Rippon, with its beautiful setting overlooking Lake Wãnaka, may be the most photographed vineyard in New Zealand, and one of the most mesmeric in the world. The image above is taken from my bedroom window when staying at the property. Wãnaka means a teaching place in Māori, and courtesy of Nick Mills I certainly was taught a great deal during my brief visit in September 2024, while staying with his mother, Lois Mills on the property.

It was Nick’s father, Rolfe Mills, the third generation on the property, formerly known as Wãnaka Station, which had been purchased by his grandfather Percy Sargood in 1912, who started out on the wine front in 1975 by planting small quantities of everything that could be found, as people said nothing would work, before concentrating more on vinifera varieties from 1982. He saved those vines which gave the best results, and didn’t need too much pushing and pulling around to produce decent grapes: Pinot Noir, Riesling, Osteiner, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer and Gamay – though recently tests have shown the latter to be a clone of Pinot Noir.

The vineyard site

From 2008 two single blocks were separated out, though the rule is that most of each must go back into the principal Rippon wine. All three bottlings bear the subtitle Mature Vine from this vintage.

Tinker’s Field, planted between 1986 and 1989, is north-facing, gets the afternoon sun, and benefits from some wind protection from Ruby Island. The soil is a relatively coarse schistous gravel. In the vintages where we tasted these two vineyards side by side, I tended to find Tinker’s Field the more structured of the two.

Emma’s Block, planted 1991, faces east-north-east and is closer to the lake, on clay lenses and finer schistous gravels missing the afternoon sun. Fruit on the front palate, then a little firmness at the back, not quite so complete across the middle.

Looking through the notes on the wines in the tasting, I see that harvest dates vary between mid-March for the earliest (2018) through to late April (2009). The range is actually petty similar in Burgundy but a month earlier. What is also clear is that there is no problem with ripening the grapes, yet they retain good acidity, with lower pH readings than is the norm in Burgundy. Nick makes the point that the vineyards provide sufficient balance in the grapes that they do not need to make any must adjustments.

Establishing Rippon

Nick had originally set out to do other things, specifically aiming at becoming a ski champion. Ranked No 1 in New Zealand, he appeared to be headed to the 1998 Winter Olympics when a serious knee injury put an end to that dream. Instead, wine came to the fore, with a four-year stint in Burgundy including the CFPPA course at the “Viti” (Lycée Viticole) in Beaune, various internships including eight months at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, and the striking of many friendships with the more outgoing of the younger generation of vignerons.

The Tasting

We began with a refreshing 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, more jasmine than gooseberry in aromatics, clean and pure on the palate, and the Young Vines Pinot from 2023, an intense and quite crunchy, mineral, rendition of darker Pinot fruit, with fair persistence. Then the main event, after which a small vertical of Riesling concluded the day. This went back to 1992 and 1993, both still in fine condition. Other favourites were exquisite 2007 and 2011 Rieslings, a very youthful 2016 and a 2019 Lolo’s Riesling which was fascinating. It had been fermented in barrel and left on the lees, unsulphured. Paler in colour than the regular, with a more phenolic nose, it was clearly more complex and further away from the apple and lime register. Those notes did begin to emerge slowly though. Multilayered on the palate, with the stony side showing through. Very long. Almost a salty lick to finish.

Back to the main course – Pinot Noir. The tasting was very sensibly arranged from oldest to youngest, so that we could see the evolution of the vines, the wines and the production philosophy. What a tour de force! And it threw up some fascinating and unexpected themes.

Firstly, the condition of the oldest wines, now 30+ years old, and made from very young vines. If you want further thoughts on how grapes and wines change character as the vines age, then dial into Levi Dalton’s I’ll Drink to That podcast, #118, for an interview with Nick made in New York immediately after his previous vertical. It includes a fascinating anthropomorphic view by Nick on how the vines develop. These first Rippon Pinots have lasted much better than anybody could have expected at the outset. The 1992 won all sorts of prizes, the first from Central Otago and the first Pinot Noir to win Best New Zealand Red. Interestingly, it clearly outperformed the 1992 Barrel Select wine. 

The wines now developed an inexplicable rhythm of odd and even year alternation, which in retrospect could be traced back to the start of the tasting. Where we had pairs side by side, the even numbered vintage was consistently softer and smoother than the more aquiline odd number. You can see that really clearly in 1991/1992, 1997/1998, 2006/2007, 2010/2011.

In 2008 (the inaugural vintage for the single block vines), 2009, 2015, 2019 (with the addition of Lolo’s Block on its only release to date), 2020 and 2021 we were able to try the Rippon bottling and the two single block wines side by side. Some background on Emma’s and Tinker’s can be found in the Vineyard Site section above.

The Pinots are all made in the same way, in relation to oak regime, proportion of whole bunches and length of cuvaison. They spend 18 months in barrel, followed by a further two years in bottle before release.

Conclusions

The wines are not hedonistic, yet they are full of fruit. It is clear that they can age remarkably well. I have included suggested drinking dates from 2008 onwards. Earlier vintages are mostly fully mature, with the notes indicating where there may be further potential.

They speak of Rippon, not the New World, nor the Southern Hemisphere, nor indeed New Zealand, nor even necessarily of Central Otago. Wãnaka, I think so, Rippon certainly. The wines have precision, and structure, reflect their individual sites and the changing vintages. They require a little work from you the drinker – us, the drinkers – but that effort will most certainly be repaid. 

So which is better, then, Emma’s Block or Tinker’s Field? That is going to depend on your palate. I sensed in the room (we were a dozen or more tasting) that there was slightly more love for Emma’s over Tinker’s and at the time my preference was a little bit the other way round. Reading through my notes while writing this report I am not quite so sure. Emma’s Block frequently has the more attractive fruit, especially while the wines are younger. Tinker’s Field has just a little more structure, which you can prefer or otherwise, but also frequently just a little more persistence on the palate. Whichever your choice, I never felt at any point that the Rippon bottling suffered from the extraction of barrels to make up the Single Vineyard wines. 

Tasting Notes

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2021 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
92

2021, Rippon Pinot Noir

A tiny crop, difficult to manage and with covid period staffing issues to boot. Not yet released. A lush, super-ripe cherry, followed by schistous tannins. It will be interesting to see how this marries up, its backwardness justifying the relatively late release regime. A good long aftertaste. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Sep 2024.

2021 Rippon Emma's Block Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
94

2021, Rippon Emma's Block Pinot Noir

A fresh light purple. The bouquet is immediately seductive, with a lush darker red fruit, suggesting that the wine will be gorgeous to drink already. The palate corrects us, as we should expect from Rippon, by adding in a firm raft of tannins – though the fruit sweeps over the top of them to carry on to a luxuriant finish with ripe raspberry and some black cherries. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Sep 2024.

2021 Rippon Tinker's Field Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
94

2021, Rippon Tinker's Field Pinot Noir

An even ruby purple colour. The bouquet is a little more subdued than Emma’s with some graphite alongside the fruit. Then a huge burst of generous fruit in the middle of the palate, plums, a thick layer of fruit currently covering the structure. An amazing volume of fruit on the aftertaste. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Sep 2024.

2020 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
93

2020, Rippon Pinot Noir

A cooler year, made even more difficult to manage because of covid complications. Yet these are classical Rippon wines. An attractive mid ruby colour. The fruit comes out immediately, suggesting a wine to drink before the 2019. Cherries with a little graphite. There is the beginning of the velvet which this wine will surely show in maturity. It is a real charmer, with a succulence to the fruit which has been managed without losing the shape of the wine and the vineyard. Quite persistent. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Sep 2024.

2020 Rippon Emma's Block Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
94

2020, Rippon Emma's Block Pinot Noir

A very attractive pink purple colour. The bouquet has a sensual and charming fruit, yet with the underlying backbone of classical Rippon. Emma’s Block ability of the fruit to saturate the front of the palate is very evident, but there is plenty to follow through behind, cherries with a little orange zest, medium acidity and refined tannins. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Sep 2024.

2020 Rippon Tinker's Field Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
5
95

2020, Rippon Tinker's Field Pinot Noir

Less sensational than Emma’s Block but just as fine. The cherries are a little more reserved and concentrated through the middle of the mouth. Some acidity, but especially the tannic framework is driving this wine. Leave Tinker’s Field for longer. The persistence puts this in a separate class. Drink from 2028-2036. Tasted Sep 2024.

2019 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
5
95

2019, Rippon Pinot Noir

A high yielding vintage after the late 2018 rains. A lovely summer succeeded in ripened the grapes though. An attractive mid ruby, a sense of balance in both colour and nose. Elegance is masking intensity. It feels like a much younger version of the 2006, because of the innate sense of harmony. The intensity builds magically on the palate without ever becoming monolithic. Good acidity and refined though certainly present tannins. I predict a spectacular future! Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted Sep 2024.

2019 Rippon Lolo's Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
94

2019, Rippon Lolo's Pinot Noir

Lolo’s block, Lolo being how Nick refers to his mother Lois, sits between her house and the Cellar Door and was planted in 2000 – this is the only vintage declared to date. A youthful crimson. Good glycerol legs. Plenty of mixed berry fruit on the nose. A surge of vivid and vibrant dark strawberry fruit across the palate, the front like Emma’s and the structure at the back a little closer to Tinker’s Field. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted Sep 2024.

2019 Rippon Emma's Block Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
5
96

2019, Rippon Emma's Block Pinot Noir

Quite a light crimson ruby. The nose is more restrained than usual for Emma’s Block, some cherry, but not yet really giving. Very intense on the palate, linear, very far from being ready, showing a few more tannins than usual in the structure. Drink from 2028-2038. Tasted Sep 2024.

2019 Rippon Tinker's Field Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
5
95

2019, Rippon Tinker's Field Pinot Noir

A similar light crimson ruby. Curiously, it is easier to pick the fruit here than with Emma’s Block. It is remarkably fine, alpine strawberry with a little fine raspberry, everything being hidden in the background, superb tensile strength. The structure has a finesse missing in, say, 2015. Drink from 2028-2038. Tasted Sep 2024.

2018 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
91

2018, Rippon Pinot Noir

The earliest harvest ever at Rippon, after rain in March caused an explosion in the ripening process. Picked from 15th March at 23 brix and 3.1pH. A fresh deep ruby colour, with very evident power to the nose, possibly at the expense of elegance. This was a very hot summer. A little leathery note is indicative of tannins. A full sweet ripe raspberry and peony profile, plus boiled cherries on the palate. Brawny and lush yet with Rippon tannins behind. A little graphite as well. If all goes well, the 2018 will settle down into a complex wine in due course. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Sep 2024.

2017 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
92

2017, Rippon Pinot Noir

A tiny vintage, picked in the 3rd week of April at 22 brix and 3.08 pH. A clear pure ruby. The bouquet shows the precision of high-class Rippon. There is a sweetness and weight to the fruit which is quite exciting, energetic raspberry, an attractive thread of acidity and refined tannins. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Sep 2024.

2016 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
91

2016, Rippon Pinot Noir

No great density of colour, and one of the softer style bouquets. You have to go searching for it a little bit. Fresh cherry, a little strawberry, not quite complete through to the back of the palate, lighter on tannins and acidity. Retasting after the 2017, and again later I can see the structure in full throttle. In fact the tannins are a little on the firm side. But give it time. The fruit was there at harvest and early on in bottle, Nick notes, while agreeing that it is a bit subdued today. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Sep 2024.

2015 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
91

2015, Rippon Pinot Noir

An even mid ruby. Not much bouquet at first, then some cherry and strawberry. Pleasant fruit pervades the palate, not the most intrusive and then a wealth of succulent cherry to finish. Few tannins, and less structure than many vintages of Rippon. Drink from 2022-2027. Tasted Sep 2024.

2015 Rippon Emma's Block Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
92

2015, Rippon Emma's Block Pinot Noir

A pretty translucent lighter ruby colour. The bouquet is all about the fruit, primary more than complex, a cheerful raspberry. A little more weight on the palate with the cherries coming to the fore, in a slightly sweet and sour format. Drink from 2022-2027. Tasted Sep 2024.

2015 Rippon Tinker's Field Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
92

2015, Rippon Tinker's Field Pinot Noir

Mid ruby red. Even Tinker’s Field in 2015 seems more fruit driven than briary on the nose. Quite an intensity here, fresh acidity, good tannins make for a chewier finish. Having to reassess this. The muscle is all there, at the moment slightly divorced from the fruit, so a conservative score at this stage. It could yet meld together into a wine deserving a higher rating. Drink from 2024-2030. Tasted Sep 2024.

2013 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
92

2013, Rippon Pinot Noir

Picked during the third week of April. A youthful ruby, very promising, with more fruit weight on the nose but less floral than the 2012. More structure on the palate, built around tannins more than acidity, with fair length. No signs of emerging from the chrysalis. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted Sep 2024.

2012 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
94

2012, Rippon Pinot Noir

This vintage represents 100 years of the family on the property, and 30 years since the first pinot planting. A warm vintage. Pale crimson to ruby. A light but fine nose, showing less ripe but very appealing fruit and a little whole bunch pepper. In fact, the perfume becomes an absolute delight, both fresh and dried roses. Very harmonious on the palate, and persistent, not the most muscled but a sheer delight in its elegant style. Few tannins, a light acidity and persistent. Drink from 2022-2028. Tasted Sep 2024.

2011 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
92

2011, Rippon Pinot Noir

Picked early, at the end of March. Back to a more typical mid crimson colour after the much deeper 2010. The bouquet is a little backward, perhaps not as fresh as my favourites. Attractive raspberry fruit emerges behind, with fair length. Retasted later on its own, it had a better chance to shine without the much richer 2010 alongside. Drink from 2020-2025. Tasted Sep 2024.

2010 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
5
95

2010, Rippon Pinot Noir

A ripe vintage, picked from 2nd April, reaching 24 brix plus, (14% in bottle), yet still with good acidity at 3.12 pH. A much deeper and more youthful ruby colour than any of its predecessors. Thick glycerol legs, representing the vintage rather than anything intentional. Monolithic on the nose, with a little leathery touch suggestive of tannins to follow. Perhaps a hint of brassica. Powerful, rich, rather unformed dark red fruit on the nose, a suggestion of chocolate, firm acidity. Somewhat in the style of a 2005 red Burgundy, hugely promising but still not ready! Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Sep 2024.

2009 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
93

2009, Rippon Pinot Noir

A cooler year, picked from the 4th week of April, 13% alcohol and low pH. A relatively pale crimson. The bouquet is gentle, with some floral attributes, showing a proportion of whole bunch fermentation. This is very elegant, less powerful perhaps than 2006 and 2007, but with a beautiful sense of harmony, fragrant and persistent. Drinking well now. Drink from 2020-2027. Tasted Sep 2024.

2009 Rippon Emma's Block Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
94

2009, Rippon Emma's Block Pinot Noir

Medium deep crimson. The bouquet took a little coaxing, but then the charm of the fruit really emerges. Nonetheless the taut and precise style of the odd numbered vintages shows through on the palate. There is still plenty in reserve here. Drink from 2024-2029. Tasted Sep 2024.

2009 Rippon Tinker's Field Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
93

2009, Rippon Tinker's Field Pinot Noir

Similar in colour, with a little more complexity on the nose, alpine strawberries, some signs of whole bunch, especially on the palate. Leaner but longer than Emma’s, with good acidity to finish. Drink from 2024-2029. Tasted Sep 2024.

2008 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
92

2008, Rippon Pinot Noir

Picked from the 2nd week of April, which has been the Rippon norm. 2008 was a very warm vintage, the hottest until 2018. It was also very generous but they handled the crop well, with crop thinning. A pale to mid crimson with lighter rim. Some elegance, albeit in a softer idiom. Red berries with a little orange zest, then firmer behind. Not quite the intensity of 2006 and 2007, but harmonious and persistent. Drinking very well now. Drink from 2020-2027. Tasted Sep 2024.

2008 Rippon Emma's Block Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
92

2008, Rippon Emma's Block Pinot Noir

A little fuller in colour than the Mature Vines, though again with a lighter rim. A firm deep raspberry fruit shows from the outset. The intensity is immediately apparent on the palate, plus a little menthol from the oak. One wonders if the extraction of the single vineyards might have down played the regular bottling, though Nick is keen to state that they did their best to safeguard against this. Emma’s Block comes across as quite saline when retasted after Tinker’s Field. Drink from 2024-2030. Tasted Sep 2024.

2008 Rippon Tinker's Field Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
93

2008, Rippon Tinker's Field Pinot Noir

Perhaps a fraction lighter than Emma’s Block in colour. The nose is more fruit forward, raspberry and strawberry together with a briary underlay. This wine comes across as the most structured on the palate, albeit with perfectly integrated tannins, and the longest finish. A slight, and pleasing, chocolate note at the finish. Drink from 2022-2030. Tasted Sep 2024.

2007 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
93

2007, Rippon Pinot Noir

A full and invigorating colour, similar to the 2006. Not quite so harmonious, but with added tension. Perhaps an extra level of density, and perhaps the first wine where I feel that extra ageing could be a benefit. The acidity is a touch more pronounced than the 2006, so not quite the same degree of sweet spot, at least at this stage, though there is still time for the 2007 to improve. Tasted Sep 2024.

2006 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
5
94

2006, Rippon Pinot Noir

A vigorous bright red crimson colour, with nose to match. Deliciously perfumed, the palate in full harmony, the full panoply of red cherry, raspberry and strawberry fruit, the structure perfectly integrated. Tasting this wine, I feel that Nick Mills’ take on Rippon is reaching harmony, all the way through to the back of the palate. The 2006 should have enough life for at least another five years. Tasted Sep 2024.

2005 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
92

2005, Rippon Pinot Noir

Another cold vintage. A full and even crimson colour. This is tense, brisk and very youthful. Some sour cherries in the fruit mix, a fruit profile which suggests that ripening was a little more difficult. Perhaps a little blood orange. Plenty of life left. Tasted Sep 2024.

2004 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
92

2004, Rippon Pinot Noir

The first vintage under DIAM. A cold vintage. Evolving with a paler rim. Ripe fleshy strawberries on the nose, middleweight, softer in fruit style than some of the wines, so fractionally less precision, but still a very pleasing glass of maturing pinot with good length. Tasted Sep 2024.

2003 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
5
94

2003, Rippon Pinot Noir

A cooler vintage. A clean, vigorous, garnet to crimson colour, with both generosity and precision on the nose. Bright ripe fresh red fruit, still some tannins on the palate, while the acidity is well folded in. Roses and peonies join the fruit, this is a complex and impressive wine. Rippon is starting to come of age, and Nick Mills shows he is ready to push a little further. Tasted Sep 2024.

2000 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
93

2000, Rippon Pinot Noir

One of the more evolved colours, with a certain amount of depth. There is a light dusting from the cork. There is plenty of energy though on the palate, the 2000 Rippon is still a vigorous wine with the fruit transcending both tannin and acidity. Full, generous, and commanding. Cherries join the mixed red berries at the finish. Nick could see from this vintage that Rippon pinot could use an extra six months in wood. Tasted Sep 2024.

1998 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
91

1998, Rippon Pinot Noir

A mature garnet, not quite as clear in colour as the 1997. The fruit is a little less fresh on the palate and the menthol is once again present at the back. In comparison with 1997, the 1998 Rippon pinot has greater depth of fruit but a little less clarity. Tasted Sep 2024.

1997 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
91

1997, Rippon Pinot Noir

A light garnet colour, mature but still bright. The bouquet is gentle but suggests underlying energy, despite the maturity. Quite mentholated, fresh acidity, some alpine strawberries and brisk red cherries. Pleasing, if not quite as complete as 1992 or 1993. Tasted Sep 2024.

1995 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
87

1995, Rippon Pinot Noir

A cool vintage, affected by the eruption of the Philippines volcano, Pinatubo, in August 1994. The palest colour to date, relatively evolved. The nose has not completely faded, but is softer and lighter. Chaptalised? A few strawberries on the palate but not the fresh energy of most wines to date. Tasted Sep 2024.

1993 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
92

1993, Rippon Pinot Noir

Cooler again. Still bright in colour, with some sediment. A smoky note to the bouquet, quite complex. The beetroot has been cooked and thus softened, while the berry fruit takes the upper hand. Good acidity, with fresh fruit growing on the palate, raspberry with a fresh cherry wash, a few tannins at the finish still, alongside the typical acidity of this site, which starts to become more prominent with time in the glass. Tasted Sep 2024.

1992 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
5
94

1992, Rippon Pinot Noir

A cooler vintage. The beginning of architecture in the wine. Pale garnet colour. Deliciously perfumed, a little riper fruit than in 1991 judging by the nose. Plenty of class to make you keep wanting to go back for another sniff. A little strawberry, rather graceful fruit, then a tannin or two behind, but lively pinpricks of alpine strawberries follow through on the palate. Overall, a good fruit-tannin-acid balance, a wine that is still very much with us today. Tasted Sep 2024.

1992 Rippon Barrel Selection Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
90

1992, Rippon Barrel Selection Pinot Noir

A separate ferment from the start, rather than being a selection of the best barrels from the regular wine. Though the colour has held up well, crimson with a light tawny rim, there is a light oxidative note on the nose. Possibly a little dust from the cork. A greater fruit concentration but the cork dust is holding it back. Slightly higher acidity showing of these two wines. Rudi Bauer, who made these wines, also had a clear preference for the ‘regular’ bottling. Tasted Sep 2024.

1991 Rippon Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
88

1991, Rippon Pinot Noir

A warmer vintage. Lighter garnet. Not so much vegetal, but a little bit of beetroot and capsicum. Still elegant, however, with a fresh red berry fruit showing through beneath. The tannins have subsided, the acidity is still present, rather good length. After a few minutes, this develops more of a tomato character and begins to dry. Drink up. Tasted Sep 2024.

1991 Rippon Barrel Selection Pinot Noir Sep 2024 Red
91

1991, Rippon Barrel Selection Pinot Noir

Made in Bordeaux barrels with slim staves, and bottled in a flute bottle for visual attention. Very similar in colour, perhaps more even across the glass. Less of the beetroot, more fruit based. Vestigial cherries, then developing quite a rich mid palate, the oak has done its job of enhancing the wine rather than fighting with it. Lightly mentholated at the back, this is still a real pleasure to drink and nicely persistent. Tasted Sep 2024.

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