Starting out with just two hectares in 1990, the Pommiers have now built their domaine up to 13 hectares. The range starts with Petit Chablis, actually two, includes a Chablis La Croix aux Moines as well as a basic Chablis, and goes on to premiers crus Fourchaume, Troesmes and Côte de Léchet. Since 2006 there has also been a really interesting Bourgogne Pinot Noir, grown on a south-facing slope on the way to Auxerre. I have also tasted a bottling of Pinot Gris on its own.

This is one of the few Chablis domaines which is certified organic, and nobody can doubt Denis Pommier’s commitment in the vineyards. In the cellar, the use of wood has been fine-tuned so as to complement the fruit of a particular 1er cru rather than to try to bolster the weight of the wine. Côte de Léchet now typically receives less oak than the other two 1ers crus, so as not to hide the tension.