The Montrachet is back after a year’s frost absence, one new barrel of 400 litres from two ouvrées. It has not fallen fully clear, having been racked once in August, and now continuing its maturation on fine lees. The wood shows a little but goodness me, so does the power. It certainly doesn’t come up short at first, but then kicks on to give so much more power thereafter. Fresh apricots, acidity, great volume. I am going to be conservative and stop just short of the full five stars.