Historical

The Roulot name in Meursault goes back at least five generations. The man who put it on the map was Guy Roulot, father of Jean-Marc, and husband of Geneviève, grand-daughter of Léon Coche. Guy Roulot sadly died early, and before Jean-Marc was ready to take over (having embarked on a career as a stage and film actor), the wines were made first by Ted Lemon (of Littorai and Burn Cottage fame, in California and New Zealand respectively) and then by Franck Grux (subsequently winemaker for Olivier Leflaive Frères.)

Jean-Marc Roulot has been in charge since 1989, when he decided to stay with the vines rather than to pursue his acting full time. A good choice for wine-lovers as he has since brought a fine domaine into the very top league. Happily, he has been able to maintain some of his acting activities as well, including the two man play Les Luchets and a small role but strong influence in the film Ce qui nous lie (Back to Burgundy in the English version).

Viticulture & Vinification

Jean-Marc is one of the few producers who has managed to move from heavier to purer wines but not lose anything of the potential quality and complexity. Everything is still in place: both the greater pull of fabulous white burgundy and the more detailed intricacies of the subtle differences between one terroir and another.

These are exceptional Meursaults, which show their real class at ten years old. The vineyards have been farmed organically since 1999, with some experiments in biodynamics – all is in place for first-class raw material, and Jean-Marc is not afraid to pick early if the condition of the grapes suggests it. Where the skins of the grapes are healthy, he likes to crush them before pressing, which he finds gives a greener juice which can be obtained with less aggressive pressing, and a better pH.

Having experimented with variable sulphur levels in 2016 according to how each cuvee was progressing, Jean-Marc Roulot has gone back to a slightly more planned regime, but using much less sulphur at the outset than would have been the case in the past. The barrels fulfil their role of aerating the wine, with no more than 20 per cent new wood for village wines and 25-30 per cent for the crus.

Vineyards

There are (from 2011) some new vineyards to play with, notably Meursault Poruzots and the monopole Clos des Bouchères, plus some village land, after the shared acquisition (with Domaine des Comtes Lafon) of Domaine René Manuel.

I am thrilled to drink any of Jean-Marc Roulot’s wines but would single out three in particular. Sadly the most senior of them, Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières, is a relatively rare beast. The plot was purchased by the Roulots in 1976, with vines dating to the 1940s. When Domaines Roulot and Lafon shared the vineyards of Domaine René Manuel between them, Jean-Marc ceded his previous holding of Bouchères to take over instead the monopoly of the Clos des Bouchères. This is a wine which really makes you sit up and take notice.

The Meursault Les Tessons Clos de Mon Plaisir has been renamed Meursault, A Mon Plaisir, Clos du Haut Tesson, to reflect what is written on the stone arch above the vineyard. This is an iconic wine chez Roulot, magisterial in quality given that this is not a premier cru vineyard. It is the most multi-layered of the village wines, with terrific density of flavour, sometimes with a hint of lime blossom, and amazing energy.

In addition to the domaine wines, a handful of wines are made from purchased grapes from prestigious vineyards, labelled as Jean-Marc Roulot: Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Cailleret and grands crus Corton-Charlemagne and Chevalier-Montrachet.