Lilian Duplessis is now in charge of the domaine which bears his father’s name, though was originally developed by his grandfather. It used to be a great source for back vintages, but now recognition of the quality (and indeed short crops) mean that the domaine has caught up to current vintages. The vineyards are run organically, certified from 2013, with a mix of machine and manual harvesting. Much of the domaine benefits from old vines using massal selection. A few plots date back to Lilian’s grandfather while his father planted widely in the 1960s.

Indigenous yeasts are used for the fermentation which is in tank, followed by 18 months ageing for the 1ers crus, of which 6 will be in wood (by rotation to keep the barrels in use all year round). Lilian buys 10% of new wood each year, including recently some double barrels of 450 litres, and expects to keep his barrels in use for 10 years. Recent developments are a reduction in sulphur levels (ideally none used before racking in May) and a much lighter approach to filtration. Lilian has no plans to switch from using natural cork to close his bottles.

The wines do not always show well in their youth but their innate complexity shows with maturity. I have had some great Duplessis bottles but patience is advised and will pay off.