What was formerly Maison Bertrand Ambroise based in Premeaux, outside Nuits-St-Georges, has been rebranded by the current generation, Ludivine and François, as Domaine Ambroise Frère et Soeur. The labels at the moment just specify Ambroise, but nowadays 95% of production is from the family’s own vineyards which cover 20ha, mostly in the Côte de Nuits.

The vineyards were certified organic from 2009 until the exceptionally difficult 2016 growing season, and though François Ambroise has gone back to organic cultivation he has not yet reapplied for certification.

Production techniques feature a higher proportion of new oak than most are using these days, and relatively firm extraction techniques for the reds. These are all (bar one cuvée of Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes) destemmed, given a longish cool to cold pre-maceration, and an extended post-fermentation maceration with temperatures maintained. There is a fair amount of punching down, during the fermentation itself and expensing on the vintage continuing thereafter or not.

The young wines thus are both structured and oaky, which is not especially in vogue at the moment. This may not be your domaine – it is not my preferred style – but the wines are well made and if this is the style you are looking for, they will repay keeping.