Sauteed mushroom, herb butter, oyster shell, makrut lime leaf and sea salt leap out of the glass with classic Garagiste energy. Some subtle kerosine beneath. The palate is rich and concentrated with lashings of lemon butter at the fore, followed by toast, preserved lime, subtle mushroom, and white peach. Loads of texture and tertiary interest, but swept up and pulled into linearity by a wash of bright acidity and pithy phenolics. This is in a great place where tertiary complexity is kept in check by youthful verve and structure.