This could be one of the great domaines of Meursault, especially with its substantial holding of Les Perrières and the monopoly of the Clos des Perrières, bought by the original Albert Grivault in 1879. He built up an estate of 15 hectares, though he subsequently gave his holding of Meursault Charmes to the Hospices de Beaune. Other vineyards were later sold, including a hectare of Clos de Vougeot in 1931, and today the domaine consists of six hectares across five appellations – perhaps soon to be four, as it has applied to have its hectare of Bourgogne Blanc upgraded to Meursault. Another proposal, to upgrade the Clos des Perrières to grand cru, did not find favour in the village.

Michel Bardet, grandson of Albert Grivault, has been running the domaine since 1980. The whites are bottled just before the next harvest after being matured in 20 per cent new wood for the premiers crus. The red wine is aged in total for 18 months, having been vinified without stems.

While the wines are young it is not that obvious that the Clos des Perrières is significantly superior to the regular Perrières, which has older vines, apart from the greater complexity of flavour with a slight iodine character in the Clos. With age, though, the Clos begins to express its greater majesty.