The Wine Conversation – Gevrey-Chambertin with Jasper Morris MW & Sarah Kemp
From The Wine Conversation with Sarah Kemp (wine-conversation.com)
“Episode Summary:-
Jasper Morris MW, author of “Inside Burgundy” and the award-winning website www.insideburgundy.com, takes a deep dive into Gevrey-Chambertin in our latest episode of 10-Minute Masterclass. Gevrey-Chambertin is at the northern end of the Côte de Nuits, on the edge of the city of Dijon. Jasper notes that there are 20 well-known producers, but he estimates there are 50 overall. The appellation covers 400 hectares, or 1,000 acres of vineyards, and consists of nine grands crus. In the past, Gevrey-Chambertin was known for its deeply coloured, powerful and structured red wines, but today the flavours are much more nuanced.
The appellation is affected by the alluvial soil deposits left along an ancient river course, and it is the only village which has a sizeable number of vineyards east of the main road, as the alluvial soil is found there. Jasper explains that those who are at the southern end of the village and the eastern bit before the road tend to make wines which are red-fruited, with fresh strawberry aromatics that become quite savoury, but at the northern end the wines are slightly more concentrated, slightly deeper in colour. Of the nine grands crus, which are found on the upper and middle slopes, Chambertin is the most famous and has an amazing ageing ability.
His personal favourites include Latricières-Chambertin at the southern end, and at the northern end Ruchottes-Chambertin, which he finds is the lightest most delicate and elegant, and its neighbour Mazis-Chambertin, which is noted for its structure. The most famous of the premier cru vineyards is Clos St-Jacques, which goes for the same price as the grands crus. Jasper recommends Les Cazetiers, which has a fresh mineral feel to it, and at the southern end, Aux Combottes, which is surrounded by grands crus. The grape is solely Pinot Noir and the most famous name in the appellation is Domaine Armand Rousseau, which has the biggest holdings. Other names to look out for include two branches of the Trapet family, Domaine Trapet and Domaine Rossignol-Trapet, both biodynamic, Domaine Duroché, Domaine Fourrier, Domaine Bruno Clair, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Domaine Sylvie-Esmonin, Domaine Henri Magnien, and Domaine Henri Rebourseau, which has received an investment from Martin Bouygues of Château Montrose.
Jasper’s obscure fact is that Gevrey-Chambertin was the first village to hyphenate its best vineyard when in 1847 it changed its name from Gevrey-en-Montagne to Gevrey-Chambertin, which was its most famous vineyard.”
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