Formerly owned by the Boisseaux family of Maison Patriarche, the Château de Meursault now belongs to magnate Olivier Halley, as does the Château de Marsannay. Halley has appointed the dynamic Stéphane Follin-Arbelet to manage these properties and the results have been impressive in a short space of time. Having been taking small steps in this direction, the Château went full steam ahead for conversion to organic farming in 2019, with certification in sight. They are also experimenting with cover crops which will reduce the need for ploughing.

The whites hit their stride almost immediately. The range is large and indeed wide but I would single out the Bourgogne Clos du Château, an exceptional village Meursault, Clos des Grands Charrons and the superior bottling from premier cru Les Charmes, Meursault Les Charmes Dessus. I vary from one vintage to another in my preference between Puligny-Montrachet. The Corton Vergennes is young vines (2007) but already very promising.

The reds are progressing, having begun a little bit on the solid side. They are still dense rich and powerful wines: if some more elegance can creep in, then they will start to match the whites in quality.

In 2018 the Château took on a further 8.50ha of vineyards from the late Prince de Mérode: an old vine Ladoix Les Chaillots, Pommard Clos de la Platière and various Aloxe and Corton wines.

The Château de Meursault also hosts the Paulée de Meursault on the Monday after the Hospices de Beaune sale every year, with the cuvérie being cleared of vats and vintage paraphernalia in order to lay tables for lunch for 600 people. The guests wend their way through the extensive subterranean cellars of the château’s outbuildings before settling in to a long afternoon’s conviviality.