Written: April 2024
I remember tasting the wines when Pascal Marchand was involved in the late 2000s, but it was only in February this year that I did in fact make a thorough visit of the domaine for the first time, at the invitation of new winemaker François Lecaillon and his boss, Laurent Féry.
The antecedents of Domaine Jean Féry date back to 1922 with the production of red fruits, berries and currants, then the staple of the Hautes Côtes, rather than grapes. In 1969 the vineyard side was established by Jean Féry, who was married to Marcelle Jacob, sister of Louis Jacob. The Féry and Jacob families worked together until 1989 when Jean-Michel Jacob took out his family’s vineyards to create his own domaine. Jean-Louis Féry remained to continue developing Domaine Jean Féry. In 2022 his son Laurent returned to take up the reins of a significantly expanding domaine, with purchases in Givry in 2021 and the return of many of the Jacob vineyards on Jean-Michel Jacob’s retirement. Some of these were incorporated in 2022, the rest in 2023. Other Jean-Michel Jacob vineyards have gone to Régis Forey, Jean-Michel’s brother-in-law, in Vosne-Romanée.
The domaine, which has been certified organic since 2011, now covers 33 hectares with 36 different references. This simplified list – there are some single vineyard bottlings from Gevrey, Vosne-Romanée, Meursault and Puligny – also leaves out the generic wines, which comprise about 9ha together.
White
Corton-Charlemagne | Grand Cru | 0.2 | ||
Meursault | 1er Cru | Les Bouchères | 0.16 | |
Chassagne-Montrachet | 1er Cru | Abbaye de Morgeot | 0.72 | |
Chassagne-Montrachet | Champs de Morjot | 0.09 | ||
Puligny-Montrachet | 0.69 | |||
Meursault | 1.16 | |||
Santenay | 0.57 | |||
Pernand-Vergelesses | 0.7 | |||
Savigny-lès-Beaune | 1.12 | |||
Rully | 1er Cru | La Pucelle | 0.14 | |
Givry | 1er Cru | Les Grands Prétans | 0.21 | |
Givry | Les Grands Prétans | 0.65 |
Red
Corton | Grand Cru | Les Chaumes | 0.25 | |
Vosne-Romanée | 1er Cru | En Orveaux | 0.21 | |
Vougeot | 1er Cru | Les Cras | 0.14 | |
Morey-Saint-Denis | Les Champs de la Vigne | 0.44 | ||
Nuits Saint Georges | Les Damodes | 0.16 | ||
Vosne-Romanée | 1.04 | |||
Chambolle-Musigny | 0.18 | |||
Gevrey-Chambertin | 1.58 | |||
Côte de Nuits-Villages | Le Clos de Magny | 1.57 | ||
Beaune | 1er Cru | Les Avaux | 0.2 | |
Beaune | 1er Cru | Les Cent vignes | 0.39 | |
Beaune | 1er Cru | Toussaint | 0.3 | |
Aloxe Corton | 1er Cru | Les Guérets | 0.21 | |
Pernand-Vergelesses | 1er Cru | Les Basses Vergelesses | 0.81 | |
Savigny-lès-Beaune | 1er Cru | Les Vergelesses | 0.68 | |
Savigny-lès-Beaune | 1er Cru | Les Peuillets | 0.51 | |
Pernand-Vergelesses | Les Belles Filles | 0.21 | ||
Chorey-lès-Beaune | Les Bons Ores | 0.47 | ||
Savigny-lès-Beaune | 3.89 | |||
Givry | 1er Cru | Les Grands Pretans | 0.63 | |
Givry | 1.62 |
I tasted with François Lecaillon, who was previously at Domaine de la Vougeraie and then Armand Heitz. He has overseen the bottling of the 2022s which were made by his predecessor Laurence Danel. The 2022 harvest started on 28th August for 14 days, picking the reds first and then the whites. I felt they may have been a little late for one or two of the latter, especially the more classic appellations. The broad lines of Laurence Danel’s techniques (as subsequently reported to me) were to destem the reds, vinify with cultured yeasts, do a little punching down but more pumping over, and to age in very lightly toasted barrels. The 2022 whites were made by direct pressing, settling, then start fermenting in barrel with added yeasts, without lees stirring.
François has made some changes in 2023, separating the free run chardonnay juice from the press, using natural yeasts but starting the fermentation in tank before transferring to barrel. There are now some Stockinger foudres and amphoras for ageing the wines. For the reds, expect to see more whole bunch vinification and perhaps a change in the toasting regime for the barrels. After ambitious expansion in their vineyards, the domaine clearly wants also to upgrade the wines themselves, moving up a further step on the ladder from sound towards a greater sense of both precision and excitement. The base they are starting from is sound, and a tweak or two could make all the difference. Over to you, Laurent and François.
White
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2022 | Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | White |
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91-93 | |||||||
2022, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Jean Féry & FilsLocated at the northern section of En Charlemagne. A clear pale fresh colour, a very light reduction – cauliflower suggests François. Not extrovert, and in a sector where later picking is not a bad idea. Fresh citrus is quite prominent, with good tension. This Corton-Charlemagne could use more middle palate weight, but a sound example with good persistence. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 91-93 |
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2022 | Chassagne-Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot 1er Cru, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | White |
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91-93 | |||||||
2022, Chassagne-Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot 1er Cru, Jean Féry & FilsFine mid lemon yellow. An attractive reduction, gives the impression of stones with the clay. Decent weight, with energy and depth of fruit, a few yellow plums but not exaggerated ripeness. The Abbaye de Morgeot shows a good fruit-acid balance to finish. Drink from 2026-2031. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 91-93 |
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2022 | Meursault Les Bouchères 1er Cru, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | White |
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88-89 | |||||||
2022, Meursault Les Bouchères 1er Cru, Jean Féry & FilsPale lemon yellow. Here the nose shows a fresher touch alongside the ripeness. Enough fruit to start filling the mouth but ends on a flabby caramel note that again suggests the grapes were picked a little alter than the ideal. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 88-89 |
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2022 | Meursault Les Narvaux, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | White |
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88-89 | |||||||
2022, Meursault Les Narvaux, Jean Féry & FilsThe vines, purchased in 2016, are suffering from virus at the moment. Mid lemon yellow. The nose shows the heat too much. Plumper fruit behind shows the nobility of the terroir, but it could still use a little more breadth and a little more energy. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 88-89 |
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2022 | Puligny-Montrachet Les Nosroyes, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | White |
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87-88 | |||||||
2022, Puligny-Montrachet Les Nosroyes, Jean Féry & FilsThis cuvée has been made since 1993. Mid lemon yellow. Ripe pears on the nose. Just a little warmth, maybe these grapes were picked a bit too late. Then quite firm acidity. Not really hanging together. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 87-88 |
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2022 | Rully la Pucelle 1er Cru, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | White |
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90 | |||||||
2022, Rully la Pucelle 1er Cru, Jean Féry & FilsThe plot was acquired in 2016. A clean lemon colour, with some energy to the nose, white fruit, with the usual fresh apples of Rully, plenty of oak behind, currently showing a little forcefully, but the fruit will emerge. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 90 |
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2022 | Pernand-Vergelesses Les Combottes, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | White |
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89-91 | |||||||
2022, Pernand-Vergelesses Les Combottes, Jean Féry & FilsMade in 600 litre barrels, just racked. Clear mid lemon., a touch of wood with a little reduction. There is a bit of Pernand steel behind. More fruit character further back on the palate, good acidity, a light bitterness as this has not yet been cleaned up for bottling. Good long aftertaste. Promising. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 89-91 |
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2022 | Savigny-lès-Beaune La Cabotte Aimande, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | White |
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89 | |||||||
2022, Savigny-lès-Beaune La Cabotte Aimande, Jean Féry & FilsAimande is old French for Amandier, an almond tree. The 2022 combines grapes from Planchots, coming from Jean-Michel Jacob, and the Féry holding of Ez Connardises. A light green touch to the colour, quite fresh but with a suggestion of depth as well. I like what happens on the second half of the palate before a slight oatmeal touch and a little drier at the finish. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 89 |
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2022 | Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune La Combe des Amoureuses, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | White |
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88 | |||||||
2022, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune La Combe des Amoureuses, Jean Féry & FilsPale fresh colour, and immediately the nose is racier than Les Monatines, with just a light honourable reduction. Fresh apple, light citrus, definitely more character here with good length. Drink from 2024-2026. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 88 |
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2022 | Bourgogne Chardonnay Les Monatines, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | White |
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87 | |||||||
2022, Bourgogne Chardonnay Les Monatines, Jean Féry & FilsFrom an excellent vineyard below Meursault. Pale lemon yellow, a little waxy on the nose with some apple. Quite good weight, perhaps just a little additional vivacity is missing. Drink from 2024-2026. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 87 |
Red
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2022 | Vougeot Les Cras 1er Cru, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | Red |
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90-92 | |||||||
2022, Vougeot Les Cras 1er Cru, Jean Féry & FilsQuite full crimson purple. There is a generosity of deep red fruit here, less elegant than En Orveaux, but attractive. Fills the mouth very well, with enough fruit to swamp the tannins. Quite complex to finish but not as persistent. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 90-92 |
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2022 | Vosne-Romanée En Orveaux 1er Cru, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | Red |
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91-93 | |||||||
2022, Vosne-Romanée En Orveaux 1er Cru, Jean Féry & FilsPaler purple in colour. The bouquet currently shows a very light reduction, but that is not important before bottling. There is class in the fruit here, medium intensity for a 1er cru, but a fine persistence. This lingers and catches the attention. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 91-93 |
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2022 | Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | Red |
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89-91 | |||||||
2022, Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas, Jean Féry & FilsMid crimson purple. Not yet showing a lot of detail on the nose. The tannins are perhaps a little too firm for the fruit. Sound but the firmer feel slightly impedes the potential magic of this site. Drink from 2027-2033. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 89-91 |
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2022 | Nuits-St-Georges Les Damodes, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | Red |
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91 | |||||||
2022, Nuits-St-Georges Les Damodes, Jean Féry & FilsA mix of 1er cru and village classifications, half and half. An even mid crimson. The nose is stylish, not suffering from the recent bottling, with some plums mixed in to the red berry fruit. Good acidity here, a certain end of palate intensity, overall an interesting and successful Nuits-St-Georges meets Vosne-Romanée sort of wine. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 91 |
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2022 | Gevrey-Chambertin Les Crais, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | Red |
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89-91 | |||||||
2022, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Crais, Jean Féry & FilsThis plot, in the upper part of Les Crais, on very stony soil, was the first vineyard outside home territory to be purchased, in 1991. It was replanted after the winter frost of 2009/10. Mid crimson. The nose reminds me of early Au Bon Climat pinots, quite perfumed if a little vegetal with some tomato notes, showing the youth of the vines. A little youthful bitterness at the back. There is some length of flavour, so this may yet surprise on the up-side, and I am sure the vineyard will deliver more as the vines age. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 89-91 |
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2022 | Gevrey-Chambertin, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | Red |
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89-92 | |||||||
2022, Gevrey-Chambertin, Jean Féry & FilsEn Champs, En Songes, Seuvrées. A fresh but slightly darker purple, with a welcoming generosity of fruit on the nose, dark raspberry. Here the ripe fruit covers the tannins very well, with a little saline touch behind. Good length, stylish. Drink from 2026-2031. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 89-92 |
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2022 | Côte de Nuits-Villages Clos de Magny, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | Red |
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89-90 | |||||||
2022, Côte de Nuits-Villages Clos de Magny, Jean Féry & FilsRecently racked to tank. Bright mid crimson. An elegant, stylish fruit, heightened perfume with alpine strawberry and a little raspberry. Very elegant across the palate with the usual; tannins at the back. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 89-90 |
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2022 | Pernand-Vergelesses Les Vergelesses 1er Cru, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | Red |
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89-90 | |||||||
2022, Pernand-Vergelesses Les Vergelesses 1er Cru, Jean Féry & FilsMade from several plots, including Jean-Michel Jacob’s. Still in barrel, which may explain the slight reduction on the nose. Full purple colour, then the nose freshens up to show a little more elegance. Then a mix of oak and tannins at the finish. This may find more harmony before bottling in May. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 89-90 |
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2022 | Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Peuillets 1er Cru, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | Red |
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90-92 | |||||||
2022, Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Peuillets 1er Cru, Jean Féry & FilsThis is a new wine, made from Jean-Michel Jacob’s vines, vinified by the latter. Particularly healthy vines, I am told. A glowing crimson purple colour. A bundle of energy here, lifted red fruit, cherry and strawberry. Opulent and accessible. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 90-92 |
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2022 | Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Vergelesses 1er Cru, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | Red |
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87-89 | |||||||
2022, Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Vergelesses 1er Cru, Jean Féry & FilsJust from Domaine Féry fruit – Jean-Michel Jacob’s holding has gone to Domaine Forey. Quite lifted aromatics, a smoky note on top of soft cherries, a softer texture tin the mouth before some tannins to finish. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 87-89 |
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2022 | Savigny-lès-Beaune Sous la Cabotte, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | Red |
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88 | |||||||
2022, Savigny-lès-Beaune Sous la Cabotte, Jean Féry & FilsThis cuvée, first made in 2016 after the frost damage, covers Ez Connardises, Pimentiers, and Vermots. Bottled in January. Bright mid ruby colour. A little bright red fruit and a slightly spicy touch. Plenty of energy to the fruit, while the oak adds a light vanilla sheen, as well as some wood tannins. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 88 |
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2022 | Givry Les Grand Prétans 1er Cru, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | Red |
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90 | |||||||
2022, Givry Les Grand Prétans 1er Cru, Jean Féry & FilsBottled late January. A similar deep crimson colour. The nose has a little more density of dark raspberry fruit, still quite backward. On the palate there is a greater generosity of fruit, with a little more oak, a tannin or two but well integrated. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 90 |
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2022 | Givry, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | Red |
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89 | |||||||
2022, Givry, Jean Féry & FilsThe blend is made up from the village section of Grands Prétans plus Chanevarie. The Givry wines were purchased in 2019 but for the moment the vines are still worked by the previous owner. Bottled in December. Fine mid crimson. Plenty of dark red fruit energy, this has a solid depth across the palate, good acidity in balance with the tannins, and fine length. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 89 |
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2022 | Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | Red |
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87 | |||||||
2022, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Jean Féry & FilsMade from high-trained vines around the domaine, with those of Jean-Michel Jacob included. A prettier pink ruby with a more graceful bouquet than the Bourgogne Pinot Noir. A lifted fresh cherry and redcurrant fruit, again a little firm at the finish, but the fruit extends behind. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 87 |
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2022 | Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | Red |
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87 | |||||||
2022, Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Jean Féry & FilsFrom Pasquier des Chênes, below Gevrey. with old vines. Mid purple, with quite a firm nose allied to a dark fruit. There is plenty of structure, indeed firm tannins. Not an easy or early drinking Bourgogne but with stuffing. Bottled in October 2023. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 87 |
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2022 | Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Vergelesses 1er Cru, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | Red |
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91 | |||||||
2022, Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Vergelesses 1er Cru, Jean Féry & FilsFrom the upper part of the vineyard, on white marly soil. Just bottled. A pretty pale lemon colour. Perfumed yet with grip, well-judged ripeness. Green apples with a fuller white fruit behind, plenty of drive on a stony base, with excellent length. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 91 |
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2022 | Givry Les Grand Prétans 1er Cru, Jean Féry & Fils | Feb 2024 | Red |
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89 | |||||||
2022, Givry Les Grand Prétans 1er Cru, Jean Féry & FilsMid lemon colour. The nose is a little fuller than the Rully but less energetic. Rounder in texture, a little liquorice, enough acidity behind. Good wine without really feeling that this is a white wine terroir. Iron rich terroir. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Feb 2024. Star rating: 100pt score: 89 |