While I miss tasting with Michel Niellon (1934-2020) himself in the cramped old stone cellars under his house at the top of the village, it is clear that production is much easier for son-in-law Michel Coutoux to manage in the new facility down in the light industrial zone where several top Chassagne domaines have emigrated. The next generation in the form of nephew Mathieu Bresson and Michel Coutoux’s own daughters is now also in evidence.

The grapes are whole-bunch pressed with minimal settling afterwards, placed in 20-25 per cent new wood across all the appellations, and only racked when the barrels are blended in tank for bottling just before the next harvest.

A small plot of vines has been planted in front of the new winery, but this just has the appellation Bourgogne Blanc. The village Chassagne (white) comes from 10 plots scattered around the village while the red comes from vineyards such as Battaudes and Concis des Champs which should indeed be planted with pinot. The latter is a bit more rustic than the elegant Clos St-Jean rouge.

In white, while noting a very fine Chevalier-Montrachet (the Bâtard-Montrachet is currently out of service after replanting) my favourite remains the beautiful 1er cru Les Chaumées, Clos de la Truffière, from ancient vines.