Deep flinty reduction melds with leesy notes of salty hard cheese and sourdough to start in a surprisingly savoury opening. A welcome push of fruit emerges with air in the form of pear, lime, grapefruit and nectarine with cinnamon and citrus preserves in support. Good intensity to the palate, which similarly bursts with a mix of leesy savouriness and driven fruit. Pastry dough, cedar, lime, nectarine, pink grapefruit and sea salt power through the mouth before a tight furl of lemony phenolics and piercing saline acidity cut the fat and draw length. A more worked style in their chardonnay stable, and as such not for the faint of heart, but with loads of shape and structure to frame it. It all feels a bit nervy now, however, and I’d be interested to see this with age.