This report covers wines that I tasted at various different times between March 2024 and January 2025. Some came during the Grands Jours de Bourgogne, then the following month I made visits to several key domaines, in most cases covering the 2022 vintage which had recently been bottled, or were just about to be. In October I added the 2023s from Domaine Belleville and in London in January 2025 I was able to add a few more 2023s from domaines showing their wines in London during the annual Burgundy week.
The region progresses. I have in the past regretted the lack of a real locomotive to drive the region, but there is now a feeling of a greater community of effort, along with some new names. I particularly welcome the arrival of Aline Beauné in Montagny, though am equally sad about the imminent retirement of Alain Hasard.
| Domaine Aladame | Montagny | 2022 |
| Aline Beauné | Montagny | 2022 |
| Domaine Belleville | Rully | 2023 |
| Domaine Berthenet | Montagny | 2022 |
| Domaine Michel Briday | Rully | 2022 |
| Domaine du Cellier aux Moines | Givry | 2022 |
| Maison Chanzy | Bouzeron | 2022 |
| Domaine Cognard | Montagny | 2022 |
| Château de Chamilly | Mercurey | 2022 |
| Château de Chamirey | Mercurey | 2022 |
| Vincent Charton | Mercurey | 2023 |
| Alain and Raphael Corcia | Mercurey | 2022 |
| Château de Dracy | Couchois | 2022 |
| A & A Devillard | Mercurey | 2022 |
| Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Rully | 2022 |
| Domaine de la Ferté | Givry | 2022 |
| Domaine de la Folie | Rully | 2023, 2022 |
| Alain Hasard, Domaine les Champs de L’abbaye | Rully | 2023 |
| Domaine P & M Jacqueson | Rully | 2022 |
| Domaine François Lumpp | Givry | 2022 |
| Domaine MIA | Mercurey | 2022 |
| Domaine de la Monette | Mercurey | 2023 |
| Domaine Mouton | Givry | 2022 |
| Domaine Ninot | Rully | 2023 |
| Domaine Baron Thénard | Givry | 2022 |
| Domaine Ragot | Givry | 2022 |
| Albert Sounit | Rully | 2022 |
| Domaine de Suremain | Mercurey | 2022 |
| Domaine A & P de Villaine | Bouzeron | 2022, 2021 |
Domaine Stéphane Aladame
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Stéphane Aladame has decided to reduce his output after the 2022 vintage. The Gouges family have created a new company which will manage the vineyards and take part of the crop to vinify themselves – their 2023 Montagny was included in the Côte de Nuits report. Stéphane has shares in this new venture, and will retain a part of the crop for his own vinification and bottling. The wines below were tasted at the Grands Jours de Bourgogne.
White
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Chardonnay Léonie et Solange, Stéphane Aladame | Mar 2024 | White | 85 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Chardonnay Léonie et Solange, Stéphane AladameNamed for Stéphane’s daughters. Half has been made in tank and half in barrel. Mid lemon with a green tinge. The nose is a little confused, slightly toasty. A little heavy. Drink from 2024-2025. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Les Platières 1er Cru, Stéphane Aladame | Mar 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Les Platières 1er Cru, Stéphane AladameVinified separately for the first time for a long time – I think Stéphane made some vintages in the early 2000s. Pale with a green touch. Fresher than the Bourgogne with a light touch of crushed oyster shells, some tension here. Drink from 2024-2027. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Les Vignes Derrière 1er Cru, Stéphane Aladame | Mar 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Les Vignes Derrière 1er Cru, Stéphane AladameClean and clear in colour, with fresh white fruit, a medium-bodied Montagny. The crystalline finish in fact extends further than Les Platières, giving the Vignes Derrieres the edge. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Les Coères 1er Cru, Domaine Stéphane Aladame | Mar 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Les Coères 1er Cru, Domaine Stéphane AladameLes Coères is made all in barrels, but with no new wood. Just a little fuller than Vignes Derrière, still on the white fruit, a crunchier texture with a bit of wholemeal. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Aline Beauné
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I have been hearing the name Aline Beauné frequently over the last couple of years, often by way of a recommendation from other growers as somebody I should visit. My first opportunity to taste her wines came at the Grands Jours de Bourgogne, but I then made an appointment to visit her in her cellars, where Laurent Cognard was previously based, under the old fortified town walls of Buxy. The plan though is to move to a more efficient winery space in St-Vallerin.
Having worked at the Château de la Crée in Santenay for 15 years, she returned home to Montagny and extracted her vines from the Cave Coopérative in 2018. That vintage yielded 18,000 bottles and she is now up to 35,000 (2023) though she is still selling a little in bulk. The domaine now covers 6ha (including 0.70 of Aligoté) with a further 0.50ha of Le Clous from 2023. The family vines were farmed by conventional lutte raisonnée, though in due course Aline persuaded her parents to start ploughing. She is heading towards being organic and in due course will look at conversion. The purchased fruit from Santenay is already organic. In the cellar, the wines are fermented with natural yeasts, the lees are not stirred and after 12 months in wood, they are racked to tank for three months before bottling. We tasted the 2022 vintage, in bottle. These are wines of exceptional precision and purity.
White
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Aligoté, Aline Beauné | Apr 2024 | White | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Aligoté, Aline BeaunéFrom vines planted in 2000 and 2013. Vinified, then aged in 500 litre older barrels for 12 months, plus a further three in tank. Pale colour with a very sensual bouquet, not as tangy as some but with character and a graceful texture with just a little peppery, almost quinine, bitterness behind. Good length, despite being made from younger vines in heavy clay soils. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Chardonnay, Aline Beauné | Apr 2024 | White | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Aline BeaunéThe Bourgogne Blanc has been made and aged in tank. Attractive enough, this is less sophisticated than her Aligoté, which it abuts. This plot is an enclave within Montagny but not classified. Also younger vines. Pale in colour, with a light fresh nose. Elegant, some warmth to the fruit but attractive. Very faint lemon tint to the colour. All made in tank, keeps the tension, quite considerable weight, ripe apple with a touch of sucrosity so probably a good call not to use wood. Drink from 2024-2026. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny, Aline Beauné | Apr 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny, Aline BeaunéMade in a mix of wood and tank, 55/45%, with 8% new wood in all. This is a blend made from 2.5ha of Les Rougereaux, higher and north facing, along with Les Chazelles – more typically Montagny -which is made apart and then blended in. Pale lemon and lime with a nose of significantly more depth and class than the Bourgogne. Precision once again, fuller bodied, less sucrosity because of the increased fruit density, apples, some pears with a light citrus wash plus the valuable youthful bitterness. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Reconaissance, Aline Beauné | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Reconaissance, Aline BeaunéReconnaissance in this case means gratitude, thanks to Aline’s mother who began with a tiny parcel of 0.35ha next to her grandmother’s house, whence the origin of the family vineyards. The wine is made in a single Alsatian foudre. More lemon than lime in the colour, a little bit racier. Fills the mouth with rounded white fruit, then an excellent line of acidity through the middle, less bitterness, but a complete harmonious wine which has enjoyed its time in foudre. Silky stuff all the way through, with understated elegance and fine length. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Chazelle 1er Cru, Aline Beauné | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Chazelle 1er Cru, Aline BeaunéAline is the only vigneron to produce a 1er Cru Chazelle. She has 0.90ha of 40-50 year old vines, including some of the muscatty chardonnay. 75% has been made in barrel, with 15% new wood overall. Full lemon colour with a steelier nose, some lemon grass and a little fresh greengage, maybe some crushed oyster shells. Excellent grip and a fine suave persistent fruit throughout. Quite classic Montagny. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Santenay Beaurepaire 1er Cru, Aline Beauné | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Santenay Beaurepaire 1er Cru, Aline BeaunéFrom purchased grapes, labelled organic as the producer is certified. 15-year-old vines. The fruit is picked in small cases, all destemmed, made in little wooden tanks, with closed tops. She maintains the temperature post fermentation to polymerise the tannins. Ageing is for 13 months wood, and the wine was bottled in November 2023. A glowing fresh purple. The nose starts a little brutal in a dark nutty fruit style. The fruit comes over as a little fresher in the mouth and holds its oak, one new in the three barrels. Respectable aftertaste, a more solid style overall. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Domaine Belleville
HideIn October I tasted something close to the complete range of Domaine Belleville, covering the 2023 vintage. A range which has been expanded by the addition of some vineyards newly arrived from Domaine Monthelie-Douhairet-Porcheret, whose Volnay, Pommard and Meursault vines have gone to Domaine de la Commaraine, while the Monthelie vineyards are now with Domaine Belleville.
The 2023 harvest began on 6th September. The reds needed a severe sorting, some were not ripe, some were cooking and there was a little acetic rot to remove. So, what would have been the maximum yield finished at 42hl/ha. Winemaker Charles Nebout notes that the Monthelie vineyards produced plenty of nice small bunches, and indeed selections were made of what fruit to keep based on plant material. All the grapes were destemmed, and were vinified over four weeks, including a cool pre-maceration. The whites were also sorted on the table de tri. All were racked to tank at the end of August, with their lees into tank.
White
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| 2023 | Rully St-Jacques, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | White | 88-89 | ||||||||
2023, Rully St-Jacques, Domaine BellevilleMid lemon yellow. Rather a pretty summer fruit nose, enough flesh, more white fruit, good acidity and length. A nice example, and very persistent, racy but with body. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Rully La Crée, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | White | 87-89 | ||||||||
2023, Rully La Crée, Domaine BellevilleThe domaine’s largest plot. They vinify several cuvees then blend them. Pale lemon yellow. There is a touch of sunny honeysuckle on the nose, so less classic than St-Jacques and showing a bit of sucrosity, but a really attractive wine with good acidity. Fresh citrus towards the back. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Rully La Perche, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | White | 88-89 | ||||||||
2023, Rully La Perche, Domaine BellevilleOn the Mercurey side of Rully. Pale in colour with a clean, fresh crystalline white apple fruit. Then more flesh on the palate, there being a richer soil here. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Mercurey Les Villeranges, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | White | 88-90 | ||||||||
2023, Mercurey Les Villeranges, Domaine BellevilleFuller yellow colour, a stony limestone soil, some of the liquorice, much more Mercurey than Rully in delivering weight and flesh, good acidity, the oak shows more, ripe apples, with plenty of stuffing. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Mercurey Champ Ladoy, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | White | 87-89 | ||||||||
2023, Mercurey Champ Ladoy, Domaine BellevilleClear fresh lemon yellow. More white fruit on the nose, without the liquorice. The first white to be picked. Quite ripe but with some charm, maybe a little sucrosity. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Rully 1er Cru la Fosse, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | White | 87-90 | ||||||||
2023, Rully 1er Cru la Fosse, Domaine BellevilleMid lemon yellow. Quite powerful ripe apple nose, a little heavier here, plenty of oak behind, decent acidity and fair length. A good middle of road Rully 1er cru Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Rully Chapitre 1er Cru, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | White | 88-91 | ||||||||
2023, Rully Chapitre 1er Cru, Domaine BellevilleMore limestone here though Chapître is also lower on the slope. Lemon yellow, with a more precise bouquet, a better balance of fruit and sunshine. Attractively nuanced, with a good balance between the stony fruit and the acidity. Persistent. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Rully Les Cloux 1er Cru, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | White | 88-91 | ||||||||
2023, Rully Les Cloux 1er Cru, Domaine BellevilleOne of the fresher colours, with considerable energy to the nose, this has distinctly more orchard fruit energy at the front, then a refined mineral fruit behind. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Rully Rabourcé 1er Cru, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | White | 89-91 | ||||||||
2023, Rully Rabourcé 1er Cru, Domaine BellevilleTheir plot is due south, an attractive mid-lemon yellow, with more flesh and the slight waxy quality which I find here, picked early which makes good sense. Additional length. A fine example, with the requisite length. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Rully La Pucelle 1er Cru, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | White | 89-91 | ||||||||
2023, Rully La Pucelle 1er Cru, Domaine BellevilleA fuller lemon yellow. Richer fruit with a yellow tint, but nicely balanced nonetheless, this is all about the volume of the fruit, though it does have a fresh enough finish, and very long. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Monthelie Combe Danay, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | White | 88-90 | ||||||||
2023, Monthelie Combe Danay, Domaine BellevilleMade from several plots, some needing a bit of replanting. A fresh crisp lemon and lime. The bouquet is relatively crystalline. This is pretty, crisp, with a little youthful bitter lemon and apple, but very nicely made in its style. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Monthelie Les Duresses 1er Cru, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | White | 88-91 | ||||||||
2023, Monthelie Les Duresses 1er Cru, Domaine BellevilleSlightly fuller in colour, with a certain generosity of fruit, even a touch of honeysuckle, juicy and racy, orchard fruit with a touch of steel through the middle, well made. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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Red
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| 2023 | Mercurey Les Villeranges, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | Red | 88-89 | ||||||||
2023, Mercurey Les Villeranges, Domaine BellevilleRich bright purple. Graphite on the nose, then a huge concentration of fresh raspberry, respectable tannins, plenty of wine in this bottle. Medium persistence. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Rully Chaponnière, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | Red | 87-89 | ||||||||
2023, Rully Chaponnière, Domaine BellevilleA redder soil with more earth, a less intense colour and a more perfumed bouquet, last picked so the fruit is fully ripe. An engaging supple fruit which lasts well. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Rully Chapitre 1er Cru, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | Red | 88-90 | ||||||||
2023, Rully Chapitre 1er Cru, Domaine BellevilleMedium deep crimson purple. A firm, structured nose, followed up by dark fruit on the palate, a more muscular style of wine, dark cherry and bilberry, with fair length. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Mercurey Champ Ladoy, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | Red | 89-91 | ||||||||
2023, Mercurey Champ Ladoy, Domaine BellevilleThe vineyard has a very stony and shallow soil, exposed south, needing to be picked early. A bright mid purple, with a lifted bouquet of raspberry and strawberry fruit, an attractive fresher feel. Good tension before the fruit returns behind the tannins, which are not brutal. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Mercurey Champ Roin, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | Red | 87-88 | ||||||||
2023, Mercurey Champ Roin, Domaine BellevilleExposed north, red soil and deeper. More of a high-toned red fruit in the bouquet, quite severe on the palate too, with the tannins not quite so well integrated. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Mercurey Les Perrières, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | Red | 87-89 | ||||||||
2023, Mercurey Les Perrières, Domaine BellevilleA rich full crimson purple. The nose could use a bit of freshening. The darkness of the fruit could be linked to this. Dark strawberry and some blackcurrant. Still, the structure works well and there is plenty of juice. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Mercurey Clos l'Eveque 1er Cru, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | Red | 88-90 | ||||||||
2023, Mercurey Clos l'Eveque 1er Cru, Domaine BellevilleA rich dark purple. There is a wealth of dark berry fruit on the nose, continuing through to the palate, fully ripe, with well-integrated tannins, a certain amount of oak showing, these dark intense berries – very good in its style, bit you will need to like this style. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Santenay Les Hâtes, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | Red | 88-91 | ||||||||
2023, Santenay Les Hâtes, Domaine BellevilleA bright forceful purple. The bouquet is a little fresher, red berry fruit, lots of millerand which you can see in the intensity of the fruit, with a good natural acidity, fine tension and very good length. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Monthelie Les Plantes, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | Red | 88-91 | ||||||||
2023, Monthelie Les Plantes, Domaine BellevilleA holding of 0.35 in three small plots. Crimson in colour, not too intense. A certain elegance on the nose. Very supple on the palate then a hint of earthiness behind, not enough to distract from the rather lovely finish. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Monthelie Les Duresses 1er Cru, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | Red | 90-91 | ||||||||
2023, Monthelie Les Duresses 1er Cru, Domaine BellevilleMid purple. A sense of a significant intensity of fruit, dark raspberry, bilberry, a firm finish, but so much fruit that this will all come together to make an impressive Monthelie, showing Les Duresses in the style.90-92 Drink from 2028-2032. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Monthelie Clos du Meix Garnier, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | Red | 90-91 | ||||||||
2023, Monthelie Clos du Meix Garnier, Domaine BellevilleMade from the heart of the plot, old vines from 1952-1954 with some up to 1972, having sold off the other grapes of less interesting quality. Dense purple, with a fresher more supple fruit, very attractive and quite supple, with good length. Some dark strawberry fruit in the mix. Drink from 2028-2032. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Monthelie Les Longennes, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | Red | NR | ||||||||
2023, Monthelie Les Longennes, Domaine BellevillePicked later than Les Plantes. A deeper purple, slight oxidative note, more structure but that also means drier tannins. Fair length, but I don’t think the sample is a fair representation of the wine. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Monthelie Meix Bataille 1er Cru, Domaine Belleville | Oct 2024 | Red | NR | ||||||||
2023, Monthelie Meix Bataille 1er Cru, Domaine BellevilleA plump ruby purple. The nose needs freshening up. Harder to see today, drier tannins, some length. This is not a representative sample. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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Domaine Berthenet
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François Berthenet came back came back to the family domaine in 2009, and has been vinifying since 2010, entirely on his own since 2016. 80% of the vines are from massal selection, including new plantings. For these he has moved to a 1.40 x 0.80 metre spacing, trained relatively high at 1.60m. The fruiting zone is higher too which is easier to work and escapes from ground heat. He deleafs one side and not all plots, as this necessitates fewer treatments. Picking is entirely by machine, as this can be done by night. Typically in hot vintages the machine picks from 2am to noon. Fermentation is with natural yeasts however.
White
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Aligoté Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Berthenet | Apr 2024 | White | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Aligoté Vieilles Vignes, Domaine BerthenetGrown on granite and clay in Bissey-sous-Cruchaud. There is a light green tint to the colour, then an intriguing bouquet, marshmallow with fresh pear as well, quite full bodied. Just a little confection to finish, but a sound and quite full Aligoté. Drink from 2024-2026. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Pur Sang, Domaine Berthenet | Apr 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Pur Sang, Domaine BerthenetNo sulphur has been added at any point. The vines, on clay-limestone are situated just over the border into Bissey-sous-Cruchaud so do not qualify as Montagny and the wine has been raised in tank. Mid lemon yellow, a pleasing bouquet. Saline but with generous fruity so in no way sharp. Attractively persistent, no natural funkiness. Good wine! Drink from 2024-2025. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Tête de Cuvée, Domaine Berthenet | Apr 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Tête de Cuvée, Domaine BerthenetA blend of four climats, with a less forceful but longer pressing, without the bitterness of the final press juice. All in stainless steel, aiming at an accessible Montagny. The blend marries the top of the slope eg Les Combes and the bottom eg Les Thilles. Pale in colour, floral in style, apple blossom, attractive with a light sucrosity, generous, quite nuanced, a good volume of fruit, indeed as accessible as François was suggesting. 13% Drink from 2024-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Les Macles, Domaine Berthenet | Apr 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Les Macles, Domaine BerthenetLes Macles faces due east at 400m, on a very steep slope, straight on the limestone, though there is adequate water supply, the last plot to be picked. 20% is made in demi-muids. Floral, acacia notes to the nose, with some tension beneath. Dry and precise then a slightly fleshier white fruit finish. Good length once again, and a little salinity. Drink from 2024-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Les Coères 1er Cru, Domaine Berthenet | Apr 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Les Coères 1er Cru, Domaine BerthenetThe vines for the village section of Les Coères are lower down and exposed north. All has been made in wood, none new. Fatter clays here, with a block of limestone in the middle. Quite a complete and generous bouquet, some yellow plums and ripe citrus, but neither hot nor heavy, with a return of white fruit at the back of the palate. Pleasingly generous, with some crème anglaise and brioche to finish, but not exaggerated., A full bodied and sensual Montagny. Drink from 2024-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny St-Morille 1er Cru, Domaine Berthenet | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny St-Morille 1er Cru, Domaine BerthenetFrom a plot of 1 hectare, on blue limestone, exposed pure east, planted in 1984. This is the one 1er Cru which is kept only in stainless steel which helps the precision of this cru. A keeper. Some plums and fresh apricot along with a saline backbone, with a crisper white fruit behind and impressive length, again on the white fruit. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Les Platières 1er Cru, Domaine Berthenet | Apr 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Les Platières 1er Cru, Domaine BerthenetLes Platières is on a mid slope plateau and was planted by François, his father and his grandfather. On a blue marly limestone with thick clay which hardens and splits in drought. 20% has been made in wood, in 228 litre barrels. Middle fresh lemon yellow. This has a latent power without being heady, fresh yellow fruit, a couple of tannins, fair length here also. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Mont-Cuchot 1er Cru, Domaine Berthenet | Apr 2024 | White | 92 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Mont-Cuchot 1er Cru, Domaine BerthenetExcellent exposure, ripens early, classic clay-limestone, for François this is a top site, and I loved the wine too. Winemaking is two-thirds in tank and one third classic barrels, but from 2023 has added a foudre of 12 hl. Pale lemon colour. This has the marvellous coquillage character of top Montagny. This is very classy, building slowly across the palate, with a little bit of oak behind to help build the finish. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Les Perrières 1er Cru, Domaine Berthenet | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Les Perrières 1er Cru, Domaine BerthenetThe domaine has a quarter of the two hectares of Les Perrières, sited above an ancient quarry, lots of fossils, a warmer site. Vinified and aged in demi-muids, with 20% new wood. A little fuller and fleshier, showing the warmth in the wealth of fruit. Fruit more white than yellow though and with quite a structure behind to keep this in play. Worth keeping longer. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru, Domaine Berthenet | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru, Domaine BerthenetMade from 4 climats, with a minimum age of 50 years. 80% is made in barrel (both 228 litre and demi-muid) of which 30% is new, and 20% in tank. A clear bright fresh lemon colour with a green tint behind. The bouquet is both chiselled and concentrated. Something of everything, a bright ripe generous fruit with an excellent backbone of acidity, long and fresh at the finish. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Symphonie 1er Cru, Domaine Berthenet | Apr 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Symphonie 1er Cru, Domaine Berthenet100% new wood in 228 litre barrels, a plot planted in 2004 on chardonnay musqué, by François’s father. The idea is that the wood dims the muscatty character and vice versa, and in fact this works very well, to give a rich and energetic wine, with a little bitterness behind, and good acidity. Not my personal choice, this wine, but well done. Less length perhaps? Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Les Bonneveaux 1er Cru, Domaine Berthenet | Apr 2024 | White | 92 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Les Bonneveaux 1er Cru, Domaine BerthenetFrom 30 year old vines. All is vinified in demi-muids with 20% new wood, then the elevage is continued in tank, still on the lees. Fuller yellow, gracefully oaked with a touch of coconut. This is rather lovely, and will need further ageing in bottle, which they have done since first making this wine in 2015. Bonneveaux offers impeccable balance, class and length. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Domaine Berthenet | Apr 2024 | Red | 85 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Domaine BerthenetMade from two plots of 20+ year old vines on granitic soil in Bissey-sous-Cruchaud. The grapes are destemmed and vinified over two weeks or more, with pumping over not punching down. Half the wine is aged in normal barrels, and half in tank. A clear even crimson, medium depth. The light nose shows some cherry fruit. Not the noblest and a bit fierce at the finish, whether from the pinot plant material or the granite. More pinot has just been replanted in a vineyard called Petit Bonneveau, with the first crop in 2023. Drink from 2024-2026. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Domaine Briday
HideI tasted this small selection from Stéphane Briday during the Grands Jours de Bourgogne. The whites were in bottle after ageing in larger barrels (400 litre size). The reds had not yet been bottled. After 12 months in standard barrels with 15-25% new wood, they are kept for a further six months in tank before bottling.
White
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| 2022 | Bouzeron Cuvée Axelle, Domaine Briday | Mar 2024 | White | 86 | ||||||||
2022, Bouzeron Cuvée Axelle, Domaine BridayOne third has been made in wood, of which one third new. Pale colour, fresh if a bit volatile. More fruit on the palate, greengage, good length. Drink from 2024-2026. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully, Domaine Briday | Mar 2024 | White | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Rully, Domaine BridayTwo thirds of the Rully has been made in barrel with 10% new overall. Fleshy white fruit with more vanilla from the wood than I expected. Decent length though. Drink from 2024-2027. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Grésigny 1er Cru, Domaine Briday | Mar 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Grésigny 1er Cru, Domaine Briday100% wood with 20% new., and there is clearly enough flesh to support this regime, especially as Stéphane Briday chooses how his barrels are toasted in order to maintain tension. I like the weight of this and the oak is well balanced, leaving an attractive Rully Grésigny with good persistence. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Rully Les 4 Vignes, Domaine Briday | Mar 2024 | Red | 85 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Les 4 Vignes, Domaine BridayOld plots from the 1950s and 60s. Not very deep in colour, an austere pinot, with rather a rough finish. Not showing as well as I would have expected today. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully 1er Cru Champs Cloux, Domaine Briday | Mar 2024 | Red | 86 | ||||||||
2022, Rully 1er Cru Champs Cloux, Domaine BridayA slightly fuller purple, with a soft bright and deep pinot, again the rougher finish. These wines will take time to discover their grace. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Les Vaux, Domaine Briday | Mar 2024 | Red | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Les Vaux, Domaine BridayGood bright purple, the nose is a little backward but there is certainly plenty of fruit. Rough tannins once again at the finish. These may well be cleaned up before bottling. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Domaine du Cellier Aux Moines
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I tasted with Guillaume Marko who was just back from New York but managed to be his usual fresh and perky self. The more senior wines, from Les Charmelottes onwards, had only recently been bottled, in January. He reports on the 2022 vintage that there was no mildew, just a touch of oidium, and in the end just enough rain. Excellent wines once again from this leader.
White
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Aligoté Sous Les Roches, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines | Apr 2024 | White | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Aligoté Sous Les Roches, Domaine du Cellier aux MoinesThe decision was taken to wait for a further week after the other grapes before picking. Fresh pale yellow, notably reductive. Fresh pear and lemon juice, yet with adequate flesh, a fine balanced finish. Undergoing organic conversion. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Margotons, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines | Apr 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Margotons, Domaine du Cellier aux MoinesA glowing pale yellow. Also somewhat reductive. Can feel flesh beneath, white fruit, perhaps a future nuttiness, a little warmth but compensated by a good clear cut back bone. Bottled in the autumn. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Les Combes 1er Cru, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines | Apr 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Les Combes 1er Cru, Domaine du Cellier aux MoinesFuller yellow with a touch of the muscatty style, 10% new wood, shows the exotic side and some residual bitterness, but the whole works well enough. Valuable acidity to keep it fresh Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Les Charmelottes 1er Cru, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Les Charmelottes 1er Cru, Domaine du Cellier aux MoinesAny younger vines are declassified into their ‘Felix Helix’ range. Just bottled. There were 2 new barrels out of the 7. Fullish yellow and an oaky nose. There is also plenty of oak on the palate but in Les Charlemottes I found an incisive thrust from the fruit, and good acidity, leading to a notably persistent finish. Suffering perhaps after the bottling, but potentially this is very fine and could merit a fifth star. The aftertaste in particular, with clean stone fruit, promises well. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Santenay Beauregard 1er Cru, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Santenay Beauregard 1er Cru, Domaine du Cellier aux MoinesMid to full yellow, with once again a reductive, chiselled nose. There is huge intensity on the palate in a good way, with fresh apricot and plum notes, correct acidity, a vigorous wave of fruit arrives straight away on the palate, with a fine long finish. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumées 1er Cru, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines | Apr 2024 | White | 92 | ||||||||
2022, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumées 1er Cru, Domaine du Cellier aux MoinesAn attractive lemon and lime. There is plenty of personality here while remaining quite discreet, with a long wave of white fruit emerging at the back of the palate. Not the most intense, Chaumées rarely is, but engaging and long. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines | Apr 2024 | White | 92 | ||||||||
2022, Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru, Domaine du Cellier aux MoinesA clear brisk lemon yellow. This nose has a clean pure fruit of impeccable ripeness and freshness, perhaps a lighter style among the whites here for Pucelles, but with some flair. Builds quite well on the palate, with a little more flesh, a light lactic note, quite complex and persistent. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Givry Petit Clos du Cellier, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Petit Clos du Cellier, Domaine du Cellier aux MoinesMade from the youngest and oldest vines, the last vintage for the latter which have now been pulled out for renewal with better clonal material. Darkish crimson without great density. An attractive pinot with cherries and raspberries and then quite a fresh grippy palate. The old vine tannins continue to bite. Still, makes for a good drink overall. The grapes are all from 1er Cru land but sold as village. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Clos du Cellier aux Moines 1er Cru, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines | Apr 2024 | Red | 92 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Clos du Cellier aux Moines 1er Cru, Domaine du Cellier aux MoinesA rich and almost regal crimson purple. The bouquet is very distinguished despite the youth of the vines. A little rich and ripe cherry with an underlay of concentrated raspberry. 80% whole bunch. Plenty of tannins but they are much finer here, and provide grip behind the succulent attractive fruit. Only just bottled but extremely fine and with a great keeping potential. Despite the youth. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Clos du Cellier aux Moines Les Dessus 1er Cru, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines | Apr 2024 | Red | 93 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Clos du Cellier aux Moines Les Dessus 1er Cru, Domaine du Cellier aux MoinesA selection of the best barrels, nine of them, from the best plots, with 100% whole bunch vinification. One third new wood. A fine glowing purple. The nose is super-sensual with a little vanilla adding some cream to the raspberries, which have the lifted alpine touch which comes from the whole bunches. Exquisite, the tannins almost completely folded in, and a further wealth of velvet fruit returning right at the finish. A very long finish indeed Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Clos Pascal, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines | Apr 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Clos Pascal, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines100% whole bunch vinification does indeed infuse the nose. Surprisingly dense colour for such young vines, a darker timbre I suppose from the planting density. A haunting fruit on the nose, not quite as free flow as Dessus, a little darker, some sunny cherry skins, a little touch of liquorice as well. Compelling rather than classic. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Volnay En Chevret 1er Cru, Domaine du Cellier aux Moines | Apr 2024 | Red | 93 | ||||||||
2022, Volnay En Chevret 1er Cru, Domaine du Cellier aux MoinesA fine classical crimson purple. The nose is less forthcoming from these older vines, planted in 1976. Much thicker texture, though the tannins are supple. A wealth of strawberry and raspberry fruit, almost too rich to be a classical Volnay but there is so much there to be exciting further down the line. A particularly long finish. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Château de Chamilly
HideI tasted examples of the 2022 vintage from the Desfontaine family of the Château de Chamilly, just bottled the previous week, for both colours. They manage on a farming agreement the 10ha of vines which belong to the Domaine Cary-Potet. The wines, excepting Aligoté and a plot of Montagny, are picked by hand, kept cool in a refrigerated chamber, and the reds are then mostly destemmed.
White
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Aligoté, Château de Chamilly | Mar 2024 | White | 86 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Aligoté, Château de ChamillyThe Aligoté comes from Chamilly and Montagny, and is made in tank. It is fresh and quite pure, with some body, herbal and tangy. Good length. Drink from 2024-2026. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bouzeron, Château de Chamilly | Mar 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Bouzeron, Château de ChamillyRaised in a wooden foudre. This is relatively new to the line-up, the plot having been purchased in 2019. Clear pale colour, much greater depth of fruit, more of a classical white fruit with a little lemon and lime wash to finish. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Les Reculerons, Château de Chamilly | Mar 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Les Reculerons, Château de ChamillyMade in stainless steel. Very pale in colour. The nose is quiet yet clean, with less of the smoky reduction which I had been advised to expect, while there is a lot more muscle on the palate. Good for village Montagny. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Les Marcoeurs, Château de Chamilly | Mar 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Les Marcoeurs, Château de ChamillyGrown on an iron-rich red soil. This wine has been pressed with minimum settling, not sulphured during vinification, no lees stirring, with 12 months in wood followed by six in tank. There is some weight of fruit, and some depth, with a mildly liquorice note on the palate. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Les Burnins 1er Cru, Château de Chamilly | Mar 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Les Burnins 1er Cru, Château de ChamillyLes Burnins is a sunny south-west facing site. Ageing is for 12 months in barrel with little new wood. Les Burnins offers an interesting, if not especially Montagny typical, nutty note on the nose. The palate delivers a certain crispness alongside the undoubted density while keeping the nutty note. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise, Château de Chamilly | Mar 2024 | Red | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise, Château de ChamillyMid purple, attractive, with depth and weight to the fruit, then a slightly rougher finish. While the fruit is indeed good, the tannins just need to refine. 10% new wood does not impinge. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Au Pied de Mont Morin, Château de Chamilly | Mar 2024 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Au Pied de Mont Morin, Château de ChamillyThese vines are located on the plateau which descends towards Rully. A deeper soil nonetheless. The grapes are destemmed. There is fresh red fruit, though a bit angular. Tight with some concentration, both tannins and acidity contributing to the structure. This will mellow with a year or two in bottle. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Les Puillets 1er Cru, Château de Chamilly | Mar 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Les Puillets 1er Cru, Château de ChamillyThe fruit was not quite healthy enough to allow for 50% whole bunch vinification, though the oak regime (25% new) was the same as for the Clos des Perrières. The Puillets has a pretty perfume, based more on raspberry fruit. There follows the usual structured style of this vineyard, with a firm finish. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Clos La Perrière Monopole, Château de Chamilly | Mar 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Clos La Perrière Monopole, Château de ChamillyThe Clos des Perrières has much more iron in the soil. This wine has been made with 50% whole bunch vinification and 25% has been aged in new wood. Pretty and pink edged purple, very perfumed, cherries and roses, rather nice. Fair oak, perhaps slightly over noticeable in youth, but this is attractive overall. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Château de Chamirey
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I tasted with Amaury Devillard at the Chateau de Chamirey, where he also showed me the wines from the family’s other properties such as Domaine de la Garenne (see Mâconnais report), Domaine de la Ferté and Devillard, both in this report. The Chamirey wines continue to use natural cork. The Devillard wines, including the Château de Chamirey are quite powerful in 2022, frequently exceeding 14.5%, the only challenge to otherwise very competent wines.
White
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| 2022 | Mercurey, Château de Chamirey | Apr 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey, Château de ChamireyProduced from 7 plots, covering 6.5ha, fermented in wood, then aged in 25% new barrels, 25% one or two year old, and 50% stainless steel. A pale lemon and lime colour. The bouquet shows the tension which marks the recent style of the Devillard whites, less flesh or liquorice than it might formerly have shown. The oak shows at the back, adding a cream and vanilla note to the finish. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey En Pierrelet, Château de Chamirey | Apr 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey En Pierrelet, Château de ChamireyThe Pierrelet vineyard comprises 3ha behind the park, with plenty of limestone stones. One third of the production is bottled separately, the rest being included in the Mercurey blend. A fuller lemon and lime colour. The bouquet has more weight, a little less reductive, some ripe pear fruit emerging now on the nose, retaining a fresh aspect behind, and a little oak to finish. Warmth with a fresh feel nonetheless, and good length. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey La Mission Monopole 1er Cru, Château de Chamirey | Apr 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey La Mission Monopole 1er Cru, Château de ChamireyThe vineyard is due to be renewed, with some vines from each of the three plots which make up this Monopole vineyard being pulled out after the 2022 vintage. The oldest vines are 85 years old. The wine receives 18 months elevage with 30% new wood, 70% two to three year old. A pleasing green tint to the pale lemon yellow colour. More flesh on the nose, a little bacon fat and some liquorice, but all quite restrained. More sucrosity here as the white orchard fruit builds on the palate. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Mercurey, Château de Chamirey | Apr 2024 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey, Château de Chamirey10 plots making up maybe 11ha, bottled before the next harvest, the idea being to have a significant volume of a sound and reliable Mercurey. Slightly leaner than the Givrys (see Domaine de la Ferté), with a compelling red fruit all the way through and a grainier tannin to finish. Dark fleshed cherries. 14% alcohol. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Clos de la Maladière, Château de Chamirey | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Clos de la Maladière, Château de ChamireyPlanted in 1959 and 1979. Middling purple, quite heady but with greater refinement than the regular and with a zesty finish including some citrus. Quite stylish, with fine length. 13.5% alcohol. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Clos du Roi 1er Cru, Château de Chamirey | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Clos du Roi 1er Cru, Château de ChamireyA vineyard of 3ha. This cuvee receives eighteen months elevage in a cold cellar. Glowing mid purple, more elegance to the nose than 14.5% alcohol on the label suggests. Good tension, some oak, a bit of warmth behind. Solid, needs time. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Hors Ligne, Château de Chamirey | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Hors Ligne, Château de ChamireyThe Cuvee Hors Ligne is made with 30% whole bunch vinification, from a plot in a vineyard called Les Chavances, planted in 1988. It has a rich powerful purple colour, a forceful, perhaps slightly chunky nose, but more graceful fruit behind, fair length, not so heated as Clos du Roi though also labelled at 14.5% alcohol. Perhaps the admixture of a few chardonnay grapes with the pinot helps. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey En Sazenay 1er Cru, Château de Chamirey | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey En Sazenay 1er Cru, Château de ChamireyEast facing on limestone. Bright and saturated purple. The wealth of fruit does reflect the alcohol too, in a dark cherry- soft strawberry style. Holds its line better in the mouth as the limestone aids the definition. A clean long finish. 14.5% alcohol. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Champs Martin 1er Cru, Château de Chamirey | Apr 2024 | Red | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Champs Martin 1er Cru, Château de ChamireyMedium deep purple, the nose starts out fine but there is too much power to the fruit on the palate, then a racier limestone finish. But finishes with heat, as the 15% alcohol on the label would indicate. The fruit is in no way cooked, but your palate will need to be attuned to the higher alcohol to appreciate this wine. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Clos l’Evêque 1er Cru, Château de Chamirey | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Clos l’Evêque 1er Cru, Château de ChamireyRich mid purple. The nose is a little fresher, with peonies and raspberry. The fruit fills the palate, the tannins are refined, not too much acidity but enough, and finishes more on the fruit than the heat. The Clos L’Evêque achieves a better balance than some of its stable mates Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Clos des Ruelles 1er Cru, Château de Chamirey | Apr 2024 | Red | 86 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Clos des Ruelles 1er Cru, Château de ChamireyAnother heady purple, with a bouquet which shows the alcohol, and a rich sweet dark cherry fruit across the palate which is too much for me. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey "Les Cinq" 1er Cru, Château de Chamirey | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey "Les Cinq" 1er Cru, Château de ChamireyLes Cinq is made up of the two best barrels of each 1er cru. Though we tasted the 2022, this is held back for three years in bottle, the 2019 being sold now. . It is true that the wood has a firmer hold for now, but this comes across as better balanced, as if the wood had tamed the alcohol. Really quite classy at the finish. Despite its 14.5% on the label. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Maison Chanzy
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Having gone through some difficult timers a while back, Maison Chanzy (in fact they offer almost all domaine wines despite the Maison part of the name) is under much better management and with a consistency of quality in the winemaking – not trying to be cutting edge, but thoroughly reliable and indeed frequently more than that. It is a large operation, with 66ha of vines.
The 2022 harvest lasted from 1st to 22nd September, with the reds being picked by hand, and mostly destemmed. Degrees vary from 12.5 to 14.5%. The tasting was fascinating in particular for including seven different bottlings of Bouzeron.
White
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| 2022 | Bouzeron Les Trois, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Bouzeron Les Trois, Maison ChanzyA blend which covers the three exposures of Bouzeron. Les Cordères, Les Corcelles, Les Clous, which are respectively west, northwest and southeast facing. The wine is made in stainless steel and foudres and is bottled after 10 months, in June. Pale lemon yellow. Rather an impressive density of fruit, with a supple texture and good length. You would be really happy to order this up by the glass in a restaurant. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bouzeron Les Corderes, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Bouzeron Les Corderes, Maison Chanzy5 barrels made, including one new. A little more colour, perhaps from the oak, which one can detect on the nose, though it is well integrated. White orchard fruit with a little plum, the grape skins behind, the correct balance of fruit to acidity, and a generous finish. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bouzeron Les Corcelles, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Bouzeron Les Corcelles, Maison Chanzy1.23ha in two plots. Five barrels, one new, two recent, two older. Pale lemon with the faintest green tint. This has a more nervous stony nose and little sign of the oak. Excellent energy with a good backbone, on the limestone, and fine length. A classical expression of Bouzeron. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bouzeron Les Clous, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Bouzeron Les Clous, Maison ChanzyA significant holding of 3.34ha. 20% new wood. A fuller lemon yellow, with again a classical bouquet albeit a little touch riper than Corcelles. A lemon thread moves through the relatively dense white fruit on the palate, with a complete finish. Very satisfactory. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bouzeron La Fortune Hommage a Joseph Sordet, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Bouzeron La Fortune Hommage a Joseph Sordet, Maison ChanzyA plot of 0.58ha of vines from 1945-46, picked by hand. This homage to a previous owner is made in barrel, with 30% new wood, and amphora, and is bottled in magnum. Lemon and lime in colour. A waxy note to the nose, now developing some bacon fat, self-evidently a richer wine. All white fruit still, the same waxy overlay in the mouth. Density up front, with an agreeably long finish. While this cuvée evidently has a notable personality of its own, it is less classic as a Bouzeron. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bouzeron Clos de la Fortune, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Bouzeron Clos de la Fortune, Maison ChanzyOne third has been made in wood, with 20% new, the rest in stainless. A fine mid lemon yellow. The bouquet is very full, with a light wax note, then a full mouthful of predominantly orchard fruit with some ripe citrus as well. Nicely balanced with appealing density and considerable length. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bouzeron Clos de la Fortune Vieilles Vignes, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Bouzeron Clos de la Fortune Vieilles Vignes, Maison ChanzyHand-picked, from the upper part of the Clos, a block of 0.59ha planted in 1968. All has been made in barrel with 15% new wood. Mid lemon yellow. The bouquet is surprisingly indistinct at the moment. Impressive in tensity and tension on the palate, all in a pure white fruit, none of the angularity that an Aligoté might have. Impressive length. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Clos les Bussières Monopole, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Clos les Bussières Monopole, Maison ChanzyAn enclave in the pine forest. All in barrel with 20% new wood. Clear mid lemon colour. Some citrus on the nose too. Pure white apple fruit on the palate, with a crunchy stony character, and good length. Not a soft and rich Mercurey but a pleasing wine at altitude. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully La Crée, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Rully La Crée, Maison ChanzyPart has been made in wood with 15% new, the majority in stainless steel. La Cree lies below 1er Cru La Pucelle. Mid lemon yellow. A rather more evolved and very appley nose. Lemony finish, a bright if brittle white Rully. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Clos du Roy 1er Cru, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Clos du Roy 1er Cru, Maison Chanzy20% new wood. Pale yellow. A very typical Cote de Beaune chardonnay nose, maybe not the most floral of Pulignys but with class nonetheless. Excellent balance between the white fruit and the saline freshness of the finish, with good acidity. Fine persistence too. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Pulgny-Montrachet Les Reuchaux, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Pulgny-Montrachet Les Reuchaux, Maison ChanzyAll wood, 20% new. Very limestone soil, quite different to where the red is planted. This is denser with a light liquorice touch. More opulent than any predecessors, yet avoids being too soft. One can see the extra ripeness but the acidity has held up. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Santenay Beaurepaire 1er Cru, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Santenay Beaurepaire 1er Cru, Maison ChanzyJust 0.09ha on three little terraces, all done by hand. Production amounts to one new barrel, and one older 500 litre. Mid lemon yellow. A little biscuit, a fractional reduction. This has considerable tension, and will need time to come together. A concentrated lemon zest with some bacon fact. A wine currently heading in various different directions, but my tip is that this will come together to make an interesting Santenay. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise La Fortune, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | Red | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise La Fortune, Maison ChanzyTaken out of the regular blend for the first time. Youngish vines, around 15 years. A glowing mid purple, with an immediate and quite classy pinot fruit, on the succulent side. Bottled end February, after maturation in foudre and barrel, young but not new. A darker fruit, slightly biscuity, good acid balance. Attractive. Drink from 2024-2026. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Clos de Bellecroix, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Clos de Bellecroix, Maison ChanzyAll made in 228 litre barrels with 17% new wood. Bottled in February. A slightly more vibrant ruby colour. An elegance to the fruit backed up by a depth of flavour, a naturally fresh finish, being a north facing vineyard. Very nicely done, with fine length. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Les Bussières, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Les Bussières, Maison ChanzyA high altitude vineyard. All has been made in 228 litre barrels. Slightly more depth of colour, and indeed weight of fruit on the nose, but less character perhaps. A spicy touch, well integrated wood aspect, a few more tannins, a sound and solid Mercurey retaining freshness. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Clos Voyens 1er Cru, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Clos Voyens 1er Cru, Maison ChanzyFrom the upper part, below the forest and the roman road. A strongly limestone spot. Mid crimson purple, with a fresh approach to the nose, a juicy raspberry fruit without too much density, but enough. The finish develops well. 15% new wood. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Clos du Roy 1er Cru, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Clos du Roy 1er Cru, Maison ChanzyThe pinot is grown on the lower slope, on redder soil whereas the white vines are on white stones. Similar in colour to Clos Voyens, but with a little more complexity in the fruit, a savoury iron rich feel to it, well balanced behind with some length. Need to pick early. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Le Champ Lalot 1er Cru, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Le Champ Lalot 1er Cru, Maison ChanzyMid crimson red. More in the savoury pinot style, as here also the soil is noticeably red. 10% new wood, just showing at the end, which indicates that the choice to use less is a good one. Rounded fruit with well-integrated tannins. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Maranges La Fussière 1er Cru, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | Red | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Maranges La Fussière 1er Cru, Maison ChanzyFour little plots in different parts of this large 1er cru. A rich deeper crimson colour with a wealth of fruit on the nose. Under 20% new wood. Something rather furry on the palate, especially at the back, some tannins which are not fully integrated. Lean yet with fair concentration. Just missing something today? Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Santenay Cornières, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Santenay Cornières, Maison ChanzyMore crimson than ruby, with some density. A dark strawberry approach to the fruit. Some tension here which retains the balance against the sweeter juicy strawberry fruit, with respectable length. Well balanced. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Santenay Beaurepaire 1er Cru, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Santenay Beaurepaire 1er Cru, Maison ChanzyFrom the northern end, almost in the woods, a small plot of 0.23ha. Three barrels, one new. Clean lighter ruby colour. This ahs been vinified with 50% whole bunches, which livens up the bouquet and adds an alpine strawberry note to the raspberries. The texture has more detail too. Attractive middleweight Santenay with good length. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Volnay Fremiets 1er Cru, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Volnay Fremiets 1er Cru, Maison ChanzyThe first plot to be picked, and clearly already fully ripe. The label records 14.5% alcohol, though I did not pick out that much while tasting the wine. 40% new wood. Slightly deeper in colour than many in the range, with greater depth to the fruit, mainly dark raspberry. The fruit has not been denatured. Rich, slightly firm tannins behind, sweetly ripe. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Beaune Clos des Marconnets 1er Cru, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Beaune Clos des Marconnets 1er Cru, Maison ChanzyMade from purchased grapes (an exchange). 100% whole bunch, three barrels. Picked 31st August. A full purple colour, with a deliciously ripe gracious fruit. Oak is present but in proportion. Needs time to find its own character as the whole bunches currently take the lead but it should certainly do so. Fine persistence, helped by the wood. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Vosne-Romanée La Croix Blanche, Maison Chanzy | Apr 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Vosne-Romanée La Croix Blanche, Maison Chanzy50% whole bunches. Five barrels have been made, one new. A glowing crimson to ruby colour. More perfumed on the nose, the stem component though is very well integrated, just adding a drier note to the finish, while the wine is young. Perfumed cherries ahead of raspberry, a little pepper at the back. Just about has the noblesse. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Domaine Vincent Charton
HideI tasted Vincent Charton’s wines briefly during the Grands Jours de Bourgogne and will make a point of visiting the domaine as soon as opportunity arises. One interesting technical element in his winemaking is that all wines are made in wood, specifically 500-litre barrels from Chassin, with fine-grained oak from the Chatillonais.
White
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| 2022 | Mercurey Clos de la Chiquette, Vincent Charton | Mar 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Clos de la Chiquette, Vincent ChartonThe Clos de la Chiquette is on a gentle slope facing south-southwest with a high density planting (14,000 vines per hectare). 30% of the cuvée sees some skin contact, which might be responsible for the toasty reduction on the nose. This is a lovely wine on the palate with a touch of bacon fat, before the limestone aspect of the soil freshens up the finish. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Clos du Roy 1er Cru, Vincent Charton | Mar 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Clos du Roy 1er Cru, Vincent ChartonThe steep, upper part of the vineyard is in chardonnay, planted in 1963, the lower sector being in pinot noir. Mid lemon yellow, with less of a toasty bouquet than Clos de la Chiquette. Good length here, the class of the white fruit indicating that this part of the vineyard was worth planting in white. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Mercurey Vieilles Vignes, Vincent Charton | Mar 2024 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Vieilles Vignes, Vincent ChartonThe old vine cuvée comes from Les Chavances, at the southern end of Mercurey near St-Martin-sous-Montaigu, on notably red soil. It has been aged for 12 months in barrel, with 15% new wood and 15% whole bunch vinification. The wine shows Mercurey tannins behind cheerful red fruit and good acidity. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Chapitre, Vincent Charton | Mar 2024 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Chapitre, Vincent ChartonFrom the centre of the village, where there is more clay. Though vinifying over 25 days, Vincent Charton aims to avoid significant extraction here. The Clos du Chapître offers intense red fruit, with a peppery finish, not too tannic. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey La Chassière 1er Cru, Vincent Charton | Mar 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey La Chassière 1er Cru, Vincent ChartonLa Chassiere is a lesser known 1er Cru, in St-Martin-sous-Montaigu, on crumbly red soil. This si the first plot to be picked, and they got there in time. Fine mid purple, with the most elegant bouquet. Excellent density behind, stylish pinot and long. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Clos du Roy 1er Cru, Vincent Charton | Mar 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Clos du Roy 1er Cru, Vincent ChartonExcellent purple. Dense with dark cherry fruit on the nose, while the palate suggests both nobility and depth, the plump dark cherry fruit continuing behind in a notably persistent finish. Very well done. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Domaine Laurent Cognard
HideI tasted these wines during the Grands Jours de Bourgogne. In addition to Laurent’s Cote Chalonnaise wines, he recently recuperated vineyards in Pouilly-Loché, from his grandfather, having extracted them from the local co-operative. This is another domaine which I am keen to visit.
White
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| 2022 | Montagny Les Bassets 1er Cru, Domaine Laurent Cognard | Mar 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Les Bassets 1er Cru, Domaine Laurent CognardThis, in common with most of Laurent’s wines, is made in 500-litre barrels, with little new wood. Les Bassets is at mid slope, facing east, and the first site to be pick. It has a pretty and pale colour, some elegance to the fruit with a floral overlay. Ripe but not too much so, with very good length. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Le Vieux Château 1er Cru, Domaine Laurent Cognard | Mar 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Le Vieux Château 1er Cru, Domaine Laurent CognardThe Vieux Château is on a vein of south-facing limestone, at higher altitude. This wine shows that little touch of coquillage that can make Montagny faintly reminiscent of Chablis. There is fine intensity, perfectly structured with a fine stony finish. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Clos du Vieux Château 1er Cru, Domaine Laurent Cognard | Mar 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Clos du Vieux Château 1er Cru, Domaine Laurent CognardThe Clos sits on a limestone plateau well above the rest of Vieux Château. All is made in 500-litrebarrels of which half are new to add breadth. Also the oak delivers a little more depth of colour. The oak is really quite evident on the palate, along with iodine salinity. Good length. The Clos du Vieux Château needs both food and time. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Cuvée Lison 1er Cru, Domaine Laurent Cognard | Mar 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Cuvée Lison 1er Cru, Domaine Laurent CognardHigher still on the slope, on clay as well as limestone, is the Cuvee Lison, which also has more new wood, balanced by an amphora. Pale straw in colour, wood showing on the nose. Fruit fills the mouth and persists well, but is it a perfect balance? Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Mercurey Les Deux Terres, Domaine Laurent Cognard | Mar 2024 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Les Deux Terres, Domaine Laurent CognardThis wine is Laurent Cognard’s only blend which he does because the admixture of grapes from St-Martin cancels out the slight rusticity of his main plot. It delivers quite a full purple colour with an attractive supple pinot fruit. Medium bodied, with more generous fruit than tannin. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Clos du Paradis 1er Cru, Domaine Laurent Cognard | Mar 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Clos du Paradis 1er Cru, Domaine Laurent CognardGrown on red clay with iron oxide. Mid purple with a light reduction on the nose. Slightly fresher than les Deux Terres, full of lively raspberry fruit, with more zest at the finish. Good tension here and length. Promising. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Alain & Raphaël Corcia
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Alain Corcia has been a noted negociant with his company, Prestige des Grands Vins de France. His son Raphael would rather be at the vineyard end of the chain. He started his own domaine, incorporating also his father’s name, in Mercurey in 2021 with five hectares of vines, of which the youngest date back to the 1970s. He is a big fan of using compost in the vines and ploughing by horse. From 2024 the domaine will be certified organic.
White
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| 2022 | Mercurey Le Pontot, Alain & Raphaël Corcia | Mar 2024 | White | 84 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Le Pontot, Alain & Raphaël CorciaLe Pontot has spent 12 months in oak followed by 5 in barrel but was rather out of shape on the day I tasted, the nose rather governed by the oak then fresh acidity but not fully balanced between the two. 80% new wood may be a little too much for this level of wine Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Pinot Noir Le Courtechat, Alain & Raphaël Corcia | Mar 2024 | Red | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Pinot Noir Le Courtechat, Alain & Raphaël CorciaThe Bourgogne is given 55% whole bunch vinification then aged in wood for 16 months. It comes across as full-bodied but not over-extracted. Full mid purple, with plenty of supple fruit then a touch of volatility that is subsumed within the interesting and exuberant fruit. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey En Grillot, Alain & Raphaël Corcia | Mar 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey En Grillot, Alain & Raphaël CorciaEn Grillot sits just below the premier cru Clos du Roy. Vinified with 35% whole bunches. Slightly lighter purple than the Bourgogne, but still adequately full. A very engaging pinot fruit on the nose, with generous dark raspberry on the palate, good length too. Full and agreeable. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Les Crets, Alain & Raphaël Corcia | Mar 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Les Crets, Alain & Raphaël CorciaThe same full purple colour. A little more closed on the nose, a question of youth, but with a wealth of fruit on the palate, enhanced by a gentle salinity to finish. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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A & A Devillard
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The purpose of this label is to work with regional wines, aiming at by the glass programmes in the international markets. See also Chateau de Chamirey and Domaine de la Ferté.
White
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Chardonnay Le Renard, A & A Devillard | Apr 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Chardonnay Le Renard, A & A DevillardPicked by hand, fermented in wood, then raised 90% in tank and 10% larger wood for the elevage. The fruit is a mix of their own plot in Lugny and some purchases. Pale lemon with a light green tint, noticeably reductive. The wood just fills out the bouquet a little and then the cleaner style with more tension behind. Very nicely put together, this works. 12.5% alcohol. Drink from 2024-2026. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Pinot Noir, A & A Devillard | Apr 2024 | Red | 86 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Pinot Noir, A & A DevillardMade from purchases in grapes and wine. An attractive mid crimson, light pinot on the nose, some grip and fair flesh on the palate, not the noblest of red berries, few tannins and correct acidity. Drink from 2024-2026. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Coteaux Bourguignons Le Renard, A & A Devillard | Apr 2024 | Red | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Coteaux Bourguignons Le Renard, A & A DevillardIn 2022 it is all gamay – though Le Renard has included 10% pinot noir in the past. All purchased as wine. A fine rich purple, quite a restrained but juicy fruit, with fair intensity and a crisp finish. Good fruit acid balance, fair length. 13.5% alcohol. Drink from 2024-2026. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Château de Dracy
HideOn the occasions that I taste at various domaines in the annual Ronde de Couchois, I have not managed to get to the Château de Dracy, so it was interesting to catch up during the Grands Jours de Bourgogne. The wines are made in a purpose built 18th century cuverie, and there is clearly the intention to upgrade the offer. The property covers 22ha in the Couchois, picked by hand and by machine, fermented with natural yeasts and destemmed. The intention is to develop domaine bottling.
White
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Aligoté, Château de Dracy | Mar 2024 | White | 85 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Aligoté, Château de DracyAll made in stainless steel This is a cool fresh Aligoté, though the warmth of the summer has delivered a peachy note behind. Medium length. Drink from 2024-2025. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Chardonnay, Château de Dracy | Mar 2024 | White | 86 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Château de DracySome wood with 10 months more clay. Pale colour, a little touch of menthol, ferment in stainless steel before being aged in barrel. Lightly floral, rather pretty, balanced, nicely done. A little peach at the back, as per the Aligoté. Drink from 2024-2025. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Côtes de Couchois, Château de Dracy | Mar 2024 | Red | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Côtes de Couchois, Château de DracyThe pinker side of purple. Not the noblest pinot fruit but this has been well made , with a pretty cherry fruit to finish. Drink from 2024-2026. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2020 | Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Château de Dracy | Mar 2024 | Red | 86 | ||||||||
2020, Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Château de DracyMuch deeper purple with a firm structure, slatey notes with a touch of pyrazine. A different soil here, I suspect. Plenty of depth and some prettier fruit comes up behind but the graphite remains throughout. Drink from 2024-2025. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial
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It is always a great pleasure to taste with Vincent Dureuil-Janthial who shows his wines with the calm composure of somebody who knows that he is doing an outstanding job, while retaining humility. He attributes at least some of the success of his wines to persevering with the viticultural wisdom of both his grandfathers. His 2022s range from 13 to 14% alcohol and had all been recently bottled, except a few reds which had just been filtered in preparation for bottling. Immaculate wines which show off the different terroirs beautifully.
White
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialNo new wood. Pale colour, racy and full of fruit, greener in style. A little reduction, massive tension, then some sweeter fruit. Still in its infancy but excellent length to finish. In fact, a superb aftertaste with just the right touch of oak. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Chardonnay, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialFrom Puligny. Pale colour, a fresh white fruit with a creamier aspect. I think it is the natural harmony of these wines which puts them on a level above the others, density, grip and length. Little touch of liquorice here. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Rully, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialFour vineyards make up the total of 3.5ha. Pale lemon and lime. A tangy note to the nose, like skins, obviously weighty but yet with this refreshing strictness that characterises the excellence of Dureuil-Janthial wines. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Maizières, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Maizières, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialVery pale in colour, slightly reductive as the lees speak. A little apple but more a combination of white orchard fruit, opening out rather more and developing flesh on the palate. So, in the end, less restrained than initially suggested. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Chêne, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Chêne, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialA much colder spot than Maizières. The nose will take some coaxing and this is clearly leaner throughout. More linear, more chiselled, more citrus. Horses for courses, but actually the straight Rully does it all. Touch of caramel at the finish, bottle shock perhaps. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Vauvry 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Vauvry 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialA deeper lemon in colour, with a sweeter and more svelte fruit on the nose, braised apples, light citrus, plenty of fruit without becoming too fleshy, just a delicious wine with 1er Cru volume, and accessible soon. A lovely aftertaste despite the relative youth of the vines Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Meix Cadot 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Meix Cadot 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialPale lemon colour. A mild, qualitative, reduction. This has kept its tension and though there is plenty of fruit the flesh is not overt. A superb natural balance in the mouth and excellent persistence. Lingers very prettily Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Margotés 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | White | 92 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Margotés 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialFresh pale colour, seems like more oak on the nose, but actually it is the exuberant ripeness of this vineyard. Suddenly kicks on, an electric tension, lemon citrus, almost lime, yet with a white fruit purity throughout and a fine backbone. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Meix Cadot Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | White | 93 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Meix Cadot Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialThe lime notes return with the concentration of dry extract which singles this out. Extraordinary persistence, purity, intensity backbone – hard to believe we are still just in Rully with this stunning wine! Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Grésigny 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | White | 92 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Grésigny 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialPale colour. The wine is a little fuller and juicier than the Meix Cadot pair, perhaps the finest fruit generosity yet with a crystalline character. Perhaps a fraction less intense than Meix Cadot Vieilles Vignes but a brilliantly complete wine with an amazing persistence. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Corvée des Vignes 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Corvée des Vignes 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialSo, always the question is, can this compete with the best of Vincent Dureuil-Janthial’s Rully cuvées? Probably hard for it when it comes at the end of this range. The Puligny comes across as plumper, with less green energy. Generous white fruit with its necessary backbone, and good length. Anywhere else this would come across a sa fine wine, but here it does not seem to have quite the same personality as the best of Rully. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Les Champs Gains 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | White | 93 | ||||||||
2022, Les Champs Gains 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialA faint green tint to the lemon colour. Here there is more individuality, a return of the green energy, a beautifully balanced mid palate, a fine backbone, little dancing fruits and very good length. Drink from 2027-2033. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Coteaux Bourguignons, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | Red | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Coteaux Bourguignons, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialThe blend is 90% pinot and 10% gamay. The colour is mid crimson, with a really pretty nose, the pinot speaks throughout, just a light tannin at the finish with a slight bitterness. But the juiciness of the fruit is impressive. Drink from 2025-2026. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bourgogne, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialFruit from vines in Puligny and Prémeaux, assembled at bottling. More ruby than crimson. That’s a really classy pinot nose. The palate is a little stricter, a bit firmer, still with the same quality of dark but fresh fruit, still a couple of tannins to resolve, but really persistent Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Rully, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialFrom three plots. Crimson of medium density. The nose leaps out less than the Bourgogne. An excellent intensity, with impressive weight for a village Rully, I wouldn’t have expected as much. There is interesting detail beneath, rather than staying monotone. The tannins are well integrated within this degree of fruit. Buy this if you see it. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialTwo plots one of which is very young, from 2017. Slightly lighter in colour than the Rully, agreeably perfumed, less density perhaps but it is attractive. Slightly savoury red fruit to finish. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully En Guesnes, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Rully En Guesnes, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialA fine and even mid red to purple. Crunchier fruit than the Mercurey. A fine intensity of dark berry, even dark redcurrant fruit, some damson, tannins not too present but a light bitterness to finish. En Guesnes comes across as relatively rich, from its clay soils. An easy 14% Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Maizières, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Maizières, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialFresh lively ruby. The bouquet has much more elegance to it yet with just as much intensity. But all in a finer, lacier style. Cherry and raspberry fruit with a fine long finish. The fruit acid balance is just perfect. Lovely! Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully La Fosse 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Rully La Fosse 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialVincent describes La Fosse as a sunny spot that makes fine wines. Not the deepest of colours and the bouquet is shy. Good acidity again, but this will need time for the fruit to emerge. Definitely a food wine. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Champs Cloux 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Champs Cloux 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialA plot of 0.27ha, a new rental agreement beginning in 2022. Red soil with iron oxide, an early site but which must not be picked too quickly. Quite a full mid purple. Blood red fruit on the nose. Less suave than his other wines, probably a question of this site not having benefitted from Dureuil-Janthial viticulture previously. The oak shows a little too. Another example to prove the importance of quality work in the vines. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Chapitre 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Chapitre 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialNot the deepest of colours. The nose is not the most forthcoming either, though starting to peep out and it is beautiful on the palate, really suave, a graceful small red berry fruit, no obvious tannins, with the acidity totally integrated. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Les Cloux 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Les Cloux 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial1 barrel and a half from vines planted in 1936, filtered this morning. Medium deep colour, slightly denatured by the filtering. The nose might also have lost some of its precision, yet not its weight, depth, class nor velvety texture. Presumably this would have shown even better without the recent treatment which may have cost the fifth star. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully En Guesnes WANADA, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | Red | 92 | ||||||||
2022, Rully En Guesnes WANADA, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialThis version of En Guesnes is made with whole bunches from which the main stem has been removed by hand, before ageing in 100% new wood for 18 months. It had been racked three weeks ago, and filtered in the morning of the day I tasted. It is not really any deeper in colour but offers, despite the filtering, a really striking bouquet. I am beginning to understand this cuvée. Effortlessly graceful across the palate with a little greener note to finish. Raspberry juice finish Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Nuits-St-Georges Clos des Argillières 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial | Apr 2024 | Red | 92-94 | ||||||||
2022, Nuits-St-Georges Clos des Argillières 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Dureuil-JanthialJust filtered. Crimson rather than purple. There is an interesting complexity to the nose, on the savoury side, with some strawberry notes. It stretches out very nicely across the palate, a little bit of blood orange, but graceful and keeps returning with little wavelets. Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Domaine de la Ferté
HideI tend to taste all the Devillard family’s estates – covering Nuits-St-Georges, Mâcon, Mercurey, Givry and regional wines, at the Château de Chamirey at the same time. On this occasion those from the Domaine de la Ferté in Givry struck me as being a little too high in alcohol for perfection.
Red
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| 2022 | Givry, Domaine de la Ferté | Mar 2024 | Red | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Givry, Domaine de la FertéPlanted 1992-98. Now 10 ha so are rebuilding a special cuverie from 2025 harvest. A pretty crimson ruby colour, with an attractive richly floral bouquet, then quite oaky, a little bit of coconut, a slight bitterness, needs a little time still. 14.5% alcohol Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Clos des Mortières, Domaine de la Ferté | Mar 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Clos des Mortières, Domaine de la FertéMostly planted 2015 with a small plot of ancient vines, since pulled out. Medium deep crimson, with a very pretty profile on the nose, the floral side of raspberry. Delicious and elegant, no real sign of the younger vines, with fair persistence. A Monopole. 14% alcohol Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Clos de la Servoisine 1er Cru, Domaine de la Ferté | Mar 2024 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Clos de la Servoisine 1er Cru, Domaine de la FertéA richer purple, with a headier bouquet in ripe dark cherry and peony. Fuller and richer than the Clos de Mortières, of course, with good acidity behind to retain freshness. Very heady. 15% alcohol Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Domaine de la Folie
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These notes come from a combination of two visits – to see The Dubrulles at their domaine in the spring of 2024 when we mostly tasted 2022s in bottle, though had a sneak preview of a couple of 2023s from barrel, and then a tasting of various 2023s, now bottled, in London in January 2025.The wines have developed a degree of consistency that put them among the front runners for Rully. They picked relatively early in 2022, but held off a little longer in 2023.
White
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| 2023 | Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine de la Folie | Jan 2025 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2023, Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine de la FolieGrown in La Folie, from older vines of Aligoté Doré, all made in stainless steel. Clean pure and very stylish, with a touch of iodine, a combination of stone and seaweed which persists extremely well. Drink from 2024-2026. Tasted Jan 2025. |
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| 2023 | Rully Clos La Folie, Domaine de la Folie | Jan 2025 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2023, Rully Clos La Folie, Domaine de la FolieFull lemon in colour, with rather a discreet nose. Good tension, perhaps a slight youthful bitterness, the 2023 Clos de la Folie has less intensity than the 2022, but nonetheless offers a fine long finish. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Jan 2025. |
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| 2023 | Rully Clos du Chaigne 1er Cru, Domaine de la Folie | Jan 2025 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2023, Rully Clos du Chaigne 1er Cru, Domaine de la FoliePicked later in 2023 after their 2022 experience when the grapes were perhaps not quite ripe. Brings out more of a muscatty nose, and a varied wealth of fruit on the palate, still with enough acidity. More length, more generosity. The 20% new oak component provides additional body in support of the fruit. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Jan 2025. |
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine de la Folie | Apr 2024 | White | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine de la FolieFine pale lemon with a green tint. A more angular style of Aligoté than some I have been tasting this year. Saline and stony on the nose. Some lime and some fresh plum, medium-bodied, then rather more perfumed to finish. 12% alcohol. Drink from 2025-2026. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Clos La Folie, Domaine de la Folie | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Clos La Folie, Domaine de la FoliePale lemon colour. A fresh, quite crystalline nose, then a fresh fruit perfume, certainly ripe enough. Part of the cuvée is now made in wood but most is still in stainless steel. Retains the tension beautifully, fresh white fruit, saline yet deliciously accessible. Very pretty aftertaste, very well done. 12.5% Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Clos du Chaigne 1er Cru, Domaine de la Folie | Apr 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Clos du Chaigne 1er Cru, Domaine de la FolieMid lemon yellow. At first a stony reduction dominates. Quite strict here, could use just a little more ripeness, and it works well in the mouth, though the flavours have not quite finished coming out. Medium bodied and with good length.12.5% alcohol. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Clos St-Jacques 1er Cru, Domaine de la Folie | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Clos St-Jacques 1er Cru, Domaine de la FolieOld vines so the yield was not exceptional. Mid yellow with a touch of muscat perfume. The nose takes time to build but the wealth of fruit on the palate is immediate, and exciting. Very good acid balance, dramatic ripe lemon and some plum, the Clos St-Jacques is full of energy this year. 12.5% alcohol. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Red
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| 2023 | Rully Cuvée Marey, Domaine de la Folie | Apr 2024 | Red | 88-90 | ||||||||
2023, Rully Cuvée Marey, Domaine de la FolieWhen I tasted from barrel the Cuvee Marey had just finished its malolactic and been sulphured, but even so it looks likely to be an impressive wine. Apparently it took time for anything to come out in vinification, so Baptiste had to extract a little more than usual – but it now shows a lovely cherry strawberry fruit with a persistent finish. Prettier and cleaner when tasted from a Chassin barrel, with an even longer finish. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Clos de Bellecroix, Domaine de la Folie | Apr 2024 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Clos de Bellecroix, Domaine de la FolieMedium crimson colour. Half has been aged in tank and half in older barrels. Not the noblest pinot on the nose, but there is excellent fresh strawberry and raspberry on the palate with the fresh finish of this vineyard which faces north-northeast. Delivers more than you first think and finishes fresh. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Cuvée Marey, Domaine de la Folie | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Cuvée Marey, Domaine de la FoliePicked first as the skins were starting to wrinkle. All in wood, 25% new. A deeper dark crimson colour, with a bouquet that is both finer and weightier. A classy pinot with cherries as well as red berries, much more energy throughout with a good acid balance as well. Excellent length. 13.5% Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Pink
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| 2023 | Coteaux Bourguignons Rosé, Domaine de la Folie | Apr 2024 | Pink | 86 | ||||||||
2023, Coteaux Bourguignons Rosé, Domaine de la FolieA pinot-gamay mix, made in stainless steel, bottled early for immediate drinking. Fine clear pale pink. Full of fruit strawberry bonbons, with cheerful vivid fruit. Decent acidity. Lovely stuff. Drink from 2024-2025. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Domaine les Champs de L’abbaye
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I tasted some of Alain Hasard’s white wines (rather sketchily I am afraid, notes not given) during the Grands Jours de Bourgogne and then visited at the domaine, where Alain showed me his 2023 reds from barrel, reported on here. It looks as though he and Isabelle may be selling up soon, so enjoy these while you can. I wish I had more in my cellar.
Red
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| 2023 | Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise Les Gardes Remi, Domaine Les Champs de l’Abbaye | Apr 2024 | Red | 85-87 | ||||||||
2023, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise Les Gardes Remi, Domaine Les Champs de l’AbbayeExposed east, and was hit by hail in 2023, so Alain chose to vinify light, as the colour shows. This is an elegant, accessible, perfumed Bourgogne, with a succulent rose petal fruit. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2023 | Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise Les Clavots, Domaine Les Champs de l’Abbaye | Apr 2024 | Red | 87-89 | ||||||||
2023, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise Les Clavots, Domaine Les Champs de l’AbbayeA pleasing ruby to light purple. Generous and charming fruit, with 20% whole bunches which lifts the floral raspberry notes. More weight on the palate, punchy and crunchy, with excellent acidity. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2023 | Mercurey Les Marcoeurs, Domaine Les Champs de l’Abbaye | Apr 2024 | Red | 90-92 | ||||||||
2023, Mercurey Les Marcoeurs, Domaine Les Champs de l’AbbayeGlorious ripe purple. With a nose of a class I have almost never found elsewhere in Mercurey. All aged in two year old barrels. The highest quality of raspberry, which continues on the palate. Absolutely dances across the palate. Exquisite aftertaste. Drink from 2027-2031. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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P & M Jacqueson
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The Jacquesons started picking on 26th August in 2022, a much easier to manage growing season than 2023 which was twice hailed. The wines are handpicked, fermented with natural yeasts, and aged with 15% new wood for both colours. The white Rully Grésigny and red Clos la Renarde get additional ageing in barrel. All whites and some reds are bottled using DIAM. A leading source for well made Rully of both colours. The balance is currently 50/50 but with more white plantings coming on line soon.
White
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| 2022 | Bouzeron Aligoté, P & M Jacqueson | Apr 2024 | White | 86 | ||||||||
2022, Bouzeron Aligoté, P & M JacquesonPale yellow. Some banana and apple. Planted 1946-52 in Rully. Slightly old style waxy confection. Made in old barrels for 10 months. Riper than old style Aligoté would have been, but still broadly in that category. Good length, some almond paste to finish. Drink from 2024-2026. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bouzeron Les Cordères, P & M Jacqueson | Apr 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Bouzeron Les Cordères, P & M JacquesonFrom a plot planted in 1937, purchased in 2002. Made in older barrels for 12 months. Pale in colour but with an immediate tension. Pure white fruit, again with some almonds. A little more volume to the fruit, with some yellow notes, a light bitterness from the skins at the back, yet with intensity and length. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully, P & M Jacqueson | Apr 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Rully, P & M JacquesonA blend of La Barre and Fromanges. Clear pale colour. A fine and fresh nose, eschewing too much reliance on apple, with a broad-based white fruit on the palate, enough acidity and excellent length. The fruit comes back in further waves, a little sucrosity, so gourmand but also fine. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully La Pucelle 1er Cru, P & M Jacqueson | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Rully La Pucelle 1er Cru, P & M JacquesonA fine clear bright pale colour. The nose is reticent but suggests good wine behind. More backbone here and the fruit extends well, with some ripe citrus, a little more tension than the village Rully. Just needs a year in bottle, then basta! Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Margotés 1er Cru, P & M Jacqueson | Apr 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Margotés 1er Cru, P & M JacquesonEqually pale, slightly more fresh apple notes, with concentration on the palate, white fruit in the middle, then a slight citrus wash behind. Not quite the same intensity as Pucelle, though still very good. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Vauvry 1er Cru, P & M Jacqueson | Apr 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Vauvry 1er Cru, P & M JacquesonPretty pale lemon. Slightly more bouquet here, the light side of yellow plum with some ripe apple, less linear than Pucelle but a broader texture on the palate with once again some ripe citrus. Nicely managed. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Grésigny 1er Cru, P & M Jacqueson | Apr 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Grésigny 1er Cru, P & M JacquesonMade from vines planted in 1950, bottled in April 2024, after 18 months unracked in barrel. Pale to mid yellow. A touch resinous on the nose, reductive too after a late malolactic. Tension and acidity but so evidently more backward. A little more of the bacon fat. Give this time. The 2022 Grésigny has the flesh and the backbone to develop into a fine wine. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Rully Les Chaponnières, P & M Jacqueson | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Les Chaponnières, P & M JacquesonPinky purple. A beautiful nose of cherry and raspberry, uncomplicated but delicious. Quite high acidity but with a wealth of fruit to cover the bone structure, clean and fine behind, single level but well done. 13% alcohol. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Cloux 1er Cru, P & M Jacqueson | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Cloux 1er Cru, P & M JacquesonAnother fine bring ruby colour. Good density on the nose, the nutty side of fresh raspberry. A darker fruit behind, reflecting 14% on the label. Enough acidity behind to keep the wine fresh. More finesse here than its twin Préaux. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Préaux 1er Cru, P & M Jacqueson | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Préaux 1er Cru, P & M JacquesonPlanted in the late 1960s. There is some density to the crimson/ruby colour. The nose has a firm dark berry fruit. More tannins in the mouth as well to give greater structure, to match the depth of fruit. Does not feel over ripe. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Les Naugues 1er Cru, P & M Jacqueson | Apr 2024 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Les Naugues 1er Cru, P & M JacquesonPlanted in 1962. Middling depth of fresh crimson colour. A firm nose here, Mercurey style, with a freshness to the tannins from this slightly less ripe wine, fresh cherry and raspberry, not quite the length. 13% alcohol. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Les Velley 1er Cru, P & M Jacqueson | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Les Velley 1er Cru, P & M JacquesonPretty crimson ruby colour. More life on the nose, but though there is a fresh element, the fruit at the back is ripe, still in cheerful red fruit nose. But with the firmness of Mercurey. 14% alcohol. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Les Champs Martin 1er Cru, P & M Jacqueson | Apr 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Les Champs Martin 1er Cru, P & M Jacqueson2022 is the last vintage here as the contract has ended. Glowing crimson purple. A classier bouquet here. Significant structure but much finer tannins and a greater intensity of fruit. And has kept the freshness perfectly. Lots of energy for the future, very promising. 13.5% alcohol. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Clos la Renarde 1er Cru, P & M Jacqueson | Apr 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Clos la Renarde 1er Cru, P & M JacquesonBottled in early April after 18 months in wood, unracked. The fruit does seem to have gained in density and complexity, super sensual at the finish while retaining class and balance. Just a hint of Cote de Nuits in this. Excellent wine worthy of a few years in the cellar. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Domaine François Lumpp
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With François Lumpp now effectively fully retired, it was a pleasure to taste with his daughter, Anne-Cécile. She is a fan of 2022 – everything worked, volume and quality and the wines will be good young or old, she thinks. Picking began on 25th August through to 2nd September, with wines typically at 13% throughout.
White
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| 2022 | Givry Clos des Vignes Rondes, Domaine François Lumpp | Apr 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Clos des Vignes Rondes, Domaine François LumppA 40-year-old vineyard in the rather beautiful hamlet of Russilly, uphill from most of Givry. Made in 400-litre barrels with 20% new wood, now the standard here for white wines. Mid lemon yellow. An attractive rather juicy fruit. Orchard fruit throughout, ripe and generous. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Teppe de Chenèves, Domaine François Lumpp | Apr 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Teppe de Chenèves, Domaine François LumppPlanted in 2016, on the upper slopes which drain well and already showing character. Clear pale and fresh. Light citrus and apple, clear fresh and stony on the palate, with a pleasing crunch behind. Crystalline after the generosity of Clos des Vignes Rondes, similar persistence, less body. Drink from 2025-2026. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Givry Petit Marole 1er Cru, Domaine François Lumpp | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Petit Marole 1er Cru, Domaine François LumppFresh pale yellow. There is a plummy sense to this wine, but not quite giving on the nose. More complex on the palate with fair weight yet also a citrus thread through the middle. Kicks on well to the back of the palate with a little oak supporting the fruit Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Crausot 1er Cru, Domaine François Lumpp | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Crausot 1er Cru, Domaine François LumppPale in colour. A reductive, biscuity nose, very much a limestone reduction, not the wood. Sunshine on the limestone. Only white fruit, well chiselled, with a crispness but also some intensity. Needs longer to settle down but the fruit acid balance works well. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Pinot Noir La Paulée, Domaine François Lumpp | Apr 2024 | Red | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Pinot Noir La Paulée, Domaine François LumppPlenty of energy here from the ruby crimson colour through the fruit plus oak nose, one would not have said 70% new wood, which is in fact the case for all the Lumpp reds. Vigorous red berries, even a touch of redcurrant, quite intense. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Teppe de Chenèves, Domaine François Lumpp | Apr 2024 | Red | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Teppe de Chenèves, Domaine François LumppFrom five-year-old vines. Glowing red. Again, the oak is present and adds crunch, could be low toast, with mixed red fruits, just a slight bitterness. There is clear potential from this site, which will emerge fully as the vines begin to age. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Petit Marole 1er Cru, Domaine François Lumpp | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Petit Marole 1er Cru, Domaine François LumppNot especially deep in colour but fresh and vivid. A clean meatiness, almost blood orange, then vigorous fruit which spreads to the back of the palate. A very attractive aftertaste, growing steadily. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Au Pied de Clou 1er Cru, Domaine François Lumpp | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Au Pied de Clou 1er Cru, Domaine François LumppMid red, with a lighter rim. A little of the blood red quality on the nose. Excellent tension, though the fruit is more to the front of the palate, yet still leave a good taste in the mouth. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Crausot 1er Cru, Domaine François Lumpp | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Crausot 1er Cru, Domaine François LumppGlowing mid ruby red. The forceful limestone character of Crausot is immediately apparent. This is elegant all the way through, a very straight red fruit, less complete at the back but persistent and this is a flavour I really like – spring time wine, served quite fresh. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Clos Jus 1er Cru, Domaine François Lumpp | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Clos Jus 1er Cru, Domaine François LumppA darker crimson ruby. The bouquet is more opaque, less pure pinot but with significant density, needing time to emerge. The fruit weight is evenly distributed across the palate with the feeling of iron oxide thickening the texture. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Clos du Cras Long 1er Cru, Domaine François Lumpp | Apr 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Clos du Cras Long 1er Cru, Domaine François LumppDark red purple. Slightly more floral in bouquet again with the usual intensity. A rich and deep core yet with an energy to the fruit, even some floral edges. While Clos du Cras Long has not yet quite opened out fully, the quality is clearly there for the medium to longer term. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry A Vigne Rouge 1er Cru, Domaine François Lumpp | Apr 2024 | Red | 92 | ||||||||
2022, Givry A Vigne Rouge 1er Cru, Domaine François LumppA bright mid ruby with additional density and class. All in dark, but fresh, berry fruit, a fine thread of acidity through the middle, certainly the most complete wine. I would prefer to give this five years. Drink from 2028-2032. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Domaine Mia
HideI was able to have a rapid tasting of some wines from Domaine MIA at the Grands Jours de Bourgogne event. MIA is not a TLA (three letter acronym) but the name of the owner’s daughter. The domaine is certified organic, and has 17ha in Mercurey and 2ha in Rully, 70% red wine overall, with the winemaking overseen by David Duband, in the winery based in Nuits-St-Georges. The red wines spend 14 months in barrel, with 30% new wood, having been vinified with 60% whole bunches.
White
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| 2022 | Mercurey Les Rochelles, Domaine MIA | Mar 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Les Rochelles, Domaine MIAMid lemon yellow, with not much bouquet in evidence as yet. This, and all the white wines, have 12 months barrel ageing with 15-20% new wood. Attractive wine behind, with persistence and a lemon thread. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Les Caudroyes, Domaine MIA | Mar 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Les Caudroyes, Domaine MIAOne of the domaine’s four hectares of Les Caudroyes has been planted with chardonnay. Like Les Rochelles, not much bouquet is immediately evident, though the plate offers a riper fuller fruit with some ripe citrus including orange rind. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Les Plantenets, Domaine MIA | Mar 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Les Plantenets, Domaine MIAMid lemon yellow. Prettily perfumed, indeed a more evident bouquet here. Very pretty white fruit with adequate acidity, while vigorous acidity contributes to the length. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Mercurey Les Caudroyes, Domaine MIA | Mar 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Les Caudroyes, Domaine MIAPale edge to the colour, with a beautifully gracious nose, reflective of the whole bunch policy. This has the intensity to go with the class, and still has plenty in reserve. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Clos La Marche, Domaine MIA | Mar 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Clos La Marche, Domaine MIAAlso a pale ruby colour. Very pretty once again more on the fruit less floral. Graceful and balanced yet very much full of fruit, both strawberry and raspberry. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Les Vasées 1er Cru, Domaine MIA | Mar 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Les Vasées 1er Cru, Domaine MIAThe same pale colour and fragrant bouquet. Will the palate deliver more? Yes, by combining the floral aspects and the fruit of the two preceding wines. Long and stylish. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Domaine de la Monette
HideThis is a new name for me, and it turns out that this 12.5ha Mercurey-based domaine was only purchased by Pierre-Etienne Chevallier in December 2022, so the 2023 vintage was his first. Other cuvees produced include whites Mercurey Les Obus and 1er Cru Griffères, and in red a village Givry and three further Mercureys. However just three wines were on offer to taste in London in January 2025.
White
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| 2023 | Bouzeron Les Fias, Domaine de la Monette | Jan 2025 | White | 87 | ||||||||
2023, Bouzeron Les Fias, Domaine de la MonettePale lemon in colour, with a smoky and nutty bouquet, then slightly salty on the palate. Drink from 2025-2026. Tasted Jan 2025. |
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| 2023 | Bourgogne Chardonnay, Domaine de la Monette | Jan 2025 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2023, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Domaine de la MonetteThe chardonnay vines are also in Bouzeron. Clear in colour, with crisp white fruit on the nose, then notably more fruit energy in the mouth than the Bouzeron, building to the back of the palate. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Jan 2025. |
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Red
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| 2023 | Mercurey Les Bourguignons, Domaine de la Monette | Jan 2025 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2023, Mercurey Les Bourguignons, Domaine de la MonetteFrom a mid-slope vineyard on red clay and limestone. The colour shows a dense dark purple, but the wine does not come across as over extracted, just full of vibrant fruit. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Jan 2025. |
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Domaine Mouton
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This was my first visit to the domaine, though I have tasted Laurent Mouton’s wines before at salons on several occasions. Though he started picking early, on 26th August, the wines were already at or even a little above 14% by then, so some wines have worked better than others.
White
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| 2022 | Givry, Domaine Mouton | Mar 2024 | White | 85 | ||||||||
2022, Givry, Domaine MoutonFrom Champ Pourot, made in stainless steel. Light attractive colour, a little bit nutty on the nose, but then you feel a touch of warmth behind, causing the Givry to come across rather on the chunky side at the finish. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Excellence, Domaine Mouton | Mar 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Excellence, Domaine MoutonThe wooded version of Givry, with 20% new oak, the rest two-year-old 400-litre barrels. The wine has more colour and the wood is quite present, helpfully taming the higher alcohol, while the fruit delivers enough body. It is still an overtly oaked wine but works in its style. More saline finish thanks to a little more tension. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Coteaux Bourguignons Les Fourneaux | Mar 2024 | Red | 85 | ||||||||
2022, Coteaux Bourguignons Les FourneauxAll pinot noir, young vines. Made with 25% new wood, the rest two-year-old. 14% on the label but probably nearer 14.5% despite ground cover in 2022. Deep purple core, nutty dark fruit on the nose, then a little fresher in ripe raspberry and strawberry, still a bit firm at the back. Just enough acidity. Bottled in June 2023 with the whites. Drink from 2024-2025. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry, Domaine Mouton | Mar 2024 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Givry, Domaine MoutonOlder vines, good pinot quality, 70% aged in tank and the rest two-year-old wood. Separate plots vinified apart then blended. Rich bright purple, more in red fruit after the chunky Coteaux Bourguignons. Grows on me with peonies as well as ripe red berry fruit. Good length, a slight youthful bitterness, but there is excellent heart to the wine. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Clos Charlé 1er Cru, Domaine Mouton | Mar 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Clos Charlé 1er Cru, Domaine Mouton25% new wood, 75% two-year-old. Not quite so deep in colour, with an engaging nose, fresh raspberry, with a little nuttiness. Just over 14%, full strawberry on the palate, no real feeling of heat but nor is it as gentle and graceful as it wants to be. Just give it a little longer to settle down. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Grande Berge 1er Cru, Domaine Mouton | Mar 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Grande Berge 1er Cru, Domaine Mouton60-year-old vines in a site which used to be hard to ripen when Laurent started (around 2000). 14% again but with good acidity. 50% new wood and 50% one year old (rare because of 2021) with minimal toast. A dense crimson colour, the oak is not too evident. A saline limestone note as well. All comes together rather nicely at the finish. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Clos Jus 1er Cru, Domaine Mouton | Mar 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Clos Jus 1er Cru, Domaine Mouton40% new wood, 60% one year old. I am told that there are more stones at his end of Clos Jus, and also at the southern band, less in the middle, but iron rich red soil throughout. Crimson colour. A darker raspberry with a little bit of cherry, good acidity at the back while the tannins integrate well. A rich version of Givry that holds together well. Very tasty finish. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Les Grands Prétans 1er Cru, Domaine Mouton | Mar 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Les Grands Prétans 1er Cru, Domaine MoutonLaurent Mouton notes that this site is on interesting soil at the mouth of the valley. Density from the clay, so he ferments longer with a little bit more cool pre-maceration. 80% new wood, 20% one year old. A wine that needs keeping. The nose is relatively opaque though still red fruit rather than black. A fine and even generosity across the palate, seems balanced at the finish, though developing a slightly more animal character, offset by useful acidity Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Domaine Ninot
HideI have never tasted at the domaine but on the strength of this showing, from samples tasted during the London Burgundy week, I definitely should. Third generation Errel joined the domaine in 2003 and her brother Flavien in 2012. They have converted to organic farming, with certification in 2020. Interesting wines with some delicacy in the style.
White
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| 2023 | Rully Blanc La Barre, Domaine Ninot | Jan 2025 | White | 85 | ||||||||
2023, Rully Blanc La Barre, Domaine NinotMid lemon yellow. Some apples on the nose and palate but also with a caramel note, so a feeling of imperfect balance, at least in this sample. Tasted Jan 2025. |
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| 2023 | Rully Blanc Chaponnière, Domaine Ninot | Jan 2025 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2023, Rully Blanc Chaponnière, Domaine NinotA fresher pale lemon. The Chaponnière comes across as a very clean cut Rully, floral as much as fruit driven on the nose, though the typical Rully apple notes emerge on the palate. There is a fine long aftertaste. The oak is beautifully integrated. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Jan 2025. |
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Red
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| 2023 | Rully Chaponnière, Domaine Ninot | Jan 2025 | Red | 87 | ||||||||
2023, Rully Chaponnière, Domaine NinotA pale to mid red colour. This starts out as a typically light red Rully, but does gain a little depth on the palate. Crisp red fruit on the palate, with some refinement. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Jan 2025. |
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| 2023 | Rully Le Meix Guillaume, Domaine Ninot | Jan 2025 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2023, Rully Le Meix Guillaume, Domaine NinotWhile Le Meix Guillaume is still light in colour, the depth of fruit is just a little more concentrated than Chaponnière. There is tension too, so this will have the capacity to age for a little longer. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Jan 2025. |
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| 2023 | Rully Marissou 1er Cru, Domaine Ninot | Jan 2025 | Red | 88-90 | ||||||||
2023, Rully Marissou 1er Cru, Domaine NinotFrom a half hectare plot planted in 1966 and 1970. A little deeper red crimson colour, with a range of redcurrant and raspberry fruit on the nose, and some mid palate sweetness, with good length. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Jan 2025. |
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| 2023 | Mercurey Les Saumonts 1er Cru, Domaine Ninot | Jan 2025 | Red | 87-89 | ||||||||
2023, Mercurey Les Saumonts 1er Cru, Domaine NinotMid crimson fruit. The fruit is less refined on the nose than Marissou, but with both strawberry and raspberry notes on the palate. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Jan 2025. |
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| 2023 | Mercurey Les Velleys 1er Cru, Domaine Ninot | Jan 2025 | Red | 89-91 | ||||||||
2023, Mercurey Les Velleys 1er Cru, Domaine NinotAn attractive colour of medium depth, fresher on the nose than Les Saumonts. There is an energetic deep red fruit on the palate, still with Mercurey tannins, but these are finer. Excellent length, les Velleys is worth the small premium over the other Ninot 1ers Crus. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Jan 2025. |
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Domaine Ragot
HideThis range of 2022s was tasted during the Grands Jours de Bourgogne in March 2024, immediately after the wines had been bottled. This is a domaine whose wines I have been enjoying in recent years, so I was pleased to hear that Nicolas Ragot has gained some vines in Les Teppes de Chenevres and Grands Prétans, as well as replanting abandoned vines behind and above Clos Salomon. He is an early picker, so the balance of these wines suits me.
White
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| 2022 | Givry Champ Pourot, Domaine Ragot | Mar 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Champ Pourot, Domaine RagotMade in a mix of barrel, foudre, demi-muid and amphoras, touching almost all the bases. Pale in colour, attractive with the light liquorice touch. Quite complex behind with flesh and a fresh finish. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Teppe des Chenèves, Domaine Ragot | Mar 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Teppe des Chenèves, Domaine RagotThe wine from this upper hillside vineyard is made in demi-muid and amphora to avoid it taking on too much wood. Compared to Champ Pourrot the Teppe de Chenèves has a little more weight, lemon with the liquorice and good length. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Clos Jus 1er Cru, Domaine Ragot | Mar 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Clos Jus 1er Cru, Domaine RagotThe Crausot is made in demi-muids, of which one third are new. Clear in colour with a clean bouquet including some traces of vanilla from the oak. The fruit builds very well on the palate, white fruit with a mineral underlay. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Givry Tradition, Domaine Ragot | Mar 2024 | Red | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Tradition, Domaine RagotAged in foudre and barrels, with 10% new. Fullish purple in colour, with some depth of fruit on the nose, but backward. At the moment the Givry is somewhat angular on the palate, more a question of youth as there is a fair 87weight of fruit. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Ragot | Mar 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Vieilles Vignes, Domaine RagotThe Vieilles Vignes cuvee is treated to one third new wood. The oak shows in the rich, deep purple colour, and the youthful dark fruit intensity. This is a wine with significant structure, which the fruit weight can carry. It just needs a little longer. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Teppe des Chenèves, Domaine Ragot | Mar 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Teppe des Chenèves, Domaine RagotVinified with 20% whole bunches, then aged with 50% new wood and an amphora. Bright purple in colour. Intense from the oak, without an overdose of vanilla or drying out. The intensity works well here because of the lifted quality of the raspberry fruit. You see the oak at the back, but only just. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry La Grande Berge 1er Cru, Domaine Ragot | Mar 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Givry La Grande Berge 1er Cru, Domaine RagotVinified with 25% whole bunches, then aged with 40% new wood and an amphora. Another glowing purple colour. The dark and concentrated raspberry fruit is slightly fuller through the middle, as indeed one expects from a 1er Cru. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Clos Jus 1er Cru, Domaine Ragot | Mar 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Clos Jus 1er Cru, Domaine RagotNicolas Ragot prefers to use a heavier toast for his new barrels for the Clos Jus, which has a lovely and lively deep crimson purple colour. The bouquet shows some of the lifted character of whole bunch vinification (25%, for the first time) and the fruit comes across as generous and exciting even though there is obviously a lot of oak, which it can handle. I appreciate the excellent length of the finish. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Mar 2024. |
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Albert Sounit
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Now owned and managed by Søren Nørbjerg, Albert Sounit are making advances in consistency, quality and presentation. He has invested in extending the cuverie, finished for the 2023 vintage, with temperature controlled vats, and punching down machinery. Humidifiers have been installed in the ground floor cellar at Montagny. He has also redesigned and standardised the labels, to include the ancient cedar tree. The next stop is with the vineyard team, where they are taking a look at regenerative viticulture. They have 16ha of their own, supplemented by 10-12 ha of purchased fruit. The Montagny wines are from their own vineyards, while the Mercurey is a partnership where they can decide the picking date. Just over half production is crémant, with a little more white than red for the rest.
White
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Les Vignes de la Roche | Apr 2024 | White | 86 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Les Vignes de la RocheFrom around Montagny including a proportion of that appellation. Mid lemon yellow. The bouquet is immediately quite powerful with plush peachy notes backed by some barrel toast, even a light reduction on the wood. Some peaches again on the aftertaste. Attractive if commercial. Drink from 2024-2025. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Les Vignes de Château Beau | Apr 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Les Vignes de Château BeauThe Mercurey spends 12 months in young barrels (10% new), which can be seen on the nose where a vanilla note is prominent. This remains the case on the palate alongside a medium to full white fruit and a saline note to finish. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Le Pinacle | Apr 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Le PinacleFrom a 1990 planting. 9 months in barrel, 25% new, 75% one year old. Pale lemon and lime. The nose displays a considerable intensity of fruit, overlaid by a little too much oak. On the palate the fruit starts out the stronger component but the oak brings up the rear, a toasty style of vanilla. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Les Coères 1er Cru, Domaine Albert Sounit | Apr 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Les Coères 1er Cru, Domaine Albert Sounit10% in 300 litre barrels, the rest in stainless steel. The Sounit team are looking to promote the minerality of this 1er Cru in contrast to Les Chaniots. Mid lemon yellow. There is still a faint toastiness but otherwise it is the fruit which dominates, with its slightly marine character. All white orchard fruit, with a saline touch and a little citrus. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny Les Chaniots 1er Cru, Domaine Albert Sounit | Apr 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny Les Chaniots 1er Cru, Domaine Albert SounitA fresh glowing lemon and lime, livelier in colour than Les Coères. Here the oak (11 months in barrel, 20% new wood) has much less of an overt role to play than it did in Le Pinacle. It supports and blends in with the high class fruit really well. Vines from 45 to 70 years old. A luxury texture of cream and taffeta, showing the oak a little more now but give this a year or two and it will all integrate into a fine Montagny. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Montagny 1er Cru Vignes de 1928, Domaine Albert Sounit | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Montagny 1er Cru Vignes de 1928, Domaine Albert SounitAged in 300 litre barrels from Chassin for 11 months with 30% new, then three months in tank. Quite a full yellow colour, with plenty of oak defining the nose. It is a bit too powerful for the moment but the intensity of the core fruit will carry it further down the road. A fine natural acidity complements the white fruit with a slight peachy aspect. Apparently the near centenarian vines are holding up well. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully La Bergerie, Albert Sounit | Apr 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Rully La Bergerie, Albert SounitA fine glowing but pale lemon and lime. Quite a discreet bouquet, not too oaky (aged for 9 months with 15% new). Traditional Rully apple notes are there and the wine delivers a fine personality with good length based on some citrus and apple acidity at the back of the palate. Well made and makes one salivate. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully Les St Jacques, Albert Sounit | Apr 2024 | White | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Les St Jacques, Albert SounitPurchased grapes from a plot planted in 1985. Aged for 10 months in barrel (15% new). Mid straw colour with quite some weight on the palate. There is more flesh here, with an opulent style of grapiness rather than the leaner apple notes. Good acidity behind. Just a little much too oak presence but it does not spoil the wine. Exotic floral topnotes. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Rully La Pucelle, Albert Sounit | Apr 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Rully La Pucelle, Albert SounitPale in colour. Despite being aged for 11 months in 30% new wood, it is the fruit which comes out on top, classy and much more austere than Les St-Jacques. All the constituent parts are in logical order, until a slight overdose of vanilla at the finish. But this wine should have the core fruit material to overcome that with time. Especially as the saline thread of acidity finds its way through to the finish. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2018 | Crémant de Bourgogne Grande Cuvée, Grand Eminent, Domaine Albert Sounit | Apr 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2018, Crémant de Bourgogne Grande Cuvée, Grand Eminent, Domaine Albert SounitA full fresh lemon yellow. 20% in large used oak barrels, five years before disgorging. This sample was disgorged in January 2024. A beautiful chardonnay nose, not too creamy yet still with opulence. Medium bodied with good acidity, less flavour on the palate, and a little broader than say a chardonnay champagne. Drink from 2025-2026. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise, Domaine Albert Sounit | Apr 2024 | Red | 86 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise, Domaine Albert SounitVines from two plots, up to 70 years old. Intense purple, rather extractive and a bit lactic. Cold maceration style. A dark berry fruit on the palate, some black cherry notes and some fresher red fruit. But all a bit on the intense side, albeit with good acidity. Some length but a lighter approach could be more exciting. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givrey En Choué, Albert Sounit | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Givrey En Choué, Albert SounitA fine ruby purple, not as intense as the Bourgogne. The bouquet too is a little more open with softer red berried fruits, but the cold maceration quality is never far away. I like the generosity of the fruit across the palate, and the oak, despite being 50% new and 50% one year old, does not penetrate too far. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Vieilles Vignes, Albert Sounit | Apr 2024 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Vieilles Vignes, Albert SounitHalf new oak, for 12 months, half recent barrels. A fine mid ruby colour with some concentration. Here the oak is actually a little more present, alongside the fuller body of Mercurey. The predominantly dark red fruit takes the upper hand on the palate, with tannins as well as acidity giving the structural backdrop. Recognisably Mercurey with some intensity and structure for medium plus ageing. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Clos des Montaigus 1er Cru, Albert Sounit | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Clos des Montaigus 1er Cru, Albert SounitA glowing fresh crimson purple. The bouquet has considerable energy in its dark berry fruit style, though the oak is a little more present. The oak blends better on the palate with a good grain, and now it is a fresher red berry fruit, raspberries in particular, that develops on the palate. Good length, attractively balanced, lighter in tannins and acidity than the Vieilles Vignes but with enough of both. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey NOBLESSE, Albert Sounit | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey NOBLESSE, Albert SounitFrom En Boussoy. 12 months in 100% new oak, then three more in tank to blend. Five barrels made in 2022. Quite a full ruby crimson colour, with evidently such a volume of concentrated fruit that the oak is not allowed to dominate, though you can see it is there. Good acidity here and supple tannins, plus an explosion of rich red cherry and raspberries – an entirely red fruit wine. Very good length. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Domaine de Suremain
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I tasted with the laughing rugbyman, as I have dubbed Loïc de Suremain, who joined his father in 2004 and took over entirely from 2017. We tasted the 2022 vintage, the whites bottled before the next harvest, and the reds between December and March. Loic has learnt to start early enough so as to avoid finishing too late, as a result of which the wines are no more than 13.5% in 2022, from a crop that came in below 40 hl/ha. Loïc notes that he is looking for the joy of Pinot, a mix of generous red fruit and structure. The reds are destemmed.
White
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| 2022 | Mercurey, Domaine de Suremain | Apr 2024 | White | 86 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey, Domaine de SuremainAll new wood (500-litre size) from gifted cooper Eric Millard, with a light toast to avoid marking the wine. There were no one year old barrels as they had not been able to make a 2021 after the frost. Pale with a lime green tint., A touch of vanilla on the nose and some opulent fruit as well. Plasticine flavours? A bit bizarre, good acidity though. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey En Sazenay 1er Cru, Domaine de Suremain | Apr 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey En Sazenay 1er Cru, Domaine de SuremainEn Sazenay has been made almost entirely in a new large barrel, though fermentation begins in stainless steel. There is a little bit of lemongrass in the nose, but overall this is a more classic white fruited chardonnay, with energy and limestone tension. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Mercurey, Domaine de Suremain | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey, Domaine de SuremainMade from plots around the house. A rich dense darker purple. Slightly nutty dark fruit, but while the nose currently lacks a little freshness, this does deliver though on the palate, with a fresh lemon note amid the vibrant strawberry fruit. Punchy but it works. Really quite persistent. The bouquet should catch up later. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Les Crêts 1er Cru, Domaine de Suremain | Apr 2024 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Les Crêts 1er Cru, Domaine de SuremainHigh on the slope, south facing, on white soil – in fact Loïc has planted some chardonnay here recently. A remarkably rich fulsome purple nonetheless. Rich plump dark fruit, just a little drying at the finish, not quite filling out the middle. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Les Croichots 1er Cru, Domaine de Suremain | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Les Croichots 1er Cru, Domaine de SuremainSouth-south-east facing at mid slope with good deep soil on top of blue marlstone. A fine even ruby purple. The bouquet is more stylish with some Griotte cherries. A more even balance all round, all parts of the palate covered, a good thread of acidity with tension and fine persistence. Loïc suggests this would partner a Cote de boeuf, but my thoughts veered towards chargrilled lamb with herbs. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey Clos L’Evêque 1er Cru, Domaine de Suremain | Apr 2024 | Red | 92 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Clos L’Evêque 1er Cru, Domaine de SuremainEast facing, high on the slope, a vineyard which ripens early. Loïc finds the wine more like a Côte de Beaune, with a floral character. A glowing imperial purple, with a really classy bouquet, elegance with power behind. Fresh acidity, not too powerful in fruit or heat, good length, well balanced at 13% alcohol. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey La Bondue 1er Cru, Domaine de Suremain | Apr 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey La Bondue 1er Cru, Domaine de SuremainLocated at mid slope, facing due east , with just 50cm of red soil on top of the limestone rock, which concentrates the wine and the flavours. Another vivid purple, with a slightly more opaque nose. More tannins, a little blood orange, firmer structure all round. A fine, concentrated, vin de garde. Drink from 2028-2032. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey En Sazenay 1er Cru, Domaine de Suremain | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey En Sazenay 1er Cru, Domaine de SuremainClay with yellow marl here. An even deep purple. More tension on the nose, spicy with a dark red-purple fruit. Plenty of energy, again a structure combined of both tannins and acidity. More mineral and more spicy. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Mercurey La Bondue Generation VII 1er Cru, Domaine de Suremain | Apr 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey La Bondue Generation VII 1er Cru, Domaine de Suremain70 year old vines from grandfather’s selection massale. The cuvee was first made and bottled separately in 2018. There is just one 500-litre barrel from Chassin, who prepares the barrel after tasting the new wine. 18 months elevage. At the moment the new barrel has slightly distorted the nose, but this will pass. There is a great wealth of fruit in the mouth, more black fruit but with some red berry notes and excellent tension. Plenty of acidity, while the tannins are well managed. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Domaine Thénard
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I tasted with André Bordeaux-Montrieux, and his father Jean-Jacques. There is a bit of innovation going on with the new generation involved, though the domaine retains its classical appeal, with all the massive ancient foudres, and a long ageing program, for two years before racking. Vineyard practices are being ameliorated with some use of cover crops which can be mowed. A big improvement on herbicides!
White
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| 2022 | Givry, Domaine Thenard | Apr 2024 | White | 87-89 | ||||||||
2022, Givry, Domaine ThenardThough sold as a straight Givry, around half the fruit comes from 1er Cru vineyards. Mid lemon yellow, with a touch of oak showing on the nose. Ripe lemon rind, quite classy, and certainly with plenty of intensity Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Clos du Cellier aux Moines 1er Cru, Domaine Thenard | Apr 2024 | White | 87-90 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Clos du Cellier aux Moines 1er Cru, Domaine ThenardFine lemon and lime, a little oak, waxy in a good way, then drier wood tannins behind. Attractive orchard fruit in a lighter register. A second sample was a little less together. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Chassagne-Montrachet Clos St-Jean 1er Cru, Domaine Thenard | Apr 2024 | White | 88-90 | ||||||||
2022, Chassagne-Montrachet Clos St-Jean 1er Cru, Domaine ThenardThis comes from the Rebichets subdivision, which is the part of Clos St-Jean most suited to white wine. Clear mid lemon yellow. Stylish, clean and fresh, with a little lemon touch to the orchard fruit. No great density but pleasing and quite long. Drink from 2027-2031. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Grand Cru, Domaine Thenard | Apr 2024 | White | 92-95 | ||||||||
2022, Grand Cru, Domaine ThenardPale lemon and lime. A nose of great dignity and absolute purity. Never gets too big on you but it fills the mouth with a pure white fruit and just a little almond. This from two year old Chassin. Richer plummier and with some baked apple in a two year old Cadus barrel. Then from a Rousseau Video new barrel, the Montrachet came across as firm up front, then a flowing generosity of pear fruit behind and a touch more tropical. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Givry, Domaine Thenard | Apr 2024 | Red | 90-91 | ||||||||
2022, Givry, Domaine ThenardHalf the fruit is at village level and half from 1er Cru vines. Glowing fresh red. A lovely bouquet with a purity of fruit, cherries and floral notes, plus a chalky grain. Will be fascinating to see how this progresses but I would certainly sign up for what I see here and now. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Clos du Cellier aux Moines 1er Cru, Domaine Thenard | Apr 2024 | Red | 88-90 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Clos du Cellier aux Moines 1er Cru, Domaine ThenardBlend from foudre and barrel, the latter just racked to tank. Bottling was due in June or July 2024. This is darker in colour and bouquet, not quite the purity of the village wine. Lots going on here, dark fruit, chalky element, middleweight plus, with a slight furriness to the texture, while the long finish suggests that this may well prove to be a more exciting wine by the time it is cleaned up for bottling. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Clos St-Pierre 1er Cru, Domaine Thenard | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Clos St-Pierre 1er Cru, Domaine ThenardIn bottle since November, having been all in barrel not foudre. Quite a concentrated crimson with a firm dark red fruit bouquet of some quality. Slightly ungiving, yet with excellent tension, good acidity. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Pernand-Vergelesses Ile de Vergelesses 1er Cru, Domaine Thenard | Apr 2024 | Red | 89-92 | ||||||||
2022, Pernand-Vergelesses Ile de Vergelesses 1er Cru, Domaine ThenardFrom barrel. Not the darkest colour, but beautifully elegant on the nose. There are just a few rather grainy tannins on the palate but these will resolve leaving a very fine quality of fruit. Drink from 2027-2033. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru, Domaine Thenard | Apr 2024 | Red | 91-94 | ||||||||
2022, Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru, Domaine ThenardMore red than purple. Still the finesse of the Pernand Ile de Vergelesses but with more weight to the fruit. Is there quite enough for this Grand Cru? A fair question, yet on balance I like the length, and this is capable of growing further. I find in favour. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Grands Echezeaux Grand Cu, Domaine Thenard | Apr 2024 | Red | 92-95 | ||||||||
2022, Grands Echezeaux Grand Cu, Domaine ThenardAnother fine bright ruby colour. The oak speaks a little along with the flamboyant hedonism of a Côte de Nuits Grand Cru. Firm wood tannins speaking loudly at the moment but they do not really impact the fruit. Good length. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Givry Les Boix Chevaux 1er Cru, Domaine Thenard | Apr 2024 | Red | 89-91 | ||||||||
2022, Givry Les Boix Chevaux 1er Cru, Domaine ThenardFrom a recent foudre (2020). A much brighter and fresher vigorous purple. Very good tension here, clearly needing longer but I like the intensity of dark red fruit, energy and persistence. There is no significant difference in the barrel component except that it seems a little more tannic and oakier. Drink from 2027-2031. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Domaine de Villaine
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Pierre de Benoist always likes to show the wines which the domaine is selling through the year, which in 2024 means 2022 for regional and village wines, and 2021 for the 1ers Crus, of which there are very few because of the frost. In fact, all the white Rullys have been grouped together into one wine. However Pierre is very happy with 2022. He felt that it was possible to choose the harvest date without being rushed into it, starting on 31st August.
White
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| 2022 | Rully Les St-Jacques, Domaine A & P de Villaine | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2022, Rully Les St-Jacques, Domaine A & P de VillainePale lemon colour. A more austere nose than Les Clous Aimé, with the apple characteristics of the appellation. There is a fine depth of white fruit on the palate, broadening the texture at the back of the palate, with a perfect acid balance. Very nicely done. They worked hard to keep the yield down from pruning onwards – no more than 30 hl/ha. One foudre made with a few barrels alongside. 13% alcohol. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise Les Clous Aimés, Domaine A&P de Villaine | Apr 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise Les Clous Aimés, Domaine A&P de VillaineChardonnay grown in Bouzeron, and given the same vinification as the Aligoté. Chardonnay is thickening its skins in these warmer times, enabling Pierre to work with the bitter notes of the skin in the face of lower acidity. Pale colour with a light green tint. Fascinating perfume, actually more interesting than the Bouzeron I find. You can see the bitters to come, along with a floral top note and a white orchard fruit core. There is a lot happening in this wine, with a delicious light biscuit note adding further complexity. Ripe at 13% but correctly so, and finishes by leaving a fresh taste in the mouth. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bouzeron, Domaine A & P de Villaine | Apr 2024 | White | 87 | ||||||||
2022, Bouzeron, Domaine A & P de VillaineMade from 17 plots from nine lieux-dits, vinified in foudre. Clear pale colour. A smoother bouquet than a Bouzeron of the past, then some plum skins arrive, to give the wines more grip. White fruit with fair acidity, more flesh than one might expect. I am not convinced that I am fully understanding this. 13% alcohol. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2021 | St-Aubin Perrières 1er Cru, Domaine A & P de Villaine | Apr 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2021, St-Aubin Perrières 1er Cru, Domaine A & P de Villaine15% new wood from demi-muids. Pierre always picks this plot very late, often with the last of the Aligotés. A little fatter and fleshier than some wines in 2021. In part this is the wood effect, with a touch of sandalwood. The wine and the wood are not yet fully married. 13% alcohol. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2021 | Rully 1er Cru, Domaine A&P de Villaine | Apr 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2021, Rully 1er Cru, Domaine A&P de VillaineAll six 1ers crus have been united in just one wine, because of the frost! Vinified in foudre. Pale lemon yellow. An immediately accessible bouquet, with a lifted note that recalls Montpalais and a solid generosity throughout. Fully ready for business and will be a delight to drink. A good fruit-acid balance is once again evident. Lightly saline to finish. A memory of the ancient sea, says Pierre. A sensible way to have managed 2021. 13% alcohol. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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Red
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| 2022 | Mercurey Les Montots, Domaine A&P de Villaine | Apr 2024 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Mercurey Les Montots, Domaine A&P de VillaineThis vineyard will be lost back to the owner after the 2025 harvest. A darker purple. Sterner fruit, a nutty note dark raspberry, a bit of spice behind. 40% whole bunch, longish cuvaison. Iron rich soil, plays its part. 14% alcohol. Drink from 2026-2031. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise La Digoine, Domaine A&P de Villaine | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise La Digoine, Domaine A&P de VillaineNo deeper in colour than la Fortune, though it usually is. A deep cherry fruit on the nose, and a significant weight on the palate, with a more severe, even furry, note in the mouth. 40% whole bunch, which still needs digesting. Touch of sandalwood too. Not so harmonious now, but there is more promise here for the longer term. 13.5% alcohol. Drink from 2027-2031. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise Les Clous, Domaine A&P de Villaine | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise Les Clous, Domaine A&P de VillaineA glowing, even purple. A slight nuttiness to the nose along with copious red fruit. More limestone than clay here compared to La Fortune. 40% whole bunch and a fresher wine throughout. Rather lovely finish. 13% alcohol. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2022 | Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise La Fortune, Domaine A&P de Villaine | Apr 2024 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2022, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise La Fortune, Domaine A&P de VillaineRich purple, lots of energy, quite a lot of new wood as well. Suave on the palate, more density than is typical of La Fortune, definitely some tannins behind to give grip. This will need at least a couple of years. 40% whole bunch in 2022, which is usual. 14% alcohol. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2021 | Rully Cloux 1er Cru, Domaine A&P de Villaine | Apr 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2021, Rully Cloux 1er Cru, Domaine A&P de VillaineA prettier medium crimson and with a much prettier nose, where the reduction just influences a faint note. Very stylish cherry fruit with a clean savoury note, some black currants. Very stylish all the way through, the fruit growing in class more than intensity, really a beautifully made red 2021. 13% alcohol. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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| 2021 | Rully Les Champs Cloux 1er Cru, Domaine A&P de Villaine | Apr 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2021, Rully Les Champs Cloux 1er Cru, Domaine A&P de VillaineMid crimson. A strong reduction, to a level which may not dissipate. Pierre notes that this cuvee is frequently reductive. Rather more enjoyable in the mouth, with strawberry and a livelier raspberry, and a pleasing finish. Just the nose is currently suffering. 13% alcohol. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. |
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