2022 marks another fine vintage from the Leflaive team, masterminded by Brice de la Morandière along with winemaker/technical director Pierre Vincent, who has since left to take on his own domaine with investors.

I tasted with both Pierre and Brice in May 2024, during the week when the top wines were about to be bottled. The 2022 vintage represents the first year with the new winery in full use. This has enabled them to pick more quickly and to have the ideal tank for each cuvée each time. They have the luxury of six presses, and can rent more, if need be, if the weather pattern requires very rapid harvesting. In 2022 the harvest began on 25th August, the joint second earliest date, along with 2011, after 2020. Some light rain in August was very welcome given the heat spikes in mid-July and very early August. Enjoy the crystalline qualities of these wines, which marry perfectly ripened fruit with an immaculate backbone.

Tasting Notes

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2022 Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Leflaive Apr 2024 White
89

2022, Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Leflaive

Fresh pale lemon yellow. There is immediate energy on the nose, yet with grace. Lime blossom fragrance, pleasing salinity, subtle nuances, a thoroughly enjoyable medium-plus bodied 2022. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Apr 2024.

2022 Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive Apr 2024 White
91

2022, Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive

Mid lemon yellow. There is gunflint reduction with a slightly oily character. Excellent tension, crystalline, still a touch of yellow plum in the fruit, supremely long finish. Not especially floral or white fruited, but a Puligny with drive and personality. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Apr 2024.

2022 Meursault Sous le Dos d'Ane 1er Cru, Domaine Leflaive Apr 2024 White
93

2022, Meursault Sous le Dos d'Ane 1er Cru, Domaine Leflaive

Pretty and fresh pale colour. Steely on the nose, all in white fruit, the limestone is not far away. There is excellent density to this Meursault from high on the Blagny hillside, a little lemon wash, crystalline in the mouth. Racy yet with depth. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Apr 2024.

2022 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru, Domaine Leflaive Apr 2024 White
92

2022, Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru, Domaine Leflaive

Light lemon colour. Attractively floral, then a similar little wash of line. This is light on its feet, has the required density without an especial weight, with a pleasing length of finish. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Apr 2024.

2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru, Domaine Leflaive Apr 2024 White
93

2022, Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru, Domaine Leflaive

A touch more colour and certainly more energy. Just a light gunflint reduction on pleasingly yellow fruit, yet with detail and subtlety. Here there is cream in the middle compared to the leaner clean cut Clavoillon. Softer at the finish but the generosity is balanced. Tangy touch to finish. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Apr 2024.

2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru, Domaine Leflaive Apr 2024 White
93-95

2022, Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru, Domaine Leflaive

Pale in colour, with soft glossy white fruit, the pillow effect of classical Combettes. Team Leflaive have had to work hard to restore this vineyard to health, as it is a site that has suffered in hot dry conditions. There is fine life here though, with a proper mineral backbone, good juicy acidity, ripe fresh apples, in a finely woven texture. Very interesting. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Apr 2024.

2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru, Domaine Leflaive Apr 2024 White
5
94-96

2022, Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru, Domaine Leflaive

Medium deep, pale yellow in colour. Plenty of fruit is immediately apparent on the nose, but seems a little more backward, less in harmony today. A mix of ripe citrus fruits, lemon, orange and grapefruit, so ripe enough. Then the 2022 Pucelles grows into what I would expect: really quite complex and with a zesty finale. Superb grace and length, with further volumes of fruit reappearing at the back. Keeps on going. Grand cru quality on the palate, and, taking the slight recalcitrance of the bouquet as a temporary issue, I am happy to award the full five stars to what should become a grand Pucelles. Drink from 2029-2038. Tasted Apr 2024.

2022 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Domaine Leflaive Apr 2024 White
94-96

2022, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Domaine Leflaive

Pale lemon yellow. An idea of velvet on the nose, a puree of fresh apples, a real concentration of pure white fruit on the palate with a rinse of lemon. Fine tension, nothing too oppressive in the weight, nuanced throughout. I wonder if the Bienvenues has quite the same length as the Pucelles. Yet the wine is detailed and surprisingly stony, Grand Cru from first sniff. Drink from 2029-2038. Tasted Apr 2024.

2022 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Domaine Leflaive Apr 2024 White
5
96-98

2022, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Domaine Leflaive

Solid, weighty, a little more colour, less grace than the Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet up front, yet with more muscles. That’s Bâtard for you. The nose goes into its shell a bit now. There is an enormous volume of bulky white fruit, even with some tannins. Density of another order here. A little crystalline acidity emerges at the finish. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Apr 2024.

2022 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, Domaine Leflaive Apr 2024 White
5
96-98

2022, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, Domaine Leflaive

Pale lemon. A light but fine bouquet, not immediately giving, though it soon begins to open out. This marches to a particularly fine beat, not the grace of Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet nor muscle of the Bâtard-Montrachet, but sheer class and a silkiness backed by the limestone freshness. Diamond detail, pure Chevalier! Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Apr 2024.