With 1500 hectares of vineyards, North Canterbury is New Zealand’s fourth largest wine region. Whilst over half is planted to Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris, the region has developed a deserved reputation for outstanding Pinot Noir (450 hectares) and Chardonnay (100 hectares).
The first vineyard, St Helena Estate, was established just outside of Christchurch in 1978 and whilst both the Canterbury Plains and Banks Peninsula are still home to several boutique wineries, today the region’s wineries are centred around the Waipara Valley and Waikari, both a 45-minute drive north of the city. I focussed on the wines of Waipara Valley because whilst Waikari is an exciting area, at this stage it is tiny with only two wineries; Pyramid Valley and Bell Hill. Pyramid Valley entered its Chardonnay into the tasting but Bell Hill releases its wines after several years, and so its 2023 wines weren’t available to be included.
Image: Jane tasting at Black Estate, with the picturesque Waipara scenery beyond.
But whilst I was enjoying being undisturbed to focus on the wines, had I been able to see what was happening underneath the vineyards, I’m not sure I’d have been so relaxed.
The 600km long Alpine Fault lies only 80km due west of the Waipara Valley. This is where the Australian and Pacific tectonic plates collide, the Australian plate being subducted under the Pacific one. The Alpine Fault forms the boundary and here the horizontal movement (40mm a year) doesn’t sound all that much, but it is fast by global standards. The risk of an earthquake is always present but, as this is New Zealand, no-one really gives it much thought and ‘business as usual’ is very much the order of the day.
But what does all this activity mean for Waipara and Waikari? The constant shifting and moving over millions of years has created a complex geology and the region is dominated by a series of north-east trending hills and valleys. These were formed by the tectonic compression, the landscape shifting and lifting over many millions of years. This constant movement has created and exposed over 15 different soil types though the region which classifies itself via three main profiles:
- Glasnevin soils are the dominant gravelly alluvial soils in the Waipara Basin, created by the Waipara River.
- Omihi clay loam soils that dominate the Omihi Valley.
- Waikari limestone soils created when the Waikari Basin was uplifted, revealing decomposed marine sediment.
The wine regions of North Canterbury. Image courtesy of northcanterburywines.co.nz
In respect of the climate, the Southern Alps provide protection from the prevailing westerly rains and the low-lying Cheviot Hills form a barrier to the ocean, though onshore winds help cool the region. This results in a warm, sunny climate and Waipara/Waikari benefit from almost 2,100 hours of sunshine annually. The hot northwesterly wind, which blows fiercely in the summer, dries out the canopies meaning disease pressure is low. Though there is always the risk of drought and with only 648mm of rainfall annually, irrigation can be used when needed.
Although much of New Zealand’s 2023 vintage was impacted by Cyclone Gabrielle, North Canterbury escaped relatively unscathed (the cyclone’s catastrophic effects were mainly centered around the North Island’s east coast). Waipara was unseasonably humid and warm for the first half of the summer but worries the harvest would be early were unfounded. Autumn’s settled, dry weather allowed for proper hang time resulting in ripe flavours and fine tannins.
Image: the supermoon over the vineyards
The wines were all judged blind but arranged into flights by soil type. Tasting through, it was clear there was a wide range of winemaking philosophies at play. At this stage, winemaking tended to trump site expression. With greater vine age, and the increasingly sensitive winemaking techniques, future vintages will no doubt express site more fully.
Chardonnays ranged from the more opulent, dare I say ‘old school’ examples where the ripe stone-fruit characters were balanced by sweet, spicy oak. Fleshy and delicious, and for relatively early drinking. But more adventurous producers are searching for site expression through clarity of fruit. This approach reins in bolder fruit characters and picking when ripe citrus, rather than stone-fruit flavours are desired. This creates more lithe, sleeker wines with oak playing a minor role and acidity a notable character. Wines that need time in bottle to show their best.
Pinot Noir presented in an even wider range of styles. Those off the clays were particularly impressive with depth and concentration, the hillside vineyards exposing the fruit to maximum sunlight. Though with North Canterbury’s marked diurnal range, there was no risk of the wines becoming too opulent or broad and the mineral-infused acidity gave Pinots of presence and poise.
There is a small but important global movement for wines that show authenticity but not necessarily longevity so it was interesting to taste several low intervention Pinots. New Zealand’s newer and, generalising, most likely younger wine drinkers, are enthusiastic buyers of this style of edgy, whole-bunch Pinot noir. With its proximity to Christchurch, the South Island’s biggest city, Waipara has a devoted local fan base and several of the newer producers sell their (admittedly small production) wines quickly. It was great to see producers such as Bryterlater and Lele submitting their wines.
But innovation isn’t the sole domain of newer producers. Dom Maxwell, winemaker for Greystone Wines, was keen to explore the effect of fermenting grapes within the vineyard in which they were grown. Greystone’s Vineyard Ferment Pinot Noir is hand-picked then fermented outside in the rows, fermenting in its own time via indigenous yeast. In this tasting there was a second wine, one I hadn’t tasted before. The Vineyard Ferment Block 7 Pinot Noir, is Greystone’s first foray into single block vineyard ferments. Block 7 is a 0.5 hectare block on clay soils, the vines trained via high wire to head height, which enables reduced tractor passes as sheep can perform much of the weeding and mowing work. Less use of a tractor, less resulting soil compaction, less diesel emissions can only be a good thing.
But Greystone is not the only Waipara winery concerned with treading lightly and caring for the environment. Regenerative viticulture is practised by several producers as is organic and biodynamic viticulture. As I drove up to the tasting room, the Black Estate cows were chomping away amongst the rows, eating weeds and grasses, not grapes fortunately.
Image: the Black Estate restaurant extends its commitment to the environment beyond cows in the vineyard by serving local and organic produce – who would have thought cauliflower could taste so good?
Although the North Canterbury wine industry is almost 45 years old, it is in the last 10-12 years that the region has really come into its own. Whilst there are a couple of larger companies, the real strength of the region is the vibrant community of small, premium producers. Today there is a mix of long-established family-owned estates such as Pegasus Bay and newer small producers such as Dancing Water and Vita Wines all with a desire to make the very best wines, showing both place and personality.
White
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| 2023 | Pegasus Bay Virtuoso Chardonnay | Oct 2024 | White | 92 | ||||||||
2023, Pegasus Bay Virtuoso ChardonnayThe nose opens with a powerful note of struck match, flinty reduction which slightly overwhelms the fruit. But as the wine sits in the glass, white nectarine and red grapefruit notes emerge. Vanilla bean and sweet spice oak complement the richly textured palate. This is a larger framed, flamboyant wine with a powerful, dense character, the strong reduction just clipping the finish. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Tiki Single Vineyard Chardonnay | Oct 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2023, Tiki Single Vineyard ChardonnayAn undemanding and appealing style of chardonnay. Creamy ripe peach and nectarine fruit aromas, a silky textured palate with a little creamy new oak and citrus acidity keeping the flavours bright. Drink from 2025-2026. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Mount Brown Grand Reserve Chardonnay | Oct 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2023, Mount Brown Grand Reserve ChardonnayVery taut and buttoned down. Strong edge of cucumber, yellow apple skin, fresh herbs and just a hint of wet stone. As wine sits in the glass some oak emerges but the palate remains tight and focussed. Salty, saline mineral edge. Focussed with surprisingly good length. Drink from 2025-2026. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Pegasus Bay Chardonnay | Oct 2024 | White | 93 | ||||||||
2023, Pegasus Bay ChardonnayA burst of flinty reduction leading to ripe mandarin and grapefruit. Oak adds a bran biscuit, vanilla bean note. Creamy texture and good length. Less overt than the Virtuoso and as a result a more enjoyable wine. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Main Divide Chardonnay | Oct 2024 | White | 90 | ||||||||
2023, Main Divide ChardonnayVery lifted and aromatic with red apple and nectarine. Wet stone. Vibrant and tight, this is a lighter bodied style with a faintly phenolic grip. Plenty of character and a lovely spine of acid. Vibrant and juicy. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | The Boneline Sharkstone Chardonnay | Oct 2024 | White | 93 | ||||||||
2023, The Boneline Sharkstone ChardonnaySubtle wet-stone, ripe lemon and grapefuit. Bright and focussed, saline acidity lifts the palate and there is a faint, almost tannic powdery texture. Very salivating, crisp and high toned. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Tiki Koro Chardonnay | Oct 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2023, Tiki Koro ChardonnaySoftly textured and generously fruited. Has plenty of flavour with golden peach and ripe apricot. A little melting butter and a faint note of cream cheese. Nice lift of acid offsets the fruit but this is a softer, silkier style. Generous. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | The Crater Rim Chardonnay | Oct 2024 | White | 92 | ||||||||
2023, The Crater Rim ChardonnayLovely ripeness of fruit whilst retaining a floral lift. Oak influence is subdued, just a little hint of bran biscuit. Creamy texture with some light reduction then a strong acid spine. Very juicy on the finish. Bright and focussed. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Dancing Water Chardonnay | Oct 2024 | White | 92 | ||||||||
2023, Dancing Water ChardonnayAn appealing aroma, already showing some complexity; ripe fruit, smart new oak, and the influence of malo but done in a very subtle style. Really opens up in the glass. Lovely savoury pithy edge to the fruit. Acid line keeps the palate vibrant. Plenty of poise and precision, this is a super stylish wine. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Pyramid Valley Chardonnay | Oct 2024 | White | 93 | ||||||||
2023, Pyramid Valley ChardonnayVery restrained, just a little ripe citrus, wet stone. Oak influence almost negligible. Really bright acidity runs right across the palate giving a precise character. Crisp and chiselled with an attractive mineral, wet stone chalk edge. Drink from 2026-2031. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Sherwood Estate Chardonnay | Oct 2024 | White | 89 | ||||||||
2023, Sherwood Estate ChardonnaySubtle and stylish. Precise with well defined red grapefruit and ripe lemon fruit. The palate is lithe with a strong acid spine. Bright and crisp. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Black Estate Netherwood Chardonnay | Oct 2024 | White | 94 | ||||||||
2023, Black Estate Netherwood ChardonnayPlenty of just-ripe nectarine and ripe citrus fruit. Savoury oak adds a subtle touch of nutmeg and there’s a creamy baked rice note too. Opens up in the glass to reveal plenty of intensity and weight with a very fine, powdery texture. Needs time. Drink from 2028-2032. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Mountford Estate Izumi CuvŽe Chardonnay | Oct 2024 | White | 92 | ||||||||
2023, Mountford Estate Izumi CuvŽe ChardonnayMasses of really ripe citrus. An edge of struck match reduction but with powerful fruit aromas, it works well. Creamy new oak and a firm acid spine. A dense wine but one that manages to walk the tight rope of delicious power and reduction without being too obvious. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Black Estate Home Bottom Block Chardonnay | Oct 2024 | White | 95 | ||||||||
2023, Black Estate Home Bottom Block ChardonnayTight and sinewy, with the strong, wet-stone acid spine the most noticeable feature. Flavours of red apple, meyer lemon and ripe, white nectarine emerge with time in the glass but at this stage, focussed and linear with mineral texture and precision. Takes time to open up. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Greystone Chardonnay | Oct 2024 | White | 94 | ||||||||
2023, Greystone ChardonnayGenerously fruited with white peach and red apple aromas. There’s quite a bit of new oak that contributes a sweet biscuit, vanilla spiced edge to the wine. Silky, supple palate. A riper style, very well done. Drink from 2027-2031. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Black Estate Home Chardonnay | Oct 2024 | White | 94 | ||||||||
2023, Black Estate Home ChardonnayTaut sherbet lemon and apple sorbet aromas. Acid is strong and precise giving structure and backbone and contributing a saline, minerally edge. Linear and lithe but not short on fruit. Impressively lengthy. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Deliverance Chardonnay | Oct 2024 | White | 91 | ||||||||
2023, Deliverance ChardonnayRich and generously fruited to begin, with plenty of mandarin and red grapefruit. Then the palate tightens, the acid running right across the palate, giving a tight, focussed frame. Just a little nutmeg oak on the finish. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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Red
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| 2023 | Mount Brown Grand Reserve Pinot Noir | Oct 2024 | Red | 89 | ||||||||
2023, Mount Brown Grand Reserve Pinot NoirBright translucent ruby. Fresh, pure red summer and cherry fruit. Powdery, ripe tannins with a hint of raspberry ripple, creamy oak. Medium-bodied and whilst not particularly concentrated has an appealing generous and approachable character. Alcohol 13.00%. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Quadrant Wines The Pinot .5 | Oct 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2023, Quadrant Wines The Pinot .5Pale bright ruby. Very primary, fresh bright pomegranate and tamarillo with a delicate rose petal,floral lift. A little bit of smoky oak. Background of grippy tannin. Not as intense as some but has a delightful, unforced character. Alcohol 13.50%. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Terrace Edge Pinot Noir | Oct 2024 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2023, Terrace Edge Pinot NoirAn appealing aroma with fruit in the darker spectrum; wild raspberry and morello cherry. Appealing core of sweet fruit. The tannins are quite grippy, giving a powdery dusty coating across the palate. Alcohol 13.00%. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Tiki Wines Single Vineyard Pinot Noir | Oct 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2023, Tiki Wines Single Vineyard Pinot NoirNose is quite reticent but with time in the glass, some vivid tart cherry and pomegranate fruit. Tannins quite low key and smooth and the touch of new oak adds to the complexity. A polished, appealing wine. Alcohol 13.50%. Drink from 2026-2031. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Bryterlater Ernest Pinot Noir | Oct 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2023, Bryterlater Ernest Pinot NoirSlightly cloudy. Nose has a whole bunch, leaf tobacco edge alongside ripe mulberry and rosehip fruit. Palate is very exuberant and crunchy with acid rather than tannin leading the charge. Not particularly concentrated but for immediate enjoyment, this is perfect. Alcohol 13.60%. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Sherwood Estate Pinot Noir | Oct 2024 | Red | 88 | ||||||||
2023, Sherwood Estate Pinot NoirAppealing aroma of soft red fruits with a little wood smoke and spice. Gentle ripe tannins, moderate concentration and density. Alcohol 13.00%. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Sherwood Estate Family Collection Pinot Noir | Oct 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2023, Sherwood Estate Family Collection Pinot NoirClassic, fruit-focussed pinot noir. A core of red fruits, vivid and bright to start, then some new oak adds a cedary, nutmeg edge. Fresh acidity plus powdery tannins. Hint of bacon fat. Good length. Alcohol 13.00%. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Dancing Water Pinot Noir | Oct 2024 | Red | 90 | ||||||||
2023, Dancing Water Pinot NoirA subtle nose with some soft red summer fruits. Faint nettle and fresh green herb note. Plenty of sweet fruit on the palate, silky low impact tannins. Straightforward and appealing. Alcohol 14.00%. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Pinot Noir | Oct 2024 | Red | 93 | ||||||||
2023, Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Pinot NoirAn interesting wine. The nose is a little angular and unresolved to start but with a little time in the glass opens up. Quite a bit of tannin, fruit sits in the background. Structured and firm. Quite a definite, chewy style of wine. Though there is a nice core of fruit sweetness and good length so I suspect, it just needs time. Alcohol 13.50%. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Lele Pinot Noir | Oct 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2023, Lele Pinot NoirSuper pale coloured. Very slightly hazy. Faint dandelion and burdock note. Palate is curiously appealing with masses of bunchy, crunchy sweet fruit. Edgy and vibrant, finishing with an amaro-like twist. Won’t make old bones but very cheerful drinking in the short to medium term. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Greystone Vineyard Ferment Block 7 Pinot Noir | Oct 2024 | Red | 95 | ||||||||
2023, Greystone Vineyard Ferment Block 7 Pinot NoirNose is super attractive and aromatic with lots of rose petal and red summer fruits. There is a just a touch of whole bunch which gives a cinnamon-edged note. Not the most powerfully fruited but a very pretty style. Drink from 2027-2033. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Black Estate Home Pinot Noir | Oct 2024 | Red | 95 | ||||||||
2023, Black Estate Home Pinot NoirA generously fruited wine, already showing some complexity already via beef stock, red cherry and raspberry notes.There’s a definite layer of fine, powdery tannin that harnesses the ripe, densely fruited palate. The most generous of the Black Estate pinots. Alcohol 13.00%. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Greystone Vineyard Ferment Pinot Noir | Oct 2024 | Red | 94 | ||||||||
2023, Greystone Vineyard Ferment Pinot NoirVery floral. Super pinot character – lovely red fruited aroma with hints of rose petal and lavender. Really appealing. Solid layer of tannins that as yet seem a little unresolved and chewy. But there is masses of concentration so this just needs time in bottle. Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Black Estate Netherwood Pinot Noir | Oct 2024 | Red | 95 | ||||||||
2023, Black Estate Netherwood Pinot NoirBright peppery, almost syrah-like note which is super attractive. Then some crunchy bright red-skinned apple and sweet cherry. Fragrant and lifted, with a really lovely elegance and presence. Chalky tannins right on the finish. Alcohol 12.00%. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Mountford Estate Pinot Noir | Oct 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2023, Mountford Estate Pinot NoirSo much colour, almost purple. An incredible exotic nose; cherries in chocolate plus lots of sweet spice. A really chewy style, decadently fruity, finishing with a blood orange amaro twist. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Greystone Nor'Wester Pinot Noir | Oct 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2023, Greystone Nor'Wester Pinot NoirQuite a bit of reduction at first but this disappears as the wine sits in the glass. A vivid, energetic and approachable style of pinot noir with masses of fruit, a solid layer of tannin and just a little vanilla bean oak peeping through. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Black Estate Damsteep Pinot Noir | Oct 2024 | Red | 94 | ||||||||
2023, Black Estate Damsteep Pinot NoirQuite shy on the nose. Some rosehip and pomegranate then dried lavender and rose petal. Strong spine of acidity and a dusting of fine, papery tannin. A shy reserved style of wine though one with plenty of vivid fruit. Good length Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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| 2023 | Vita Wines Nina Pinot Noir | Oct 2024 | Red | 91 | ||||||||
2023, Vita Wines Nina Pinot NoirA lively, bright pinot; strongly red fruited with rhubarb, redcurrant and then some fresh sage. Red liquorice and smoke. Palate has a very slight prickle, funky with a bright crunchy finish. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Oct 2024. |
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