Jean Collet began domaine-bottling in 1954, though his wife’s family – the Costals – could trace their viticultural history back to 1792. Grandson Romain Collet, who joined his parents in 2008, has been responsible for a significant upsurge in quality at this important domaine. 12 hectares (Truffières, Forêts, Butteaux, Sécher and the Grand Crus) are now certified organic. Other vineyards will follow.

The Chablis Les Truffières is a particularly favoured plot, albeit on Portlandian clay rather than Kimmeridgian. The 1ers crus are vinified and aged in a mix of vessels, the program changing from one cru to another but being consistent across the vintages for each wine. Thus Montmains only sees stainless steel, Butteaux is vinified in stainless steel then aged in older wood, while Sécher is made half in earthenware amphora and half in new wood. Barrels predominate for the Grands Crus. There are also some interesting ‘off Broadway’ cuvées, such as a St Bris (from 2018) and Bourgogne Rouge.