Someone should make a movie about the history of the Geelong wine region. It features a compelling Hollywood arc dramatically balanced by the bloom of new beginnings, the enthralling grip of conspiracy and alleged corruption, and the heartwarming resolve of renaissance. There are lofty highs and wretched lows with heroes and villains abound. It’s a story that will condemn the human race and then restore your faith in it. Russell Crowe, Nicole Kidman – you get the vibe.

It’s difficult to imagine now, but Geelong was once Victoria’s largest wine region and, without doubt, Australia’s most prominent. This was thanks to the arrival of European immigrants who fled the wars, revolutions, and political unrest of Europe in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. In the main, it was Swiss farmers from the Neuchâtel area that chose the greener pastures of Geelong as their new home having escaped not only religious conflict, but also the gruelling challenges of consistent crop failure. Viticulture beckoned, and these influential immigrants released their first commercial vintage in 1845 marking the beginning of a rapid rise in both size and influence. By the 1860’s, the wines of Geelong were being exported to Europe and receiving consistent critical acclaim.

Life can turn on a dime, however, and when Phylloxera reared its ugly head in Australia, it chose Geelong as its landing place. The governmental response to this catastrophe is speculated to have been corrupt and ill-conceived. This is thanks to a group of allegedly duplicitous politicians who moved to issue a vine pull scheme in 1875 that ultimately decimated the region and sent it into dormancy. While this was dressed up as Geelong falling on its sword to save the rest of the Australian wine industry, it’s now more widely believed that these politicians had financial interests in the Rutherglen region that had flourished around the same time, and wanted not only to protect it from Phylloxera but also to remove Geelong as competition. Corrupt or otherwise, it was all a waste of time, money, and precious vines as Phylloxera spread through Victoria unabated with Rutherglen eventually succumbing.

A one hundred year hiatus followed with Geelong fading into vinous obscurity, before the renaissance began thanks to Daryl and Nini Sefton. Knowing the history and potential for re-establishment of the Geelong region, they planted their Idyll Vineyard in the Moorabool Valley in 1966. With the Sefton’s having broken the drought, others followed, and perhaps most significantly Bannockburn Vineyards who planted their first site in 1974 and bolstered the region to critical approbation.

Today, there are 60 or so producers in the region across three quite varied sub-regions that encircle the city of Geelong, one hour’s drive west of Melbourne. In the north of the region, the dry and cool-to-moderate Moorabool Valley is inland on ancient volcanic and limestone soils, producing richly textured Chardonnay and savoury, structured Pinot Noir. In the south east, the Bellarine Peninsula is surrounded by Port Phillip, Corio Bay and Bass Strait. With its maritime influence, moderate rainfall and rich black basalt soil laid over limestone, this sub-region generally produces more elegant and lighter bodied wines. Finally, the Surf Coast sub-region stretches from south of the Geelong city to Victoria’s southern coast line. The soils range from weathered basalt mixed with volcanic loam that become sandy gravels closer to the coast. Viticulture can be tough here, with blustery winds from the ocean often battering at the vines. Here the wines are clearly maritime influenced, with mineral driven Chardonnay and elegantly fruited Pinot Noir wines.

This tasting reinforced the variance of wine styles across the subregions, though it didn’t define them hierarchically. This is to say that the old notion of ‘producer, producer, producer’ rings true, at least to some extent. In general, the Chardonnay wines have never been more tensile and energetic –  even those in a richer spectrum – and oak use has never been more judicious. The Pinot Noir offerings largely held an excellent balance of fruit and spice with controlled concentration and age-worthiness. Only a few were ponderous, and in comparison to other releases from those same producers, were anomalies rather than threads.

Overall, an interesting movie indeed! But how does it end? At this stage, it’s with an epilogue explaining that the wines of Geelong are enjoying a tantalising upward quality trajectory despite the adversity faced in times gone by. For more than that, Hollywood might have to wait.

White

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2023 Bannockburn Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
5
96

2023, Bannockburn Chardonnay

I reviewed this for my vertical Bannockburn tasting report back in June last year, and it’s presenting in the same excellent vein. Vibrant pale straw colour with flecks of green. Cracked wheat and hay melds with ripe lemon, peach skin and flesh, with gentle buttered toast, cedar, and subtle pastry dough in support. A lovely cut of minerality slices through the aromatic power bringing freshness and further complexity. There’s a masterful balance of tension and power to the palate. Ripe lemon, hay, white peach, and white nectarine sit within a buoyant, creamy texture before a clean line of acid pulls it to great length. Freshness and concentration in equal measure with lovely line, definition, purity and length. Drink from 2025-2038. Tasted Feb 2025.

2023 Bannockburn S.R.H. Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
5
97

2023, Bannockburn S.R.H. Chardonnay

Deep and alluring aromas of hay and sweet nettle yield to fresh ripe peach, preserved lemon, grilled nectarine, subtle kumquat marmalade and custard with pastry dough and cinnamon stick to follow. Struck match and cedar sit as a seasoning and there’s some salted hazelnut, too, adding dimension. Air brings it all together, making for an incredible complex and balanced aromatic profile. There’s good volume and concentration to a full bodied and chewy palate, coating the mouth with stone fruits, citrus preserves, lemon butter, hay and cinnamon before a constriction of it all thanks to firm phenolics and briney acidity. It’s uber-textural and powerful, though it’s architectural structure sweeps it up and drives it long through the palate. Very long, in fact. Another brilliant SRH release. Drink from 2025-2038. Tasted Feb 2025.

2023 Circulus Wine Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
91

2023, Circulus Wine Chardonnay

Yellow grapefruit melds with toast and nashi pear to start, followed by lemon curd, yellow peach skin and lemon zest beneath. Air and increased temperature unlock a lees derived salted dough note adding dimension. The palate has a subtly lactic feel texturally and is medium bodied with a nice burst of ripe citrus and gentle spice. Lemon curd, Meyer lemon, yellow apple, yellow peach, and pastry dough fill the mouth with some ginger nuance in support. The finish is even and framed by some gentle phenolic edge. A touch more tension would elevate this, though an admirable second release from this producer. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Feb 2025.

2023 Lethbridge Wines Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
93

2023, Lethbridge Wines Chardonnay

Pale gold with yellow inflections. Sweet pear blossom lifts from the glass before an unfurling of orchard fruits galore. Anjou pear, white peach, yellow apple and kumquat sit above quince jelly, fig leaf and a glimmer of cinnamon. Toast oak notes dance around it all as a seasoning. The palate is fulsome and intense, with bursts of yellow peach, nectarine, and cooked apple commanding the mouth, with some honey blossom and toast notes in the mouth perfume. Powdery apple phenolics foil the wine’s power nicely through the finish, driving length along with a pithy line of acid. This is a fulsome and sapid wine, wonderfully shaped and tempered by architectural structure. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted Feb 2025.

2023 Oakdene Liz's Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
94

2023, Oakdene Liz's Chardonnay

Restrained though intense notes of subtle toast and struck match make way for peach pulp, peach skin, nutmeg spice, Meyer lemon, quince jelly and pear. This all makes for a moreish and attractive set of aromas, with the fruit and spice mix nicely balanced. The palate has good depth and intensity while similarly maintaining restraint and poise, with a smooth texture wrapping around nectarine, green apple, white peach, Meyer lemon, and flickers of toast and cinnamon in support. Seamless and silky phenolics frame the finish along with zesty acidity to a clean, subtly bitter and long finish. There’s real class here – a Chardonnay of complexity, restrained power, and poise. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted Feb 2025.

2023 Bellbrae Estate Boobs Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
92

2023, Bellbrae Estate Boobs Chardonnay

Attractive notes of gunsmoke and flinty reduction sit at the fore automatically while tussling with spicy oak. These notes slowly intertwine with lashings of yellow apple, cashew cream, white peach, pear and cinnamon with buttered toast and gentle vanilla bean beneath. The palate has a fulsome and round mouth feel, with a core of fruits in the same ilk encased in a sheath of toasty oak and flint again. The finish carries some bitter preserved lemon edge with cashew, orchard fruits and toasty oak in support. This has a rich an opulent feel, not shy of oak nor reduction, but there’s control and precision to foil it. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Feb 2025.

2023 Mulline Vintners Sutherlands Creek Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
94

2023, Mulline Vintners Sutherlands Creek Chardonnay

Vibrant orchard fruits meld with oak spice in a lifted aromatic opening. Yellow apple, grapefruit, bosc pear, fine cedar, cinnamon stick and subtle quince. A good swirl of the glass reveals grilled peach and preserved lemon along with some floral bath salt and flint notes adding dimension and shape. The palate is sapid and fulsome with an intermingling of cedar, orchard fruits and spice notes slipping through the mouth with a slately mineral core adding lift and interest. Phenolic structure is a feature here – they’re chalky and firm providing shape and frame to carry it all long. There’s lots to like here – power, structure, complexity. A lovely wine. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted Feb 2025.

2023 Mulline Vintners Portarlington Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
94

2023, Mulline Vintners Portarlington Chardonnay

An attractively tart opening with notes of pink grapefruit, kumquat, Meyer lemon, peach skin and citrus preserves to start, followed by cassia bark and hazelnut. There’s a oceanic saline twang through the aromas, too. It’s quite compact and focussed. The palate also has a compact feel, though with ample flesh aching to unfurl and fill out. Grapefruit and Meyer lemon lead the charge, with white peach and salinity in tow. The phenolics are firm but fine and powdery in texture, coiling the palate along with saline acidity. This needs time to relax and unfurl, but the bones are wonderful. Drink from 2027-2031. Tasted Feb 2025.

2022 Heroes Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
92

2022, Heroes Chardonnay

Lovely restraint on show here. Sweet lime and Meyer lemon notes push through fine cedar to start, followed by pear, yellow apple and a seasoning of cinnamon spice. The palate has a round though elegant texture, with notes of the same sitting in a concentrated but controlled profile before firm chalky phenolics frame the finish with clean acidity in tow to draw length. This is nicely put together, with vibrancy and volume kept in check by architectural structure. Drink from 2025-2032. Tasted Feb 2025.

2022 Lethbridge Wines The Bartl Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
94

2022, Lethbridge Wines The Bartl Chardonnay

Savoury notes of cheese cloth, salty brine, lemon butter and almond meal lead the charge with pear, poached apple and preserved lemon filling things out with air, and some subtle toastiness beneath. There’s some barley and earthy turmeric spice that add dimension and interest, too. The palate is sapid, fulsome and textural, coating the mouth with yellow apple, pear, brine, turmeric again, lemon butter and hay and in a powerful burst. It’s quickly swept up and pulled linear, however, by a quite assertive cut of briny acidity and chalky phenolic grip leading to a long and poised finish. Lemon butter and toast in the mouth perfume. There’s powerful complexity here, with judicious structure, great length and loads of interest. Drink from 2025-2032. Tasted Feb 2025.

2018 Lethbridge Wines Allegra Chardonnay Feb 2025 White
5
95

2018, Lethbridge Wines Allegra Chardonnay

Powerful, deep and brooding aromas at seven years of age. Toast, lemon butter, ripe peach, pine resin, subtle manuka honey, wheat and almond meal. A glimmer of cashew and flint lingering in the background. Loads of breadth and power through the palate, but with a controlled and measured feel. Nothing overt. Toast again, grilled peach, cashew nuts, preserved lemon and oatmeal with a tangy acid cut and elegant pithy phenolics bringing shape and carry. Incredible power and length through the finish which is seemingly endless and with preserved lemon and nutty notes permeating. A charismatic, complex and powerful wine. A great release. Drink from 2025-2032. Tasted Feb 2025.

Red

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2023 Bannockburn Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
94

2023, Bannockburn Pinot Noir

This hasn’t moved an inch since I tasted this in June last year. Macerated strawberry, red cherry, subtle rhubarb and some stemmy spice sit above ferrous, iodine minerality. There’s lovely precision and lift to the aromatic profile. The palate is buoyant and bright with red cherry, fresh raspberry, and strawberry gliding through the mouth, supported by subtle bramble, brown spice and ferrous mineral cut. A good vein of svelte, sappy tannins provide frame and carry. It’s very vibrant, elegant and lifted overall, while still maintaining complexity and power. Drink from 2025-2033. Tasted Feb 2025.

2023 Bannockburn Serre Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
5
96

2023, Bannockburn Serre Pinot Noir

Pretty aromatics lead the charge with sweet pops of raspberry and red rose before a quick underpinning of autumnal savouriness, ferrous drive and stemmy spice. It’s so compelling straight out of the gate. Air reveals tilled earth, iodine, raspberry compote, toasted hazelnut, graphite, paperbark and riverstone. The fruit and spice mix is wonderfully appealing. The palate is mouth filling but precise, with restrained power and architectural structure. Raspberry, red cherry, orange zest, rhubarb, twiggy spice and decaying leaves burst through the mouth before swathes of fine-but-firm ferrous tannins and cherry acidity constrict and funnel it all long through the mouth. This is so classy, bringing together prettiness and powerful, savoury complexity to create a harmonious and complex pinot noir that will age beautifully. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted Feb 2025.

2023 Circulus Wine Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
91

2023, Circulus Wine Pinot Noir

Smoky cherry, rhubarb, nutmeg and red rose lead the charge before in an initially skeletal set of aromas, before air unlocks more earthy underbrush notes along with some emergent fruits in the form of wild strawberry, red currant and a twist of tangerine to fill it out. The palate is fine boned, red fruited and similarly linear with red cherry, red rose, earth, red currant and nutmeg encased in a very nervy structural aesthetic with perky acidity and firm-but-fine tannins framing the finish. Some more concentration would boost this wine, but the bones are there. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Feb 2025.

2023 Lethbridge Wines Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
93

2023, Lethbridge Wines Pinot Noir

Charred vegetable, ferrous lift and earthy beetroot first off, before tomato bush and chilli leaf. Dark cherry and boysenberry enter the picture with air adding fruit dimension to the earth and spice-led profile to fill it out. A good swirl of the glass reveals white pepper spice and sweet pops of cardamom and clove. There’s so much spice complexity here, and it melds wonderfully with the fruit and earth after exposure to air. The palate holds more fruit weight, with dark cherry, plum and boysenberry at the core, with sprinklings of clove and pepper dancing around it along with earth and beetroot again. It’s quite textural, too, filling the mouth in an intense earthy aesthetic before a vein of earthy, sappy tannins and earthy acidity frame the finish. Lots going on here. This isn’t about purity and prettiness, but rather intense earth and spice. Overall, quite delicious. Drink from 2025-2031. Tasted Feb 2025.

2023 Bellbrae Estate Bird Rock Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
93

2023, Bellbrae Estate Bird Rock Pinot Noir

Soft and velvety aromas raise from the glass with dark cherry, white chocolate, nutmeg, rhubarb and earth dancing around a core of cherry stone minerality. Some air unlocks delicate clove, ripe raspberry, a ferrous edge, some emergent whole bunch spice and a glimmer of mushroom. There’s a demure and quiet sensibility aromatically, though by no means at the expense of complexity. The palate is sapid and intense, however, with lovely texture and a cool, ferrous mineral tone permeating dark cherry, raspberry, tilled earth and nutmeg spice which burst through the mouth with mushroom/sous bois complexity in support. Fine sappy tannins and dark-cherry acid provide shape and carry, wrapping it all up and drawing to a cool and long finish. There’s lovely finesse and savoury complexity here, with fine structure and cool tones. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted Feb 2025.

2023 Mulline Vintners Portarlington Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
94

2023, Mulline Vintners Portarlington Pinot Noir

I reviewed this for my ‘Australian Future Legends – Pinot Noir’ report late in 2024, and my initial note still rings true, though the fruit has perhaps understandably relaxed into the wine a touch since. Raspberry, strawberry and white pepper straight off, with air unlocking nutmeg, cherry and pretty red florals. A deeper earthy element unfolds thereafter along with twiggy spice notes and a more open knit fruit profile bringing a sense of completeness. Bright bursts of red cherry lead the palate, with strawberry and raspberry in tow and brown spice dancing around the edges. Ultra-fine sappy tannins and floral acidity frame a poised, focused and long finish. Overall, this is deliciously red fruited and bright with no expense of spice and earthen complexity. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Feb 2025.

2023 Mulline Vintners Barrabool Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
95

2023, Mulline Vintners Barrabool Pinot Noir

Soft and velvety aromas raise from the glass with dark cherry, white chocolate, nutmeg, rhubarb and earth dancing around a core of cherry stone minerality. Some air unlocks delicate clove, ripe raspberry, a ferrous edge, some emergent whole bunch spice and a glimmer of mushroom. There’s a demure and quiet sensibility aromatically, though by no means at the expense of complexity. The palate is sapid and intense, however, with lovely texture and a cool, ferrous mineral tone permeating dark cherry, raspberry, tilled earth and nutmeg spice which burst through the mouth with mushroom/sous bois complexity in support. Fine sappy tannins and dark-cherry acid provide shape and carry, wrapping it all up and drawing to a cool and long finish. There’s lovely finesse and savoury complexity here, with fine structure and cool tones. Drink from 2024-2030. Tasted Feb 2025.

2023 Mulline Vintners Modewarre Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
92

2023, Mulline Vintners Modewarre Pinot Noir

This has relaxed a little since last review, with more savoury complexity in the mix. Restrained aromas of curry leaf, subtle smoke, dried cranberry, dark cherry, wild strawberry, and nutmeg. A good swirl of the glass unlocking black tea and forest floor. The palate has a coiled feel, with dark cherry, cranberry, and damp earth wrapped up in firm chalky tannins and a latent wash of freshening acidity. I feel this still needs time to show its true colours, but there’s been some subtle movement since tasting in October. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Feb 2025.

2023 Mulline Vintners Sutherlands Creek Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
93

2023, Mulline Vintners Sutherlands Creek Pinot Noir

This hasn’t moved an inch since tasting late last year. Lifted morello cherry, creamy soda, damson plum, nutmeg spice and savoury cedar oak. Lovely fruit weight on the palate centred around cherry and plum and cedar oak and brown spice playing a supporting role. Good volume and sapidity on show here, before a firm sheath of tannins hold sway bringing frame and carry for the fruit and brown spice notes. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Feb 2025.

2023 Mulline Vintners Drysdale Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
94

2023, Mulline Vintners Drysdale Pinot Noir

No change here since reviewing late last year. Cracked cardamom and nutmeg spice sit over baked plum, ripe raspberry and tilled earth first up. There’s a lovely ferrous sensibility, too, adding interest along with some leafy autumnal notes. Some further time in the glass reveals dark cherry and further earth and forest floor notes. The palate has an open knit feel though with ample tension. Ripe raspberry, baked plum, dark cherry, and brown spice are framed by a good lick of chalky tannins and savoury acidity. With air, this all comes together so beautifully making for a balanced, complex, and savoury Pinot Noir. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted Feb 2025.

2022 Heroes Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
5
95

2022, Heroes Pinot Noir

Cherry cola, nutmeg, and vibrant red rose sit above red currant, a shot of fine-boned minerality, and a gentle sheath of sous bois. This is pretty and focussed – one of those wines that draws you into the glass. The palate is lithe and mineral, finespun and lifted; gliding high through the mouth while hitting all the right spots. Red cherry, cherry pit, earth, red rose, nutmeg. A filagree weave of gossamer tannins and red fruited acidity take it home to a finish of poise and elegance. There’s an ethereal sensibility here, with mineral detail, restraint and elegance on show. Drink from 2025-2032. Tasted Feb 2025.

2022 Oakdene Peta's Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
92

2022, Oakdene Peta's Pinot Noir

An attractive and generous lift of dewy earth and woody spice sets the scene aromatically, followed by a filling out of plum, dark cherry, blueberry and prettying wafts of lavender. The palate has lovely weight and texture with an open feel while still holding shape. Plum, earth, cherry, nutmeg, blueberry and twiggy whole bunch spice glide through a frame of ultra-fine tannins and fresh plum-laced acidity to long and poised length. A touch more concentration would take this up a notch, but a complex and beguiling wine nonetheless. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Feb 2025.

2022 Bellbrae Estate Bird Rock Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
90

2022, Bellbrae Estate Bird Rock Pinot Noir

There’s a brooding and dusty feel aromatically. Fine cedar and clove define the aromatic opening before woody spice, dusty paperbark, earth and a saline twang. Very savoury, though the fruit does emerge with air in the form of dark cherry, dried cranberry and a whisper of dark plum. The palate is open knit, round and juicy with cherry ripe, cherry liqueur, plum and earth coating the mouth before sinewy graphite tannins frame things up to an earthy, sappy close. A more plump and broad shouldered expression here, without the lift, energy and verve of its 2023 counterpart. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Feb 2025.

2022 Bellbrae Estate Tetaz Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
92

2022, Bellbrae Estate Tetaz Pinot Noir

This is both deep and delicate upon opening with spiced plum and dark cherry unfurling and making way for dusty cedar and vanilla bean. Brown spice enters the mix in the form of nutmeg and cinnamon along with cherry liqueur, red liquorice and meat. There’s an open knit feel to the aromatics which lean to power more than precision. The palate is equally open and ripe in it’s feel despite a 13% ABV. Plum, cranberry, dark cherry and cedar lead the charge with forest floor notes in support with firm tannins framing it up through the finish. Perhaps some more tension to foil the powerful and brooding aesthetic would elevate this. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Feb 2025.

2021 Heroes Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
94

2021, Heroes Pinot Noir

Spicy and delicately nutty on opening, with nutmeg and toasted hazelnut making way for dark cherry, a mineral lift, gentle forest floor, and red rose. It’s a moreish amalgam as it all comes together. The palate is lifted and mineral, with cherry at the fore and red rose adding prettiness with an underpinning of gentle forest floor and delicate nutmeg spice. The tannins are quite firm-but-fine, putting up a nice frame along with earthy acidity – the latter of which endures to carry long, gentle length. A classy wine. Drink from 2025-2032. Tasted Feb 2025.

2021 Lethbridge Wines Mietta Feb 2025 Red
5
95

2021, Lethbridge Wines Mietta

Intensely ferrous and spicy first off. Twiggy and stemmy spice, nutmeg, iodine minerality, smoky cherry, wheat, toasted hazelnut and ground coffee. Some tilled earth, forest floor and a pop of sweet red rose appear thereafter adding adding dimension and filling it out. Increible complexity and intrigue here. The palate holds excellent intensity and texture, with a burst of dark cherry, red rose, ferrous minerals, stemmy spice, earth, and sous bois, all wrapped up in sappy dissolving tannins and iodine-laced acidity to frame a long and elegant finish. There’s a latent surge to the acidity, too, drawing incredible length and freshness. This is powerful and so well crafted with savoury complexity abound and the muscular Moorabool Valley terroir captured so well in the bottle. Drink from 2025-2034. Tasted Feb 2025.

2019 Heroes Pinot Noir Feb 2025 Red
5
95

2019, Heroes Pinot Noir

There’s a lovely melding of spice and earth notes first off. Nutmeg, a whisper of clove, cinnamon stick, and mushroom lead into autumnal and earthy sous bois with an underpinning of elegant cherry and cranberry fruit. Very classy and fine aromatically with masterful restraint, detail and precision. The palate is fine-boned, filigree and intense with decaying leaves, dark cherry, cooling minerality, field mushroom, dried oregano, and undergrowth – all kept linear by earthy acidity and ultra fine and integrated tannins that that pull to a long and savoury finish. This is all class – a wine of detail and elegance while still wonderfully intense and long. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Feb 2025.