From The Wine Conversation with Sarah Kemp (wine-conversation.com)

Jasper Morris MW, author of “Inside Burgundy” and the brilliant website www.insideburgundy.com, explores the Côte Chalonnaise. The vineyards start where the Côte d’Or ends, with the valley of the River Dheune, just south of Santenay. Its terroir is clay and limestone, but the landscape feels different, as there is no one escarpment, and the land is more wooded, creating a more varied terrain.

The main grapes are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Aligoté, but there is also a small amount of Gamay and Pinot Blanc. There are five villages, Bouzeron, Rully, Mercurey, Givry, Montagny and two sub-classes of Bourgone: Bourgogne-Côte Chalonnaise and Bourgogne-Côte de Couchois.

Bouzeron has plenty of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay on its east-facing slope, but on its west-facing slope you find Aligoté – as Jasper explains, “Aligoté has been Bouzeron’s calling card,” and in 1998 they decided to create an appellation just for Bourzeron and Aligoté. It most renowned producers are Domaine A&P de Villaine, Maison Chanzy and Domaine Champs de Themis.

Rully makes sparkling wine and some good Aligoté, but is mainly known for its Chardonnay. Jasper explains, “The wines are not particularly long-lasting but they don’t need to be, because they are so lovely.” The producers to look out for are P&M Jacqueson, Domaine de la Folie, while Jasper picks out Vincent Dureuil-Janthial as the biggest star.

Domaine Faiveley put Mercurey on the map, and Mercurey remains the most famous of the villages. This is red-wine territory, with the wines being more structured and more tannic, though as Jasper notes, this is changing a little with new Pinot Noir plant material. Château de Chamiray is a major player in the area and a name to look for is Domaine Bruno Lorenzon.

Givry is similar to Mercurey, in that it is red-wine country, with only 15% whites produced. Producers to seek out include Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, which Jasper highly recommends, and Domaine Joblot, Domaine Thénard, François Lupp and his cousins, Domaine Ragot and Domaine Laurent Mouton.

Montagny is a white-wine-only appellation. Jasper describes its taste as different from other Burgundian whites, more like “crushed oyster shells like Chablis, though not so iodine.” His names to look out for include Cave de Buxy, the largest producer in the Côte Chalonnaise, and the negociant Louis Latour has considerable holdings, the star producer is Domaine Stéphane Aladame, but there is a raft of new producers including Domaine Laurent Cognard, Domaine Feuillat-Juillot, Domaine Berthenet.

You can also find Jasper’s guest appearances on other Podcast and Video channels we work closely with:

• The Wine Conversation
• 67 Pall Mall TV

From The Wine Conversation with Sarah Kemp (wine-conversation.com)

Jasper Morris MW, author of “Inside Burgundy” and www.insideburgundy.com, takes a deep dive into the appellation of Morey-St-Denis, which is situated in the Côte de Nuits between the villages of Chambolle-Musigny in the south and Gevrey-Chambertin to the north.

He explains how its terroir is similar to Gevrey-Chambertin, with its underlay of limestone which stretches through to Chambolle-Musigny. The main grape is Pinot Noir, but there is a little white wine produced, Chardonnay and Aligoté. Morey-St-Denis is the only village in the Côte d’Or where Aligoté is permitted. Jasper reveals the role that Domaine Ponsot had in allowing the grape to be included in the appellation rules.

What does it taste like? “I like to think of it as a slightly more savoury, slightly more wilder type of wine….if Morey wasn’t quite so small, I think it would be more famous.”

Jasper discusses the famous grands crus; Clos des Lambrays, Clos de la Roche, Clos St Denis and Clos de Tart. The Morey premiers crus span the commune on the lower slopes behind the grands crus, but another small band lies just above the grands crus. The village wines are on the lower slopes, where there is more clay.

Producers Jasper recommends looking out for include Clos des Lambrays, Clos de Tart, Domaine Arlaud, Domaine Castagnier, Domaine Dujac, Domaine Robert Groffier, Domaine Hubert Liginier, Virgile-Lignier-Michelot, Domaine Perrot-Minot, Domaine Taupenot-Merme, Cecile Tremblay and Domaine Ponsot. His tip for one to watch is Domaine Stéphane Magnien.

Jasper’s obscure fact – the vignerons of Morey-St-Denis are known as the loups de Morey (the wolves of Morey).

You can also find Jasper’s guest appearances on other Podcast/Video channels we work closely with:

• The Wine Conversation
• 67 Pall Mall TV

From The Wine Conversation with Sarah Kemp (wine-conversation.com)

“Summary: Jasper Morris MW, author of “Inside Burgundy” and www.insideburgundy.com, takes a deep dive into Chablis premiers crus. He explains that Chablis is based in northern Burgundy in the Yonne département. The river Serein cuts through the limestone plateau, which consists of Portlandian limestone, which is very hard, and is found on slopes that have not eroded much, and Kimmeridgian limestone, which formed when the sea receded, and is full of marine fossils. The best vineyards, Jasper believes, are on Kimmeridgian limestone, which gives Chablis its very particular taste.

The premiers crus appellation was formed after World War II; today there are 41 different premiers crus classified, but you only ever see a few very regularly on the label – the others are subdivisions of the better-known names.

The one big divide, in terms of style and taste, depends on which bank of the river Serein you are on, Jasper points out. “On the left bank, the west side of the river and of Chablis itself, you have rolling hills, the first roll at the southern end gives you a premier cru called Montmains, and the second one gives you Vaillons. Both have plenty of subdivisions, and here you get really steely wines, white fruit style, lots of this marine element, and these are the sorts of wines which are classic with oysters. You also have newer names like Vau de Vey and Côte de Léchet.”

Jasper continues “On the east side, the vineyards are south-west facing, which means they get the afternoon sun, which means they are richer in style, yellow fruit. Here you find Mont de Milieu, Montée de Tonnere, Vaulorent and Fourchaume. These are slightly fleshier wines, which you might want with a river fish or even white meat.”

The style of course depends on how the wines are made as well as the terroir, and Jasper discusses the different use of oak and stainless steel. His favourite premiers crus include Vaucoupin in Chichée, for its steely white fruit character, all the different parts of Vaillons, and, for a richer wine, Montée de Tonerre.

The two most famous wine domaines are Raveneau and Dauvissat, both of whom are expensive on the secondary market, but Jasper advises that, if you’re dining in Chablis, you will find them at reasonable percentage mark-ups. In addition, you have William Fèvre and Samuel Billaud.

Up-and-coming producers he recommends include Roland Lavantureux in the north of the region, Clement Lavallée, discovered earlier this year, who he believes shows real promise, Thomas Ventoura, Fabien of Jean Dauvissat &Fils and Edouard and Eleni Vocoret.

Almost all of Chablis shows good value, he says, “but I do believe that the premiers crus are the sweet spot for quality/price.” Vintages to look out for: 2022 is going to be a first-class vintage, 2020 is a fine year but shows the heat a tiny bit more, 2019 if you want a more voluptuous style, 2017 lovely now and 2014 continues to get better.

You can also find Jasper’s guest appearances on other Podcast/Video channels we work closely with:

• The Wine Conversation
• 67 Pall Mall TV

Bringing Burgundy closer to you with every episode!
Daily updates on our Instagram: @jaspermorris.insideburgundy

From The Wine Conversation (wine-conversation.com)

“Episode Summary: In our latest 10-Minute Masterclass, Jasper Morris MW, author of “Inside Burgundy,” takes a look at the appellation of Volnay, which is situated in the Côte de Beaune, a couple of villages south of Beaune itself. Historically, Jasper explains, Volnay has greater significance than most Côte d’Or villages, as the Dukes of Burgundy built a summer palace there – many of the vineyards have the title “Duc” in their name.

Volnay’s terroir is a mix of limestone and clay, but Jasper explains that Volnay is known for its more “active limestone, which means it comes through and gets into the vines itself and the wines, making them lighter, fresher and more perfumed.” There are more Premier Cru Volnay vineyard – 115 hectares, than Village Volnay, which has 98 hectares. The appellation runs from Pommard in the north to the south of Meursault, where the reds are known as Volnay Santenots.

Some of the most well-known vineyards are around the village: Clos des Ducs, Clos de la Caves des Ducs, Clos du Château des Ducs, and at the southern end above the main road, the D973, you have Clos des Chênes, and Taille Pieds, whilst below is one of the greatest, Cailleret (of which, someone in the 17th century said, “If you don’t have vines in Cailleret, then you don’t know what Volnay is.”)

There are not many producers in the village of Volnay itself, though some have vineyards there, such as Domaine Lafon. The name you will come across most will be the Rossignol family, in one form or another. Blue-chip names found there include Marquis d’Angerville, Domaine Michel Lafarge, Domaine de la Pousse d’Or, and Domaine De Montille. Jasper’s tip for up-and-coming producers are Thomas Bouley and his cousin Kieran Bouley, as well as Georges Glantenay, and Bernard and Thierry Glantenay. “The one I like a lot and is excellent value and under the radar, is Domaine Buffet,” Jasper concludes.

Volnay produces wines slightly lighter in colour, but “it’s the perfume that makes Volnay so special,” Jasper notes. He advises, “one of the things I find particularly interesting is when the wines are young Volnay seems nice, or very nice, in the hands of a great practitioner, but if you happen to have a bottle of 30 to 40 years of age and you drink it in a mix of really top wines from the Côte de Nuits, Grands Crus from famous villages, the Volnay really holds up, it is more exciting and hedonistic with age.”

Vintages to look out for: “2017 is absolutely delicious now,” he says. Jasper also suggests 2007,2010 and 2011 for being very attractive now. He also reveals “the years ending in nine are particularly good in Volnay.”

From The Wine Conversation (wine-conversation.com)

“Episode Summary:-

Jasper Morris MW, author of “Inside Burgundy” and the award-winning website www.insideburgundy.com, takes a deep dive into Gevrey-Chambertin in our latest episode of 10-Minute Masterclass. Gevrey-Chambertin is at the northern end of the Côte de Nuits, on the edge of the city of Dijon. Jasper notes that there are 20 well-known producers, but he estimates there are 50 overall. The appellation covers 400 hectares, or 1,000 acres of vineyards, and consists of nine grands crus. In the past, Gevrey-Chambertin was known for its deeply coloured, powerful and structured red wines, but today the flavours are much more nuanced.

The appellation is affected by the alluvial soil deposits left along an ancient river course, and it is the only village which has a sizeable number of vineyards east of the main road, as the alluvial soil is found there. Jasper explains that those who are at the southern end of the village and the eastern bit before the road tend to make wines which are red-fruited, with fresh strawberry aromatics that become quite savoury, but at the northern end the wines are slightly more concentrated, slightly deeper in colour. Of the nine grands crus, which are found on the upper and middle slopes, Chambertin is the most famous and has an amazing ageing ability.

His personal favourites include Latricières-Chambertin at the southern end, and at the northern end Ruchottes-Chambertin, which he finds is the lightest most delicate and elegant, and its neighbour Mazis-Chambertin, which is noted for its structure. The most famous of the premier cru vineyards is Clos St-Jacques, which goes for the same price as the grands crus. Jasper recommends Les Cazetiers, which has a fresh mineral feel to it, and at the southern end, Aux Combottes, which is surrounded by grands crus. The grape is solely Pinot Noir and the most famous name in the appellation is Domaine Armand Rousseau, which has the biggest holdings. Other names to look out for include two branches of the Trapet family, Domaine Trapet and Domaine Rossignol-Trapet, both biodynamic, Domaine Duroché, Domaine Fourrier, Domaine Bruno Clair, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Domaine Sylvie-Esmonin, Domaine Henri Magnien, and Domaine Henri Rebourseau, which has received an investment from Martin Bouygues of Château Montrose.

Jasper’s obscure fact is that Gevrey-Chambertin was the first village to hyphenate its best vineyard when in 1847 it changed its name from Gevrey-en-Montagne to Gevrey-Chambertin, which was its most famous vineyard.”

You can also find Jasper’s guest appearances on other Podcast/Video channels we work closely with:

• The Wine Conversation
• 67 Pall Mall TV

Bringing Burgundy closer to you with every episode!

Subscribe to my website and get full access to my scores, tasting notes, detailed write-ups on producers and much more.
Daily updates on our Instagram: @jaspermorris.insideburgundy

From The Wine Conversation (wine-conversation.com)

“Episode Summary:-

Jasper Morris explores the Mâconnais in our latest 10-Minute Masterclass. It is situated 50 miles to the south of Beaune and 50 miles north of Lyon. There are a thousand producers growing grapes, but a lot of their grapes go to the Cave Cooperatives. The soil is a clay-limestone mix, as is true for the Côte d’Or. Jasper explains that if it is called Mâcon it is almost certain to be chardonnay, and it certainly is if it is called Vire-Clessé or Pouilly-Fuissé. There is a little Pinot Noir in the region, which would be bottled as Bourgogne Rouge, and if Gamay is planted it will be called Mâcon with the village name attached.

Regarding the taste of Mâcon, Jasper explains that there are three styles. Mâcon bought from a supermarket is bottled in considerable volumes, usually fermented in stainless steel, and is fresh, cheerful, mineral-driven, gulping wine, which can be very satisfying. The artisanal producers tend to age in barrel and the wines show a little more substance, and clearly have a more southern feel than the wines of the Côte Chalonnaise. “Pouilly-Fuissé, you can get up to 14 percent alcohol without it feeling too heavy, as they all have a thread of acidity underneath,” he notes. And then, Viré-Clessé can be more full-bodied, everything there is on a mini-plateau with several streams. You can also have a little residual sugar, a more late-harvest style that’s unique in Burgundy.

The big negociants have their own holdings or good relationships with the growers. In Pouilly-Fuissé, Jasper recommends looking out for Domaine Ferret, owned by the House of Jadot but independently run, Domaine Barraud, Château de Beauregard, Domaine Jacques Saumaize, Domaine Saumaize-Michelin, and Olivier Merlin, whilst over In Pouilly-Vinzelles, it’s the Bret Brothers. In Viré-Clessé, Domaine Thevenet, Domaine André Bonhomme and Domaine Jean-Marie Chaland. For Mâcon and Mâcon-Villages, the co-operatives and small growers, as well as the interlopers from the north who wish to make chardonnay at more affordable prices, such as Domaine Leflaive and Domaine Lafon.

Jasper’s insider tip is to look for the premier crus in Pouilly-Fuissé which are already established, and the about-to-be-established premier crus in Pouilly-Vinzelles and Pouilly-Loché. “Amazing for the appellation,” Jasper notes. His obscure fact? The village in the Mâconnais called Chardonnay is not named after the grape. It was recorded in the 17th century, when the grapes grown there were red.”

Episode Summary:-

Jasper Morris MW, one of the world’s leading experts on Burgundy, talks to Sarah Kemp about the region and the new edition of his award-winning book, Inside Burgundy, which has just been published. The first edition was published over ten years ago and Jasper discusses the updated book and the aspects of Burgundy which have been affected by climate change.

In the new edition, he has gone into more detail on lesser-known areas, such as Monthélie, Fixin, and the Maconnais, and tells Sarah he regrets not being able to cover Beaujolais, but, he notes, “after 800 pages, a book has to be bound by hand.” The new edition is 150 pages longer than the first, and describes more than 1,200 vineyards and 300 wine villages, as well as appraising 700 domaines. He discusses how climate change has affected the vintages and discloses how the producers have responded to new conditions. Jasper explains how the changing patterns of airflow and wind has meant that the polar air currents are much weaker and are sliding down, and how there are now fewer southwestern winds, but more north and south, which are both dry. “People have to manage extreme weather events, plus a generally hot and dryer climate,” he says.

Jasper also talks about the different measures the producers are taking to deal with the new climate conditions, including electric cables (which are already used in Chablis, but need large water supplies), mobile wind turbines and smudge pots, though, he adds, some producers are reluctant to use them, as they are petro-chemical based.

The rise of Aligoté is something that Jasper tells Sarah he is in favour of, as it is properly Burgundian, and takes longer to ripen, which brings freshness and acidity. He believes that canopy management is crucial, and rootstock needs looking at, as some rootstock is failing. He reports that the picking window has changed and producers need to be ready to go earlier than before. “People are going to have to be a lot more intelligent about their picking dates,” he states. The use of whole bunch and partial bunch fermentation is also discussed.

“2014 and 2017 had wider windows for picking because the sugars weren’t galloping, and that’s why those two are amongst my favourite two white Burgundy vintages,” Jasper reveals. He explains he likes early-ripening sites less than before and has found that Pommard “is hitting a wonderful streak of exciting wines.”

Sarah asks him what had surprised him most when writing the second edition. “Aligoté has leapt forward,” he replies. They discuss premature oxidation and Sarah asks if it has gone away. “No, but it nearly has,” he replies.

Jasper then talks about how the different vintages are developing for both reds and whites, which vintages to keep and which to drink, plus his favourites. Finally, the question of value is raised by Sarah and Jasper advises to look at some of the best producers in lesser communes. He also suggests there is true value to be found in Monthélie, Saint-Romain, the Hautes Côtes and the Maconnais.

“It was this frost in 2021 which has made people realise quite

You can also find Jasper’s guest appearances on other Podcast/Video channels we work closely with:

• The Wine Conversation
• 67 Pall Mall TV

Bringing Burgundy closer to you with every episode!
Daily updates on our Instagram: @jaspermorris.insideburgundy