Intuition is an enthralling psychological and cognitive phenomenon. It’s the intangible knowing. The hair-raising and goosebump-inducing moments in time where one is wholly consumed by crystalline clarity around a specific path to take. The right path. And yet, despite its cerebral and sub-conscious origins, intuition manifests itself elsewhere in the body. Your gut. Your skin. Your bones. 

‘We’ve got to have this’ were the collective words uttered by cousins Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith MW upon entry to the Tolpuddle Vineyard site in 2011. The intangible knowing. The feeling in the bones. But what led them down the right path? “We had no intention of buying a vineyard”, says Shaw 14 years on as we amble the long, even, north-east facing slope. It’s an idyllic and resplendent blue sky day in the Coal River Valley, around 30 minutes’ drive north east of Hobart. And despite the moderate 25 degree heat, there’s a bite to the bright sunshine on account of the clear skies, low humidity and high UV of southern Tasmania.

Shaw’s casual utterance speaks to the impulsive and serendipitous nature of their Tolpuddle Vineyard purchase, and it’s difficult to fathom how easily it could’ve been missed given the indelible mark it’s made on Tasmanian – indeed Australian – wine.  This was during a time when Tasmanian Chardonnay and Pinot Noir was starting to make waves on the Australian wine media circuit, such that it prompted a reconnaissance trip south from the Shaw + Smith stables in the Adelaide Hills where the two had risen to vinous fame. 

“The Coal River Valley is cold but dry”, continues Shaw, “it’s cooler than Burgundy but warmer than Champagne”. The dryness is evident. There’s been little rain in the Valley for months now which is normal given Tasmania’s winter-dominant rainfall. However, this is compounded in the Coal River Valley by a rain shadow effect thanks to the mountains to the west, making it one of the driest regions on the island.

Further visits ensued, including a pivotal one to Accolade-owned Bay of Fires, where then-winemaker Peter Dredge presented barrel samples from vineyards across Tasmania that supplied fruit to Accolade. The wines that excited the pair most came from the Tolpuddle Vineyard which Accolade were using for premium offerings such as Eileen Hardy Chardonnay and House of Arras sparkling wines. The culmination of this was the all-important visit to the site that captured the two so viscerally.

Tolpuddle Vineyard was named after the Tolpuddle Martyrs – six English convicts that were transported to Australia in 1834 for attempting to form an agricultural union. The vineyard sits on land where their leader, George Loveless, served part of his sentence. 150 odd years later, the original ten hectares of vines were planted to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in 1988 by Tony Jordan, Gary Crittenden and Bill Casimaty with the intention of growing fruit for sparkling base, as was typical of the era. They clearly knew their craft, and fruit from the site went on to command some of the highest prices in Australia. 

The potential for greatness in a table wine capacity was evident to Shaw and Hill Smith – the forest above, the water below, the long and even Burgundian-like slope in between. What’s more, the valley’s cool climate provided insulation from the looming threats of global warming. With their eyes squarely on the prize, the two set about negotiating acquisition of a site not for sale and – spoiler alert – were quick to succeed. But changes were required to take the site in the desired direction. Certain sparkling-specific clones were replaced with more suitable alternatives, pruning was changed from spur to cane, drainage was improved, frost protection was implemented via a new dam (after having been assured frost wasn’t part of the program!) and mid-row soil was ripped to alleviate compaction. With soils made up of light silica over sandstone, water retention is poor, so composting was implemented upon taking over the site along with undervine clover to keep things cool and assist in holding moisture – critical in this dry terroir. Following further plantings, the vineyard is now 31 hectares with an approximate 50/50 split between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Around the time of the Tolpuddle Vineyard purchase, Shaw and Hill Smith had been trying to entice star winemaker Adam Wadewitz to join the Shaw + Smith team. Wadewitz was winemaker at Best’s Great Western in Victoria at the time, and it was the prospect of working with fruit from the Tolpuddle Vineyard that is said to have sealed the deal. With the inaugural 2012 wines made by Martin Shaw, Wadewitz took over from the 2013 vintage and has excelled with the site ever since.

The Chardonnay is whole bunch pressed, fermented in French barriques and generally sees 100% malolactic fermentation given the bracing southern-Tasmanian acidity. It then spends nine or ten months in barrel with around 30% new. Pinot Noir sees around 30% to 40% whole bunch and around ten months in barriques with 30-35% of it new.

With only a dozen or so releases under their belt and a slew of accolades in that time, the future of Tolpuddle Vineyard is as crystalline clear as the skies above it. It’s as bright as the southern Tasmanian sun. One thing’s for sure – drink a bottle of Tolpuddle and you’ll know intuitively that you’ve chosen the right path. You’ll feel it in your gut. Your skin. Your bones.

White

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2023 Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
95

2023, Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay

Another cool vintage in the Coal River Valley. This shows pretty pops of melon, greengage blossom, green apple skin, a chalky mineral note, jasmine and a subtle saline twang. Some nutty tones with air. The palate is bright and energetic with piercing citrus drive and great texture to foil it’s electrically charged tension. It’s tight and furled, though the bones are there for an exciting future. This, the most recent release of this wine, perpetuates the upward trajectory of Tolpuddle Chardonnay. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Feb 2025.

2022 Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
5
96

2022, Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay

Sweet pops of melon and green apple lead the aromas with some floral prettiness beneath and followed by talc, cinnamon, struck match, and freshly squeezed lemon juice. It’s wonderfully mineral, too, which lifts and energizes the wine. The palate is furled and taut, with concentrated fruit tussling it’s way to push through and fill it out with almond meal and praline adding savoury complexity. 2022 was one of the coolest vintages in recent history and it shows in the wine’s rapier acidity. This needs time to fill out, but what’s there now is brilliant. Drink from 2027-2031. Tasted Feb 2025.

2021 Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
5
97

2021, Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay

Curry leaf reduction makes way for dehydrated lime, citrus preserves, candied lime, white flowers and a mineral drive. It’s focused, pithy and precise with a coiled spring-like energy. There’s a tensile frame to the palate, though with lovely textural finesse and charm holding notes akin to the nose. Citrussy acidity frames it all up along with a surprisingly firm phenolic presence to elongate and freshen the finish. Very good length here. A wine of focus, precision and purity. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Feb 2025.

2020 Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
5
98

2020, Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay

Peach, grilled nuts, peach skin, Meyer lemon, cinnamon and nutmeg sit in a layered profile and above a sheath of struck match reduction. Some opulent ripe stone fruit blossom notes with air. This is layered, classy and finespun. On the palate, there’s great shape, detail and structure, foiling a burst of precise fruit and spice. This is at once powerful and precise, with any chance of ponderance sliced up and pulled into linearity by a shot of laser-like acid and interwoven phenolic presence. Textural, layered, precise and with seemingly endless length. A classy wine. Drink from 2025-2035. Tasted Feb 2025.

2019 Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
95

2019, Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay

Some stubborn rubbery reduction here, eventually making way for lime, cashew and white florals with some cinnamon spice in support. There’s good sapidity and bright zestiness to the palate which is loaded with trademark Tolpuddle verve and energy. The finish is taut, linear and driving with a frame of pithy acid and glossy phenolics drawing length. A high-toned and energetic expression. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Feb 2025.

2018 Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
94

2018, Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay

This has a measured and balanced feel, with ripe lime, peach skin, almond meal, and melon sitting in a fresh profile, with some riper peach blossom notes with air. There’s full bodied texture through the palate, coating the mouth with notes akin to the nose and some gentle phenolic chew through the finish. This is a quieter expression, though beguiling as a result. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Feb 2025.

2017 Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
5
98

2017, Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay

This is remarkably pretty and fresh aromatically, though with excellent intensity, focus and drive. White florals, lime skin, struck match, cashew cream, subtle white peach – all wrapped around a saline mineral core. The palate follows suit in it’s pithy prettiness and finesse, though with a good burst of precise concentration funnelled through architectural structure to long length. A wine of impact, this masterfully balances crystalline finesse with powerful complexity. A stunning wine. Drink from 2025-2033. Tasted Feb 2025.

2016 Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
93

2016, Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay

Some slightly rubbery reduction to start before a filling out of peach skin, a hint of kumquat, ripe sweet florals, bath salts, and delicate cinnamon spice. It’s riper than previous, but still pretty and linear. There’s a fulsome feel through the palate which holds the fruit in a pillowy texture with a more pronounced phenolic edge through the finish, pulling the fruit core into linearity to good length. There’s a lovely latent lick of acidity cleansing the back palate, too. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Feb 2025.

2015 Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
5
96

2015, Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay

A lovely melding of flint and fruit weight to start. White nectarine, green apple skin, saline minerality. There’s attractive brightness to the aromas while still exhibiting depth. Good power and texture to the palate, too, with a chewy feel quickly foiled by pithy phenolics and citrus laden acidity. There’s some earthy button mushroom lingering beneath, but otherwise this is driven by primary fruit with notes akin to the nose. Good bite here, with the power and weight pushing through the palate to great length and a pithy finish. Concentrated and seamless – not a hair out of place. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted Feb 2025.

2014 Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
94

2014, Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay

A more deep-set feel here, with a weight to the fruit. White peach, a subtle green edge, candied lime, and some green florals with air. A hint of subtle green pineapple in the mix. The palate has breadth and weight, with lime fruits leading the charge and white nectarine beneath. There’s good intensity here and a lactic feel texturally. The finish holds some grip to the sides and an attractive lime peel bitterness. The acidity is a touch hard and sour, perhaps jutting out a little. But overall this is cool, textural and mealy. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Feb 2025.

2013 Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
92

2013, Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay

A quieter, more reserved and saline set of aromas here. It’s ripe though still taut in feel with dehydrated lime, candied lime, flinty minerality and some floral citrus blossom lift with air. This is less about fruit and more about mineral boniness. The palate follows suit, with an emphasis on seaspray and rocky quartz-like minerality rather than a push of fruit. It’s fine and lithe through the finish, though the fruit isn’t quite there to fill out it’s architectural structure of rapier acidity and talc-like phenolics. Drink from 2025-2025. Tasted Feb 2025.

2012 Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
93

2012, Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay

Open but surprisingly fresh and youthful with aromas of almond meal, hey, some stubborn flint, lemon pith, and barely there tertiary development in the form of delicate button mushroom which emerges more with air. The palate shows the openness of age, though still with a pithy and tensile sensibility. Dehydrated lime and melon fruits cut through hey, almond meal again and white peach skin with piercing and bright acidity drawing it all long through the mouth. The acid is still a touch hard and tart despite the wine’s age, but there’s a lot to like here. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Feb 2025.

Red

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2023 Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
93

2023, Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir

Glossy primary red fruits at the fore with lifted raspberry and strawberry underpinned by integrated spice. The palate is nicely concentrated with notes of the same and a lovely sapid feel. Glossy and bright red fruits again with nutmeg and hints of earthiness beneath. Firm sappy tannins frame it all up to a nice red fruited and even finish. Delightfully bright now, though this clearly needs time. Drink from 2025-2033. Tasted Feb 2025.

2022 Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
5
96

2022, Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir

Herbaceous whole bunch spice leads the aromas along with some savoury bark notes before raspberry, macerated strawberry, peppercorn, green bean and a meaty nuance. The palate bursts with lovely concentrated fruit in the form of cranberry and dark cherry sitting above whole bunch spice, earth and sou bois. Incredibly polished and inviting texture floats it all through the palate to long length. Super classy and complex. Drink from 2025-2035. Tasted Feb 2025.

2021 Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
5
96

2021, Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir

A lovely melding of fruit and spice aromatically. Nutmeg, dark cherry, cranberry, pops of pomegranate, and subtle cracked cardamom with whole bunch integrated and intermingling. Lovely polished feel to the palate which masterfully balances power and finesse. Great texture, too, with everything wrapped up in fine-but-firm tannins and a drench of bright acidity. Classy and fine, an excellent Pinot Noir. Drink from 2025-2033. Tasted Feb 2025.

2020 Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
94

2020, Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir

Lifted bunch and brown spice notes are very inviting from the outset, before the emergence of lovely dark cherry fruit, forest floor and some autumnal leaf notes in the background. Air unlocks some red floral prettiness adding further lift and perfume. There’s good fruit weight and intensity to the palate, driving through the mouth with sappy dark cherry, brown spice, forest floor and bunchy spice before firm and assertive tannins pull it all long to a spice-laden and clean finish. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Feb 2025.

2018 Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
93

2018, Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir

Lifted and open knit aromas here. Ripe raspberry and raspberry compote sit above red liquorice and liquorice root with some spiced plum lingering beneath. The palate is fulsome and broad-shouldered in it’s fruit profile, with round notes of plum, raspberry coulis and red cherry molasses. Despite it’s loose weave feel, this is still quite beguiling and vibrant with a structural frame through the finish. Not the most lithe of the wines in this tasting, but charming nonetheless. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Feb 2025.

2017 Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
5
98

2017, Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir

Wonderful impact from the get go here, with dense and intense aromas of dried cranberry, dark cherry, earth and integrated stemmy, twiggy spice. Some emergent forest floor and paperbark sits beneath adding dimension and complexity. The aromatics are so moreish, drawing you back to the glass time and time again. There’s excellent concentration to the palate, with dried cranberry, dark cherry and sous bois bursting through the mouth within a funnel of firm structure in the form of chalky tannins and integrated acidity. All of this pulled long to brilliant length. This is Burgundian in feel, with restrained power and immense complexity. An excellent wine of class, elegance and poise. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Feb 2025.

2016 Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
90

2016, Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir

Bigger berries from bigger bunches in a bigger crop. Lighter aromatics here with less power and verve. Plum and dark cherry fruits sit within a delicate profile, with some nutmeg spice in support. The palate follows suit with charm and an open knit feel holding lighter red cherry, red florals and delicate brown spice. There’s still some structure to frame it all, but this is a lighter and brighter expression ready to go now. Drink from 2025-2025. Tasted Feb 2025.

2015 Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
5
96

2015, Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir

Tomato leaf, green bean, dried cranberry, fig leaf, and pomelo orange define the aromas with a saline twang beneath. The herbaceous tone of the palate is wonderfully soaked up in a burst of sous bois and dark cherry fruit, making for a lovely complex and textural feel. Fine-but-firm tannins frame the finish along with a latent kick of cranberry acid to clean it all up. There’s a velvety feel here, with lovely seamless complexity and excellent length. Drink from 2025-2025. Tasted Feb 2025.

2014 Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
92

2014, Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir

There’s smoky undertones within a stemmy and bunch-led aromatic profile here thanks to 50% whole bunch fermentation for this vintage. The palate has a savoury aesthetic with tomato leaf, dried herbs and spice commanding the mouth within a slippery texture. Sappy tannins and herbaceous acidity persist nicely through the finish. It’s a savoury and bunchy affair with the latter a touch overt, but there’s lots to like here nonetheless. Drink from 2025-2025. Tasted Feb 2025.

2013 Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
93

2013, Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir

Pomegranate, dark cherry, earth, autumnal decaying leaves, and a ferrous edge. There’s good concentration and complexity to the palate which is quite open knit (perhaps indicative of warmer vintage) showing earth, autumn leaves, dark cherry, subtle mushroom and sous bois. A firm sheath of silty tannins still asserting through the finish. Very autumnal, with lovely tertiary development sitting within ample, firm structure. The acid again poking its head out a touch, however. Drink from 2025-2025. Tasted Feb 2025.

2012 Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
92

2012, Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir

Just a subtle garnet edge to Tolpuddle’s first Pinot Noir release made by Martin Shaw. 15% to 20% whole bunch. Dried cranberry, paperbark, root vegetable, sauteed mushroom, measured stemmy spice, earth. Quite airy aromatics. There’s a nice even feel through the palate with a restrained tertiary led mix of earth and field mushroom at the fore with dark cherry and cranberry in support. A fine sheath of silty tannins frames the finish along with some nervy and elevated acidity. Not immensely concentrated having fallen away somewhat over time, but a lovely texture and even feel despite the pushy acid. Drink from 2025-2025. Tasted Feb 2025.