Jasper Morris March 2024

I tasted the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2021 vintage in bottle at a small, seated, session for journalists organised at the domaine in late November 2023. Bertrand de Villaine and Perrine Fenal were there to respond to questions and to enjoy our appreciative murmurs, for this range of wines from the 2021 vintage showed that the domaine has come through what was undoubtedly a difficult growing season with a positive outcome. The wines were bottled between December 2022 and May 2023 so had had at least six months in which to settle down.

The domaine's vintage report indicates that the frost cut production by 50% in Vosne-Romanée, 80% in Corton and 90% for the Montrachet and Corton-Charlemagne. (Elsewhere in the report, the Montrachet yield is described as 4 barrels instead of the usual 10, which in fact equates to a 60% reduction, yet the yield is quoted as 7 hl/ha whereas four barrels would be 13.5 hl/ha. More research needed!) The Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Petits Monts was not produced.

The domaine had the courage to go all out with 100% whole bunch vinification and 100% new barrels for all wines. In general, in Burgundy, much less new oak was used in 2021, so this was a bold decision, which I think has nonetheless worked. This is a very fine collection of 2021s, where it is important not to confuse the lightness of touch with a lack of intensity. Two or three wines are more backward in style than their stable mates, and may yet blossom beyond the ratings I have given.