This report covers the 2021 vintage from two important producers in the Côte de Nuits who prefer to release their wines only after bottling.
First up is the suave, urbane and widely travelled Laurent Ponsot, making his 6th vintage since departing from the family domaine. These are stylish, elegant wines, made in the style of the vintage.
Alongside them, are the robust and backward wines from Domaine Joseph Roty, made in the usual uncompromising style by Pierre-Jean Roty. I was particularly intrigued by a comment he made about himself, « Je suis un garçon assez rapide dans les choses tout en prenant le temps » – I am a guy who is quick enough to do things while still taking time. I am sure my translation can be improved on!
Laurent Ponsot
HideLaurent Ponsot prefers to show his wines once they have been bottled, hence my November visit to his smart premises in Gilly-lès-Citeaux was to taste the 2021 vintage which had been bottled between January and June 2023. He did make the comment, important to understand why the producer an importer is dealing with has raised his tariffs once again, that prices of grapes went up 44% between 2019 and 2022. He was able to make all the red wines which he usually does, admittedly in smaller volumes, and there is in fact one more grand cru in the line-up, though there are slightly fewer whites. As mentioned in the introduction, these are stylish, elegant wines, made in the style of the vintage.
White
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2021 | Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | White |
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93 | |||||||
2021, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Laurent PonsotPale yellow. An attractive floral style with an exuberant fruit aspect underneath, a solid rich full white fruit on the palate, juicy and quite sensual, just the right acidity, stylish and long. Drink from 2026-2031. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 93 |
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2021 | Meursault Les Genevrières 1er Cru, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | White |
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92 | |||||||
2021, Meursault Les Genevrières 1er Cru, Laurent PonsotPale lemon colour, crunchy, stony chiselled and only faintly herbal. The little strawberry touch comes out again behind, with a depth of fruit and adequate acidity behind. Long aftertaste, a step above the Charmes. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 92 |
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2021 | Meursault Les Charmes 1er Cru, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | White |
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90 | |||||||
2021, Meursault Les Charmes 1er Cru, Laurent PonsotPale in colour, again with the soft and rather red fruit aromatics. Then a line of citrus acidity running through. Quite an attractive wine but I don’t really find Charmes typicity. Medium plus length. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 90 |
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2021 | Meursault ‘Cuvée du Pandoréa’, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | White |
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89 | |||||||
2021, Meursault ‘Cuvée du Pandoréa’, Laurent PonsotMid lemon yellow. A minor oak note, white fruit with a little bit of plum behind. Then opens out into a fresher style behind, of white fruit. A sweetish finish with a raspberry note. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 89 |
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2021 | Bourgogne Blanc ‘Cuvée du Pierce-Neige’, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | White |
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87 | |||||||
2021, Bourgogne Blanc ‘Cuvée du Pierce-Neige’, Laurent PonsotPale colour, with a pretty bouquet that has good density. Ripe citrus and fresh plum, quite exciting. A very good blend between the fruit and the acidity, with a saline finish. Lemony aftertaste. Drink from 2024-2026. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 87 |
Red
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2021 | Clos St-Denis Grand Cru, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | Red |
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95 | |||||||
2021, Clos St-Denis Grand Cru, Laurent PonsotA glowing flamboyant ruby. This is exquisite on the nose too. Little alpine strawberries and raspberries. Easily enough fruit concentration, for the vintage this is a grander wine than most, if less dramatic than certain richer riper years. Peppery at the finish, very much a hallmark of 2021. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 95 |
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2021 | Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | Red |
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92 | |||||||
2021, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, Laurent PonsotA lighter mid purple. The bouquet has a mix of soft red fruits, on the palate slightly held in check at the moment by the oak, giving a light youthful bitterness. A mix of cherry and strawberry. Fair length. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 92 |
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2021 | Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | Red |
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95 | |||||||
2021, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru, Laurent PonsotAn attractive pink to ruby colour. Quite a delicate and classy bouquet, indeed the class sails through on the palate too, followed by some wood. This wants to be, and I believe will become when it grows up, an ethereal wine. The persistence is very admirable. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 95 |
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2021 | Chambertin Grand Cru, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | Red |
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93 | |||||||
2021, Chambertin Grand Cru, Laurent PonsotBright and fresh crimson in colour. The bouquet is a little more direct than the Clos de Bèze but I suspect a little less fine. The structure is less balanced with the oak standing out and a little bitterness. Still good fruit, but not quite the magic. A little raw at the moment. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 93 |
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2021 | Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | Red |
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95 | |||||||
2021, Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, Laurent PonsotAn attractive mid crimson to ruby. There is quite some density of fruit here, more strawberry than other red fruits, but giving a sense of authority. Firm in structure but not on the raw side. Darker fruit now, with fine acidity, a very complete and delicious Clos de Bèze. The fruit seems to take over all the rest as the wine grows in the glass. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 95 |
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2021 | Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | Red |
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93 | |||||||
2021, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, Laurent PonsotNo more than medium deep crimson. Savoury strawberry notes, a little bit of liquorice behind, does not quite fill the mouth as well as the Mazis, but still an agreeable fruit at the end. Does not quite kick on all the way through. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 93 |
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2021 | Mazis-Chambertin, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | Red |
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95 | |||||||
2021, Mazis-Chambertin, Laurent PonsotOne barrel. A rich pink crimson, with rather a lovely full raspberry fruit. Very spicy behind, with white pepper. Proper intensity here, racy and crunchy with some fine ripe fruit behind. Long enough, this has all the charm of the best of the vintage. Drink from 2028-2036. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 95 |
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2021 | Charmes-Chambertin, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | Red |
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92 | |||||||
2021, Charmes-Chambertin, Laurent PonsotThree plots, one in Mazoyères. Quite full crimson purple colour. The bouquet is quite restrained, suggesting fruit beneath but not quite ready to deliver. Pepper again, and a savoury take on cherry. The fruit has enough volume to cover its acidity and wood tannins though. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 92 |
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2021 | Echezeaux, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | Red |
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93 | |||||||
2021, Echezeaux, Laurent PonsotThree plots from three different lieux-dits. Mid pink purple. A very elegant nose, floral, roses in full bloom, showing the leaner side of the year much less. A medium ripe cherry fruit on the palate with the savoury peppers. Quite nuanced, not quite the persistence of a great vintage. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 93 |
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2021 | Clos de Vougeot, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | Red |
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93 | |||||||
2021, Clos de Vougeot, Laurent PonsotFrom 10 different plots, covering most of the Clos. A sound and fairly deep crimson colour. The bouquet offers a relatively dense fresh red fruit, ripe enough to stand up to the structure of the wine. The acidity plays as big a part as the tannins. The fruit stays attractive throughout. Will need time. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 93 |
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2021 | Gevrey-Chambertin En Ergot 1er Cru, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | Red |
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91 | |||||||
2021, Gevrey-Chambertin En Ergot 1er Cru, Laurent PonsotBright crimson to ruby. There is an attractive perfume of riper fruit here, dark strawberry, a touch of liquorice, the right side of savoury. Some firmer tannins behind but in proportion to the fruit. Good persistence. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 91 |
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2021 | Chambolle-Musigny Les Sentiers 1er Cru, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | Red |
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92 | |||||||
2021, Chambolle-Musigny Les Sentiers 1er Cru, Laurent PonsotA pinkish ruby colour. The bouquet has an attractive depth, on the savoury side, yet with strawberry notes beneath. The acidity is nicely spaced out across the palate, while the body of fruit is easily adequate to cover the bone structure. The strawberry and fresh cherry notes return behind. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 92 |
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2021 | Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes 1er Cru, Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | Red |
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91 | |||||||
2021, Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes 1er Cru, Laurent PonsotMid crimson colour, with a lean and savoury nose, strawberry with a more herbaceous edge, attractive in this less ripe style, with good persistence. I like it but does not quite fulfil the Charmes function. Drink from 2026-2031. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 91 |
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2021 | Beaune ‘Cuvée du Noyer’ | Nov 2023 | Red |
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91 | |||||||
2021, Beaune ‘Cuvée du Noyer’A blend of eight different vineyards. A fuller pinkish purple. The bouquet is gorgeous, rounded after the more linear Vosne Romanée. There is a thread of acidity through the middle, but the fruit has ripened very nicely and the length is there. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 91 |
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2021 | Vosne-Romanée 'Cuvée du Cerisier', Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | Red |
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89 | |||||||
2021, Vosne-Romanée 'Cuvée du Cerisier', Laurent PonsotQuite a pale pink to purple. Fresh cherry notes on the nose, obviously less opulent than some examples, or years. The pepper shows quite strongly here and a firm acidity impacts the finish. There are the basic skills of the appellation here, and fair length. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 89 |
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2021 | Chambolle-Musigny 'Cuvée de la Violette', Laurent Ponsot | Nov 2023 | Red |
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90 | |||||||
2021, Chambolle-Musigny 'Cuvée de la Violette', Laurent PonsotA bright ruby red with more definition than the Gevrey-Chambertin. The bouquet is on the slimmer side for Chambolle though still with some floral notes, while the wine in the mouth has an excellent fruit acid balance, just a little pepper, and fine persistence. Racy and charming. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 90 |
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2021 | Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Cuvée de l’Aulne’ | Nov 2023 | Red |
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88 | |||||||
2021, Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Cuvée de l’Aulne’Paler in colour and less vigorous seeming than the Cuvée des Peupliers. Cherry and fresh raspberry, slightly raw, with quite high acidity. An attractive 2021 for the medium term. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 88 |
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2021 | Bourgogne Rouge ‘Cuvée des Peupliers’ | Nov 2023 | Red |
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87 | |||||||
2021, Bourgogne Rouge ‘Cuvée des Peupliers’Made up from 12 different plots. Pretty cherry pink with a really lovely perfume, also bringing out the idea of cherries. Fresh, vigorous, touch of sandalwood, and a bit peppery. But quite long and definitely fine. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 87 |
Domaine Joseph Roty
HideMy tastings at domaine Joseph Roty are something of a marathon, as I usually taste the recent vintage still in barrel (I reported on the 2022s in January) and the previous vintage, now in bottle. Given the ageing profile of the Roty wines, this can be as brutal as tasting somebody else’s brand new offerings. Even the 2021s will take a long time to mature.
In part it is a question of a reasonably old-fashioned approach to extraction, from grapes meticulously grown at lower than average yields. Another factor which I came to understand from this trip was the choice of oak regime. At a time when most producers are going either for a medium to light but long toast, or else a more extreme lack of toast – sometimes called chauffe tartare – Jean Pierre Roty continues with a heavy toast, chauffe forte, using the coopers Billon, mostly, and some Rousseau. This toasting shows rather prominently while the wines are young, but should integrate slowly over time.
The Roty 2021s will be very good wines – but they will take time.
White
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2021 | Marsannay Blanc, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | White |
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88 | |||||||
2021, Marsannay Blanc, Domaine Joseph RotyA lemon straw colour. The bouquet has developed nicely here, with a liquorice and menthol touch, stones in the background, racy and nearly ready to drink. Fine length. A nice example. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 88 |
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2021 | Bourgogne Côte d'Or Blanc, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | White |
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87 | |||||||
2021, Bourgogne Côte d'Or Blanc, Domaine Joseph RotyClear pale colour. Fresher and stonier than the 2022, with a touch of pyrazine behind, suggestive of grilled hazelnuts. Yet there is more precision and less oaky sucrosity than the ‘22, at the moment, with a fine long aftertaste that includes a slight lime infusion. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 87 |
Rosé
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2021 | Marsannay Rosé, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Rosé |
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89 | |||||||
2021, Marsannay Rosé, Domaine Joseph RotyJust four barrels. Salmon coloured, as much pale orange as pink. Less immediately fruity on the nose than the 2022. Comes through very well on the palate having had an extra year to fill out, very gourmand, softer at the finish. As much a charmer as I remember. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 89 |
Red
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2021 | Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Red |
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95 | |||||||
2021, Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru, Domaine Joseph RotyA rich and even darker purple. Very intense crushed dark strawberries, gorgeously hedonistic. Then it is. A-fresher style of strawberry, plus raspberry, on the palate, an excellent fruit acid balance with tamed tannins. Do I still get a touch of something smoky to finish, a slight intrusion of the barrel toast while the wine is young? Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 95 |
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2021 | Griottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Red |
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94 | |||||||
2021, Griottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Joseph RotyA pleasing crimson, softer in style than the Mazy, as indeed is the bouquet. Soft rich strawberries. Possibly more at the front than the back, this wine is close to being the opposite of Mazy. Then an attractive little touch of fruit returns behind. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 94 |
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2021 | Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Red |
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95 | |||||||
2021, Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Joseph RotyQuite a dense purple. The nose barely speaks, but there is a fine depth of intense raspberry which is in fact more powerful than one could expect. A mineral aspect behind. Still an infant. It is just built like this, monumental. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 95 |
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2021 | Gevrey-Chambertin Les Fontenys 1er Cru, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Red |
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93 | |||||||
2021, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Fontenys 1er Cru, Domaine Joseph RotyOne of the denser colours. There is a lot going on here on the nose, not yet revealing all its detail. The mouth shows it all, still with a fresher edge from this less ripe vintage, the finish is properly fine, as the fruit is in place and the oak has given up its ground. More raspberry than strawberry in the Fonteny. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 93 |
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2021 | Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée du Clos Prieur Bas, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Red |
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92 | |||||||
2021, Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée du Clos Prieur Bas, Domaine Joseph RotyThe vintage fits this terroir like a glove says Pierre-Jean. Mid purple. A bouquet of different fresh red berries. Remarkably stylish on the palate with a dense red fruit energy, building to the back of the palate, and good acidity, excellent persistence. Drink from 2027-2033. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 92 |
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2021 | Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée de la Brunelle, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Red |
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91 | |||||||
2021, Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée de la Brunelle, Domaine Joseph RotyA fullish purple. Plump and quite ripe red berry fruit on the nose. The fruit is at perfect ripeness and expresses itself very well on the palate, having smothered its tannins and with no barrel effect at the back. Harmonious and not far from being ready. Drink from 2026-2031. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 91 |
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2021 | Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée des Champs Chenys, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Red |
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92 | |||||||
2021, Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée des Champs Chenys, Domaine Joseph RotyA slighter brighter crimson purple. There is more raspberry than strawberry in the bouquet. Nuanced on the palate, some alpine strawberry now, just a little spicy note, and a beneficial bitterness at the back. Now some cherry. This is complex and deserves time. Drink from 2027-2033. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 92 |
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2021 | Gevrey-Chambertin, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Red |
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90 | |||||||
2021, Gevrey-Chambertin, Domaine Joseph RotyMid crimson. The fruit is immediately present in its predominantly strawberry style. There is good acidity, a certain strictness rather than sucrosity, but the balance is fine. Drink from 2026-2031. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 90 |
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2021 | Côte de Nuits-Villages, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Red |
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90 | |||||||
2021, Côte de Nuits-Villages, Domaine Joseph RotyFor the only time, the 2021 is a blend of the about to depart Queue de Hareng vineyard and the newly arrived Croix Violette. Medium to full crimson purple. A heady nose for the vintage, plums and raspberries, kicks on well on the palate with the vanilla side of the oak in the background. Drink from 2026-2031. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 90 |
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2021 | Marsannay Cuvée de Clos de Jeu, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Red |
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89 | |||||||
2021, Marsannay Cuvée de Clos de Jeu, Domaine Joseph RotyMedium deep crimson. A softly attractive strawberry fruit, with fresh acidity behind. Not as evenly dense as Boivin, but very attractive in a lifted fashion. Quite persistent once more, as the Roty wines always seem to be. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 89 |
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2021 | Marsannay Cuvée de Boivin, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Red |
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91 | |||||||
2021, Marsannay Cuvée de Boivin, Domaine Joseph RotyA dense bright purple. Here there is a delightful intensity of ripe bright raspberry fruit which is in perfect harmony right across the palate. The barrel barely speaks and the fruit flows through. Excellent. Crunchy finish with fine persistence. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 91 |
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2021 | Marsannay Les Ouzeloy, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Red |
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88 | |||||||
2021, Marsannay Les Ouzeloy, Domaine Joseph RotyA denser purple, still very youthful. This has stayed much tighter, there is a bit of orange peel as well, while the fruit does not quite fill the mouth entirely, being in competition with the barrel toast. Drink from 2026-2031. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 88 |
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2021 | Marsannay Champs St-Etienne, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Red |
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90 | |||||||
2021, Marsannay Champs St-Etienne, Domaine Joseph RotyMedium crimson purple. Very attractive on the nose, roses and strawberries, with elegance. Not the most concentrated but this is a graceful style, with a very good heart to the wine, and the barrel barely influencing the finish. Good acidity, an additional zest at the finish and the fruit carries on through. Very nice. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 90 |
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2021 | Marsannay, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Red |
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88 | |||||||
2021, Marsannay, Domaine Joseph RotyMid to deep crimson. Some pyrazines on the nose. Floral too, a touch of white pepper, still a bit of barrel behind, but the fruit rides through to cover the bone structure. Actually, a very pleasing graceful raspberry fruit to finish. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 88 |
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2021 | Bourgogne Côte d'Or Cuvée de Pressonier, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Red |
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88 | |||||||
2021, Bourgogne Côte d'Or Cuvée de Pressonier, Domaine Joseph RotyAn even mid crimson purple. The fruit has a touch more intensity, predominantly raspberry, driving to another level at the back of the palate. Even here the barrel needs longer to integrate, this time with a smoky cream note, but in this instance I have no doubt that it will all do so given a little time in bottle. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 88 |
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2021 | Bourgogne Côte d'Or, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Red |
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87 | |||||||
2021, Bourgogne Côte d'Or, Domaine Joseph RotyA fine mid crimson purple. A bundle of raspberry fruit, juicy, the tannins are now well integrated. The smoky touch returns at the back, perhaps the barrel, but does not quite take over from the very pretty fruit. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 87 |
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2021 | Coteaux Bourguignons, Domaine Joseph Roty | Nov 2023 | Red |
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86 | |||||||
2021, Coteaux Bourguignons, Domaine Joseph RotyA lighter and more sombre crimson. A fresh light perfume. Pretty strawberry fruit, a little acidity, with a slight pyrazine note at the back, leaving a greener edge. Pretty enough fruit though. Drink from 2025-2026. Tasted Nov 2023. Star rating: 100pt score: 86 |