Nathalie Fèvre, who had originally met her husband Gilles while studying at Dijon, left her job as oenologist at La Chablisienne in 2004 to develop their own domaine in Fontenay-près-Chablis together. Their daughter Julie has joined them from the 2016 vintage. The vineyard work is evidently meticulous, with restricted yields enhancing both the class and the concentration of the wines. Harvesting is by machine for younger vines, by hand for old vines and the top cuvées. My favourite wine here is usually their exceptional Vaulorent, made from vines planted between 1965 and 1972.

Otherwise there is nothing complicated: vinification in stainless steel (except part of Les Preuses) after a fairly extensive débourbage, and relatively early bottling – excepting Preuses again. They have been significantly extending their cellar on the edge of the small village of Fontenay, with a view to a little more barrel ageing. All wines have used DIAM closures since 2019.

The wines of this branch of the family may also be seen under the label of Marcel & Blanche Fèvre. Marcel (1876-1976) was Gilles’ great-grandfather and also brother to Narcisse, who was the late William Fèvre’s grandfather.