Written: July 2022
Earlier this year I caught up with three domaines whose wines I did not manage to taste last autumn. This report will be followed rapidly by two ‘First Visits’ to Grégoire Bichot’s Domaine des Clos in Nuits-St-Georges, and to Pierre-Olivier Garcia in the same town.
Domaine René Bouvier
Hide
It took me a while to appreciate just how good Bernard Bouvier’s wines are these days. In a quiet way he has been fine tuning his offer, moving more in the direction of whole bunch vinification and indeed several no added sulphur cuvées, while working with sufficient care and attention to avoid any deviations in the wines.
Bernard picked his 2020 crop over 10 days, starting on 25th August. He reports that degrees were mostly around 13 and occasionally 13.5%. The reds are made with at least 60% whole bunch vinification and 20% new wood except Bourgogne Montre-Cul (none). The wines were all in tank when I tasted. They will be bottled under cork, except for the no added sulphur wines for which he uses technical corks.
White
View by:
2020 | Marsannay Clos du Roy, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | White |
|
90-92 | |||||||
2020, Marsannay Clos du Roy, Domaine René BouvierPicked a couple of days before the start of the harvest, on 22nd August. This has had some sulphur. A slightly paler colour than Le Clos, with an agreeable mix of spring flowers and medium density white fruit. Tense and tangy yet with a very good density of white fruit through the middle, and a somewhat saline finish. Still building! Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 90-92 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Marsannay Le Clos sans souffre, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | White |
5
|
92 | |||||||
2020, Marsannay Le Clos sans souffre, Domaine René BouvierMade in 600 litre barrels. Bottled two weeks ago, unfiltered and without sulphur. There will be a normal version too (not tasted). Fullish lemon yellow, not quite fallen clear but his experience suggests that it will clarify in bottle. A complex nose, with yellow fruit and some ripe citrus, understandably rounder than the Aligoté. This 2020 Le Clos really kicks on, with some fresh white pear and good acidity. Tingling minerals and very persistent. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating:
5
100pt score: 92 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Bourgogne Aligoté Vieilles Vignes, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | White |
|
86 | |||||||
2020, Bourgogne Aligoté Vieilles Vignes, Domaine René BouvierMade from 60 year old vines in Marsannay and Morey, vinified entirely in tank and bottled two weeks ago. Lively lemon yellow with a racy nose, fresh apples. Quite lean but with plenty of energy. Has maybe been tightened up by the recent bottling. Good length in fact. Apple and citrus notes. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 86 |
Red
View by:
2020 | Marsannay Clos du Roy Vieilles Vignes, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
89-91 | |||||||
2020, Marsannay Clos du Roy Vieilles Vignes, Domaine René BouvierThe Bouvier block is in the sector known as Pau next to Laurent Fournier. Fine even purple, with a lush note to the nose, floral as well. Somewhere between optimum and maximum ripeness, but encouragingly nearer the former. I love the backbone to this and the freshness. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 89-91 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Fixin Crais de Chêne sans souffre, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
87-89 | |||||||
2020, Fixin Crais de Chêne sans souffre, Domaine René BouvierMade with the usual two thirds whole bunch. Like Les Longeroies the nose has just a little oxidation, as also the colour. Plump dark fruit with an incisive edge from the acid balance. Full bodied but not quite as compelling as Longeroies. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 87-89 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Marsannay Longeroies Vieilles Vignes, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
89-92 | |||||||
2020, Marsannay Longeroies Vieilles Vignes, Domaine René Bouvier70 year old vines plus. This is not amongst the deepest colours of the range but the bouquet declares an intensity of fruit ahead of the other wines to date. Impressive purity, a fine fresh finish, the fruit displays several levels, not as thick textured as the nose led me to expect, but with an impressive backbone. The oak adds a little too, without being over dominant. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 89-92 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
93-96 | |||||||
2020, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine René BouvierJust racked. From Mazoyères, upper part, old vines. A deep crimson purple colour, the nose is a little out of place after the racking, then there is a huge wealth of fruit behind. Dark plum and rich strawberry notes, a full sensuality, the pepper of the whole bunches. Not together because of the stage it is at, but full of promise. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 93-96 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
91-93 | |||||||
2020, Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux, Domaine René BouvierTwo barrels made. Medium deep crimson. The bouquet offers some depth of a darker spicy fruit with summer flowers too. Darker fruit again on the palate, with some of the savoury character, the umami note, definitely saline and with good length. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 91-93 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | Red |
5
|
94-96 | |||||||
2020, Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées, Domaine René BouvierFrom the top part of the vineyard. The Bouvier team are contracted to work the vineyard, and they then buy the grapes. Just racked. Rich mid purple. A smoky nose with a significant weight behind. Then the fresher side as the sweet red cherries start to come out. This is really rather astonishing on the palate and just gets fresher and deeper, with an overlay of white pepper, and beautifully juicy. An astonishing quality to the finish. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating:
5
100pt score: 94-96 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Morey-St-Denis En la Rue de Vergy, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
91-92 | |||||||
2020, Morey-St-Denis En la Rue de Vergy, Domaine René BouvierThe second year of Bernard’s brothers’ vines. Very little topsoil but a cool site, so pick late. There is a freshness to the fruit profile which pleases, yet still builds to a generosity on the palate. Deep fresh cherry with a little smoky touch, complex and interesting. Good salivation at the back! Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 91-92 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Gevrey-Chambertin Racine du Temps, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | Red |
5
|
92-94 | |||||||
2020, Gevrey-Chambertin Racine du Temps, Domaine René BouvierEn Créot is the main source but this is a multiple terroir, old vine cuvée. A dark brooding garnet crimson colour. The bouquet goes to another level and it is obvious that alongside the floral top notes there is a wealth of fruit to follow. Obviously whole bunch in style, but gives terrific pleasure. Sensual and spicy but above all with dark fruit intensity. If you like Jamet or Jasmin Côte Rôtie you will like this. Small millerand grapes. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating:
5
100pt score: 92-94 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
90-92 | |||||||
2020, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois, Domaine René BouvierMedium deep purple. A certain succulence to the nose, ripe but with depth of flavour. Bounce and exuberance, more than elegance, with spicy notes and a more saline finish. Keeps coming back for more! Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 90-92 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
90-92 | |||||||
2020, Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice, Domaine René BouvierBernard notes that you have to pick early here, on the stony soil of La Justice. Not the deepest or brightest of the colours but the bouquet is pretty, though displaying fully ripe flavours. Ripe dark raspberry with the usual firmer, and valuable, backbone. Kicks on very well. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 90-92 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Fixin Crais de Chêne, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | Red |
5
|
90-92 | |||||||
2020, Fixin Crais de Chêne, Domaine René BouvierThis does not come from the same plot as the sulphur free wine, though with the same downwash soil, so there are plenty of stones. Lighter in colour, with a more reductive nose. There is massive intensity on the palate, dark raspberry and a touch of blackcurrant, more intensity in the mouth and a fine long finish with some spice. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating:
5
100pt score: 90-92 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Marsannay Longeroies sans souffre, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
89-92 | |||||||
2020, Marsannay Longeroies sans souffre, Domaine René BouvierAll whole bunch, but from a different plot to the Vieilles Vignes bottling of Longeroies. It has a vibrant, deep purple. Colour. The bouquet shows a little bit of a light pruny oxidation but this is superficial. Perhaps a touch of kirsch to the nose. Deep dense and vibrant, rich peonies and dark raspberry fruit. Good fresh fruit and racy acidity. I am not worried about the nose and I love the finish. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 89-92 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Marsannay Champ Salomon, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
89-91 | |||||||
2020, Marsannay Champ Salomon, Domaine René BouvierAt the foot of the slope with a touch more clay. A full purple with a strong effect of whole bunches, though nicely integrated with the dark berry fruit. The structure is typically fresh with good acidity but there is a balanced juiciness throughout with some red berry notes alongside the darker fruit. Good length. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 89-91 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Marsannay En Ouzeloy, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
87-89 | |||||||
2020, Marsannay En Ouzeloy, Domaine René BouvierMedium deep purple, not quite clear. The bouquet is on the softer side, not quite showing precision thanks to a slightly reductive note. Racy fresher raspberries on the palate, slightly thicker tannins, not together today but if this comes into place it will deserve more. The limestone scree gives an elegant touch here, notes Bernard, and we may see that once the wine settles down. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 87-89 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Marsannay Le Finage, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
87-88 | |||||||
2020, Marsannay Le Finage, Domaine René BouvierLe Finage is the name Bernard gives to his cuvée ronde covering various locations across the appellation. Mid purple, the nose has a little more precision than Montre-Cul, with what could be a pyrazine note, but is the whole bunches showing much more in this wine. Good intensity, excellent fresh finish from the acidity, perhaps a little sourness from the stems, which should soon play out, otherwise dark raspberry fruit, and certainly length. A little tangerine touch to finish. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 87-88 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Bourgogne Montre Cul, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
86-87 | |||||||
2020, Bourgogne Montre Cul, Domaine René BouvierPlump purple, the wine has not quite fallen clear yet. The bouquet offers rich ripe cherry and plum notes. Bouvier’s 2020 Montre Cul is very juicy, just stopping at the right side of the line, quite thick textured yet with length. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 86-87 |
||||||||||||
2019 | Morey-St-Denis En la Rue de Vergy, Domaine René Bouvier | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
89-91 | |||||||
2019, Morey-St-Denis En la Rue de Vergy, Domaine René BouvierMedium deep ruby. A slight reductive quality to the nose, but attractive even so. Fresh and racy, very much dark fruit, as ripe as one would wish, yet the fresh acidity and the whole bunches save the day. Slightly smudged fruit compared to 2020. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 89-91 |
Domaine Vincent Ledy
Hide
Vincent Ledy is one of the most irrepressibly enthusiastic vignerons one could hope to meet. His domaine has been in operation for ten years now, and he is finding his feet though there are still two issues to overcome: the problem of the failing 161/49 rootstock in three vineyards, and how to cope with the hot dry years. His older vines cope better than the younger ones, understandably, and are further supported by his use of whole bunches for these cuvées. He is an all or nothing sort of guy: either 100% destemmed or 100% whole bunch.
Yields in 2020 were between 15 and 20% (he did much better in 2021) and though he started to pick as early as 23rd August, alcohol levels are between 14 and 15% with one wine topping 16.2%. To join the group of top talents, Vincent needs to find a solution to this excess ripeness issue. I do hope he will, because there is a great deal to like here, not least the man himself.
White
View by:
2020 | Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Chardonnay, Les Chalottes, Domaine Vincent Ledy | Mar 2022 | White |
|
86-88 | |||||||
2020, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Chardonnay, Les Chalottes, Domaine Vincent LedyFined but not filtered at this stage. Mid lemon yellow, while the bouquet also has some spicy notes, if not as evident as the Pinot Gris. Delicious fruit, not too sunny, with correct weight and good length. Very attractive finale and the spice dissipates. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 86-88 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Pinot Gris, La Croix de Beaune, Domaine Vincent Ledy | Mar 2022 | White |
|
85-87 | |||||||
2020, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Pinot Gris, La Croix de Beaune, Domaine Vincent LedyFined but not filtered at this stage. Planted in 2013, and pruned short up to and including 2020, so as to build the vine up physically. Plenty of colour with maybe the faintest pink tinge. Notably aromatic but not too sunny. A little bit of spice, slightly lactic, but a fun wine. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 85-87 |
Red
View by:
2020 | Nuits-St-Georges Les Porêts St Georges Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Ledy | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
88-91 | |||||||
2020, Nuits-St-Georges Les Porêts St Georges Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent LedyPlanted in 1935. Picked a week later than the younger vines but at 14.5% from a yield of just 12 hl/ha. Rich purple, the bouquet is bordering on volatile but much livelier. This has more nuance perhaps but it is not quite in place and the tannins are borderline dry. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 88-91 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Nuits-St-Georges Les Porêts St Georges 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent Ledy | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
85-87 | |||||||
2020, Nuits-St-Georges Les Porêts St Georges 1er Cru, Domaine Vincent LedyPlanted in 1981 on 161/49C rootstock, destemmed grapes, one and a half barrels made, at 16.2% alcohol. Super saturated purple, hugely intense, wind dried cherries. Then the dried tannins behind. Despite the intensity of the fruit, this is unlikely to work in bottle. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 85-87 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Savigny-lès-Beaune Connardises, Domaine Vincent Ledy | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
88-91 | |||||||
2020, Savigny-lès-Beaune Connardises, Domaine Vincent LedyExtremely deep purple black in colour. Sumptuous and sultry yet still very attractive nose. The fruit profile does remind me of blackberry jam/ bramble jelly though. The stems liven up the finish happily. This will not be a typical Burgundy but if you like the style, it will be a lovely one. I have no problem giving this the benefit of the doubt. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 88-91 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Savigny-lès-Beaune Petits Liards, Domaine Vincent Ledy | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
87-89 | |||||||
2020, Savigny-lès-Beaune Petits Liards, Domaine Vincent LedyThe plot produces larger grapes, so these are destemmed. There is lovely perfume to this and less of a sunny feel. Bilberries again, you can see that these grapes might feel a bit dilute in a more generous year, lighter red fruit even now, but this will make an attractive wine to drink in the medium term. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 87-89 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Chorey-lès-Beaune Les Beaumonts, Domaine Vincent Ledy | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
85-87 | |||||||
2020, Chorey-lès-Beaune Les Beaumonts, Domaine Vincent LedyDestemmed. Half the vines have been ripped out after the 2021 vintage because of the 161/49 rootstock issue. Deep purple, with a heady dense nose, on the black side of raspberry. Some blackcurrant leaf too indicates a bit of reduction though not an ugly one. Slightly firm finish with blackcurrant jam fruit. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 85-87 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits La Vacherotte Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Vincent Ledy | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
86-88 | |||||||
2020, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits La Vacherotte Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Vincent LedyFrom vines planted in 1954, vinified as whole bunches. Equally fine deep purple colour with a heady sweet blackcurrant fruit backed by a little spice. This comes across as much fresher than the regular Hautes Côtes de Nuits though doubtless not much lower in alcohol. Shows quite well but still going to be extreme in maturity. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 86-88 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits La Vacherotte, Domaine Vincent Ledy | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
86 | |||||||
2020, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits La Vacherotte, Domaine Vincent Ledy3.5 barrels made, using destemmed grapes, and bottled in early September. Thick rich purple, juicy and ripe, with more red fruit than black, still at the limit of ripeness though. Ripe red cherry and mature plums. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 86 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Bourgogne Rouge Les Combes, Domaine Vincent Ledy | Mar 2022 | Red |
|
86-87 | |||||||
2020, Bourgogne Rouge Les Combes, Domaine Vincent LedyThe vines are located in Flagey-Echezeaux, and the grapes are destemmed. Rich deep flamboyant purple. Clean ripe pinot, not exaggerated with good solid structure and deep dark cherry fruit. Luscious but with some firm tannins. Ripe but good. Tasted Mar 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 86-87 |
Bertrand & Axelle Machard de Gramont
Hide
Picking of the 2020 crop began on 27th August, with the heat stressed vineyards, stopping briefly the following day for a little rain on 28th, before continuing. The last day of harvest was 13th September when, by chance, I bumped into Axelle and her father, and the picking crew in their Aligoté plot, high up on the hill behind the ruins of the Abbaye de Vergy.
Yields were low – below 20 hl/ha for the Haut Pruliers, but degrees were no higher than in 2019. The grapes were destemmed and vinification was kept light, just a little pumping over, before the wines spent a year in barrel, being racked to tank after the vinification of the 2021s. I sampled them in tank in February 2022.
Red
View by:
2020 | Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux, Bertrand et Axelle Machard de Gramont | Feb 2022 | Red |
|
89-92 | |||||||
2020, Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux, Bertrand et Axelle Machard de GramontThis wine comes from a small holding of 0.14ha which provided enough wine to fill one new 350 litre barrel. The colour is a richer purple than the straight Vosne-Romanée. The bouquet includes a little bit of oak vanilla but the fruit is stronger nonetheless. There is more generosity of fruit too on the palate, and though the oak is a little bit present at the moment, it should certainly integrate because there is no sign of drying out. Tasted Feb 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 89-92 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Vosne-Romanée, Bertrand et Axelle Machard de Gramont | Feb 2022 | Red |
|
89-91 | |||||||
2020, Vosne-Romanée, Bertrand et Axelle Machard de GramontMade from three plots, the upper part of Champs Goudins, Aux Ormes, and Maizières Basses, all picked and fermented together. Medium to deep purple, a very light pyrazine on the nose, which soon blows off to release a fine perfumed richness of fruit. Still a very light pyrazine at the finish Tasted Feb 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 89-91 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Nuits-St-Georges Aux Allots, Bertrand et Axelle Machard de Gramont | Feb 2022 | Red |
|
90-92 | |||||||
2020, Nuits-St-Georges Aux Allots, Bertrand et Axelle Machard de GramontFrom a holding of 0.92ha purchased in 1969, the rows running from top to bottom. Dense medium deep purple. This wine has the most muscle to date, with tannins a little more apparent, but balanced by the weight of fruit. This said, the wine has still been made with a light and attractive hand. Tasted Feb 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 90-92 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Nuits-St-Georges Les Hauts Pruliers, Bertrand et Axelle Machard de Gramont | Feb 2022 | Red |
|
89-91 | |||||||
2020, Nuits-St-Georges Les Hauts Pruliers, Bertrand et Axelle Machard de GramontThe Haut Pruliers shows greater density of colour than either Vallerots cuvée, though the fruit profile is similar. There are some plums in with the cherries, and a raspberry touch to finish. Silky tannins again, like all of the wines so far. Tasted Feb 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 89-91 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Nuits-St-Georges Les Vallerots, Bertrand et Axelle Machard de Gramont | Feb 2022 | Red |
|
90-92 | |||||||
2020, Nuits-St-Georges Les Vallerots, Bertrand et Axelle Machard de GramontFrom a plot planted in 1984, so older vines than Les Terrasses des Vallerots. Glowing mauve purple, with a fine volume of deep red cherry and raspberry fruit. Racy, thanks to the acidity, a slight biscuity touch, more fruit across the palate and very attractive length. Tasted Feb 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 90-92 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Nuits-St-Georges Les Terrasses des Vallerots, Bertrand et Axelle Machard de Gramont | Feb 2022 | Red |
|
88-90 | |||||||
2020, Nuits-St-Georges Les Terrasses des Vallerots, Bertrand et Axelle Machard de GramontLovely glowing purple, with a soft sweet cherry nose, not cooked very appealing. Just a little bit smoky on the attack then the sweeter fruit profile returns. Still, there is good acidity with balanced tannins. Tasted Feb 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 88-90 |
||||||||||||
2020 | Bourgogne Les Grands Chaillots, Bertrand et Axelle Machard de Gramont | Feb 2022 | Red |
|
86-87 | |||||||
2020, Bourgogne Les Grands Chaillots, Bertrand et Axelle Machard de GramontPurchased in 1986 – though they refused the plot next door because it sits under the high tension electricity lines. Fine pretty ruby/crimson colour. Very much a Nuits style of Bourgogne with some Axelle induced elegance, very floral, then cherries. The alcohol shows a touch here but this is a fine and generous Bourgogne none the less. Tasted Feb 2022. Star rating: 100pt score: 86-87 |