.
Even in the decade or so since the first edition was published, much in Burgundy has changed. Mr. Morris, a retired wine merchant who lives in the region, has extensively updated and expanded the book. Readers appalled by the skyrocketing price of Burgundy will be happy to see additional information on the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais, where they might still find affordable wines.
Mr. Morris also addresses the fallout of climate change, the rise of aligoté (possibly a byproduct of climate change) and how the rising price of land in Burgundy affects the small family estates, which have formed much of the region’s image.
At nearly 800 pages, this is a big book. What it does not contain are detailed tasting notes*, a wise editorial decision that permits more important issues to be explored. While Mr. Morris briefly addresses the issue of premature oxidation, which has plagued white Burgundies off and on over the last 25 years, I wish he had dedicated a little more space to clarifying exactly where things now stand. Nonetheless, if you love Burgundy, this is an essential volume.”
*Detailed tasting notes available on insideburgundy.com via subscription
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